radkins

I know something similar had been posted but since I can't search:

I has accelerating all the was through 5th and at about 120 or so and all the sudden the engine cut out. I has able to let off the clutch and get it running again (cause I was doing 100) but the car barely ran under 3K. Well, I thought I was screwed. Luckily I was right by my house so I parked it. I came back out an hour later and it was REAL hard to start, got it running and it seemed to run OK after I warmed it up. Idrove it around a little and it started acting up again. I get ful boost but it doesnt Idle very smooth, sometimes not at all, and sometimes it runs 95% as good as it used to. I was going to sort through some of the "My car wont I'dle posts" and see if anything matched my symptems.

Talek

What mods do you have? How many miles etc?

BlackR1

pop goes the weasel goes the weasel goes pop

Sounds like you blew the engine

Before someone says "CHECK THE MAP SENSOR"...I dont think the car would get full boost if the MAP got disconnected.

radkins

DP, CB, IC, CAI, M2 Stage 3 ECU. 68,000 Original miles. I have an appointment to with A-spec tuning in Chicago to have my engine replaced because I though I had a bad waterseal. After further daignosis I dont think I do so I was going to cancel the appointment. But now maybe not.

BlackR1

I've heard of a lot of people popping their engines on top speed runs... 5th gear at 120 isnt top speed... (4th goes to ~137) but at that gear and 120, you would have to have been sustaining boost for quite some time... probably pinged and had a hard detonation. Get a compression check and dont try starting the car anymore or else risk further damage

james n gantt

Try changing the spark plugs and see if the problem gets any better. My car fouled the plugs a so badley and so quickley I thought I had lost an apex seal [ie:runing fine one second the next it would barley run and the exhuast smeled like raw gas]. If you are getting boost real fast but the car seems to be boging or holding back you should check your leading coil. If it fails the car will run on the trailing plugs but wont have any power.

radkins

It seems to have all the power there except in the bog range.
I have a normal compression checker, can I get a usefull reading off of it?

TAMAatWork

That is how I blew mine. 80k on the engine. Intake, dp, cb, PFC. Was doing about 110 full throttle in 4th gear. I don't remember if it died or not but I want to say that it did a couple times before I stopped. Then at idle the car tumbled very badly and kept trying to die.

-Joseph

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a blown motor Could be other things though. Usually with a fully blown motor, it wont start unless push started, and then it will run very poorly, as in bucking and noticable lack of power. I would definantly get it checked by a rotary shop before spending the cash on a new motor

Best of luck,
scott

RX7 RAGE

iTrader: (22)

sounds like a blown motor to me. =(

jf4828

That sucks! Well, atleast you can get a port now

redrotaryrock8

sounds like a blown motor to me aswell....lol

i am sure radkins is pretty sick and tired of the above statement!

dude, my mechanic once told me that the regular compression checking devices dont work correctly on rotary engines- but i think he was bull shitting cuz he wanted me to pay him to get it done as opposed to doing it myself.

a compression test simply measures the amount of compression in the rotor and see if there are any leaks etc. so i dont understand why a regular compression checker wont work- someone please correct me.

jeff48

In order to use a regular compression tester you have to remove the valve otherwise it holds peak pressure and you will be unable to determine if any or all your apexes are gone. After removing the valve (use a tire valve removal tool) pull the plug wires and disconnect the fuel pump (pull the fuse). Attach the gauge to the trailing plug hole. Have a friend turn the engine over and look at the needle, if the motor is good you will see three equal (over 90) bounces for every rev of the motor. If you see no needle bounces you blew at least two apexes, if you see one needle bounce per rev you blew one seal.

Check the rear rotor first, its easier to get to and most often the one that blows. If it is gone, no need to check the front----its rebuild time.

Here's hoping you see three bounces on both rotors

Jeff

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Make sure your boost sensor hose is plugged in. The little black box on the firewall drivers side.

BoostedRex

Unfortunately it sounds like a blown motor to me as well. Sorry to hear that. I hope that you just fouled a plug though. Much cheaper to replace plugs than rebuild. But it's true, if you rebuild at least you can port your engine now. I love my streetport. Laterz.

Zach