yea if you dont do it yourself its going to hurt.

Actually if by some freak chance you find a Mazda dealer that can install the engine right, they are SUPPOSED charge about $1000(IF they go by the book) plus the reman is about $2200 from Ray. Then about $300 worth of misc gaskets and stuff and you'd be done for $3500 labor and all.

Well, actually there is the additional bad part of this.....one or both of your turbine wheels are gone so you'll need to get them rebuilt as well. That'll be another $1000 or so, its usually only about $750-$800 from BNR but since your going to need new turbine wheels it'll cost a little more. You can get by without fixing the turbos and they will still work but they will be laggy as hell....but hey, it'll still run.

Man, believe me I understand....It ******* sucks bigtime.

btw - I pulled my engine out with a chain around the garage roof rafter. I just attached a "come along" and load leveler like a engine hoist has to the chain. Worked fine. You can also rent a engine hoist for 3 days over a weekend for usually about $50

STEPHEN

 

I called the local dealers, they want 2400 for the engine and 1700 for the install. Nothing is by the book in the bay area.

I dont know that the apex seal went through my turbo's, I get full boost and its very smooth.

Also, I have seen 3 different sets of BNR's as returned by BNR after the rebuild (stage III) and would not touch them.

If I need turbo's I'll get new 99 spec turbos. I guess I'll find out.

David.

 

What was up with the BNR stage 3s when you looked at them? Why would you "not touch them"? Shoddy workmanship?

 

I'm really sorry about your car.

It definetaly sounds like you shipped a seal and now the engine is flooding when you try to start it. Why did it happen? were you tuning a lot on the dyno?

There is a good chance that you didn't hurt the turbos since you just chipped a seal.

spoautos - how do you figure that if there is no visible damage to the compressor wheels that the turbos will be laggy as hell? Aren't they fine if all the blades are there and not bend at all?


**** I wish there was something I could do. If I lived near you I would definetaly do all the work with you for free. I think you should keep the car instead of being mad at it because it's not the cars fault. But you should also do the engine rebuild right so this doesnt happen ever again and I'm not sure that a reman is the best option. I would go for the 4 year warranty at pineapple although thats a lot more expensive. If you get the reman make sure to get the 18 month unlimited miles warranty. That will get you another engine if something happens but that doesn't cover labor.

Maybe the guys around you will help you out and all get together 2 times to pull your currnt motor and reinstall your new motor

Good luck
-SNook

 

i agree with snook. if you need help dont be shy. i could use some experiance points for when the time comes for me.

 

Thanks for the support, it really means alot.

I never knew much about cars, but ever since I was a teen ager, I remember how I loved corvettes (specially the 70's early 80's models). I never lost my love of sportscars. When I was 18 I got a 1982 RX-7 and I never felt the same about any car since then. I owned miata's, drove my friends S2000, my roommates G35, etc. Last night I test drove some used cars, Mazda MX-3 with a V6 (to use as a daily driver) but realized NOTHING feels like a -7-. It makes me sick to my stomach that my engine rebuild with a streetport and 3mm seals will cost about 6K not counting any turbo damage I may have.

After my shop diagnosed my car this morning I left it there for the rebuild, Im renting a Protege and while its a nice car for its class, I feel no enthusiasm. I almost feel like my car is *PART* of my identity. Its kind of a sick/twisted feeling. My father always said "A car is just meant to take you from point A to point B." I never understood that.

Now I have to debate, Do I just get the rebuild, or do I get the 3mm seals and the street port?

BTW...my engine will disassembled and rebuilt, the housing goes to racing beat and is re-surfaced. I get a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty parts/labor. I guess thats better than getting a reman.

This is engine #3, I guess the 3rd time is the charm, Huh?

 

duplicate post.

 

The compressor wheel wont tell you anything, its in the intake. You have to look at the exhuast wheel (turbine wheel) cause thats the one in the exhaust.

Chipping a seal is definatly enough to destroy a turbine wheel. The wheels are very thin and can spin at over 100,000 rpms, you throw anything in there and it will chew the blades to pieces. A lot of people are riding around on bad turbine wheels and dont even know it. Most shops dont think to look when they swap the engine cause its really a rotary thing since pistons engines dont throw **** out the exhaust. I've bought tons of set of twins and about 50% of the time they have chewed wheels and the owners were clueless. You cant tell unless you completely remove the turbine housing to show the entire shaft and wheel.

ZeroBanger- what was the deal with the BNR's, all the ones I've ever seen looked brand new when they left his shop. He spends a ton of time on those things, I cant imagine them looking like anything but new. Hell, he even sand blasts the housings

STEPHEN

 

Stephen,

You are exactly right. I do need a new set of turbos (anyone have a set?) . Looking at the compresser wheel from the outside they look great. turn the turbo's upside down place a mirror inside the housing and use a flashlight, when the wheel was spun you can see the every single blade was chewed up.

I am getting 3mm seals after all. I saw the seals myself and see how they are much more durable, my tuner strongly recommends them so I'm gonna go with it.

Stephen, I dont want to bad mouth Brian, I dont know the guy. I know what I saw more than once. you can always PM me if you need, but I dont want to discuss this on the board, I should never have brought it up.

David.