So... after replacing all the vaccum lines, turbos, fuel lines pulsation and evaporator for the fuel, etc.. I finally set my idle just right to 800rpms. The car idles perfect once it starts and driving around but after the initial warm up start, say when i park at home depot and come back to start her up again it always needs a tap on the gas or two to hold the idle... what could it be?

Alex

P.S. to get the TPS just right i tighten the fast idle screw almost all the way up and closed the air screw on the TB to almost all the way.

 

I have the same problem. I'm thinking my idle bleed screw is a little too tight.

 

yeah i know... i tried loosing it but then the idle goes up to high...

 

I just put a lightweight flywheel in and now I have to do the tap sometimes.

 

I also have this issue. I have no idea why .

WE ARE NOT ALONE.

 

You can adjust the TPS by loosening the mounting screws that hold it to the throttle body and rotating it. The holes are slightly eccentric to allow for this adjustment.


I would try to adjust the idle bleed screw (maybe there is a reason mazda calls it that) open more and then adjust the idle stop screw to adjust the idle speed.


It is worth a shot.

 

Thanx resnesis I did that but it feels like im only letting abit of air in i feel like i have the air bleed screw to far in... but if i back it up more the idle goes up to 900 or more

 

What I am saying to do, is adjust the throttle plate stop so it closes more. This will allow you to open up the bleed screw and not affect the idle speed.

 

I'm pretty sure mine is the idle bleed screw i haven't adjusted after getting the car running again with the new turbo set up, but its interesting that you had problems with the flywheel...I also have a lightweight flywheel.

 

Seem like the IAT is heatsoaking from letting it parked after a drive and throwing the mixture off cause of the hot *** air it's reading, and maybe dumping more fuel?

 

mine is only when its cold.

 

Probably too lean

 

My vote is dash pot

I have some

 

A heatsoaked IAT will reduce the amount of fuel. Thats why peoples engines blow up when that happens.

 

It is possible for a heatsoaked IAT to increase fuel if the air temp compensation has been changed.

 

^ That is most certainly true. But is the cranking injection time seperate from the running injection time on the PFC?



I still think there is a problem with the idle control or the idle bleed screw, something of that nature.


Op, what EMS does the car have? PFC?

 

what's the compression like??

 

No idea...