OK, car has been off the road for a year and a half now. Removed the motor and installed a whole new setup, put everything back and now the car won't start. I've tried everything I can think of to get it to start and nothing. Exhaust and wastegate pipes both smoke and car backfires and everything. Checked wiring and it looks good to me, relays are working, I have 45psi of fuel, spark I believe, HKS TwinPower, tried deflooding it, etc. Can't think of why it isn't starting so I'm posting this video and asking for help. Any suggestions for things for me to check?

Mods:
-Borg Warner S366 .91 a/r
-Full Function Fuel Rails with ID1000 primaries and ID2000 secondaries
-HKS 60mm GT wastegate
-Tial Q BOV
-Bosch 044 pump in-tank
-Aeromotive FPR
-AEM EMS v1 PnP
-HKS TwinPower w/ stock coils
-NGK BUR9EQ spark plugs
-AEM Water Injection not hooked up yet.

 

Another thing, the radio and dome lights don't work anymore but everything else seems to. Checked fuses and they all seem to be fine.

 

It sounds like the battery is nearly dead. Did you try jump starting/trickle charging? What deflooding method did you use? It sounds like it's almost trying to start, but not quite catching. What's your battery voltage when cranking?

 

Start with a compression test.

 

It's being jump started in the video. My battery has been sitting in the car for a year and a half through two winters so I'm going to get another one for sure, just figured with the jump it should be fine to start up. Didn't check voltage to be honest, I'll do that when I get home.

I pulled the spark plugs and egi and cranked it until I didn't smell anymore gas. Cleaned the brand new spark plugs afterwards and put everything back in.

Banzai I did a compression test right before I took the engine out, it had between 95 and 100 on all faces. Car ran fine before I took everything out, someone just broke into the car and stole stuff so I decided to finally do the single setup I've been wanting.

 

I am not hearing even compression pulses in your video. An engine sitting for a year and a half can easily have stuck seal, every Spring we get engines shipped in that have carbon locked seals just from sitting for 6 months.

An engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run.

 

When I'm turning the engine it has compression like crazy but I'll go and get it tested again. My only thing is that it has started recently but the car won't start again, it gets close but not quite there. I also had wd40 and oil in the engine and would turn it from time to time like my friend who builds engines told me to do. It wasn't 100% just sitting around without ever turning.

 

Is the fuel system a new install? I suspect too much fuel or not enough. Just something else to look into.

 

Yeah its brand new. New rails, injectors, new lines, new FPR, new ECU, new everything. It smells extremely rich and I get occasional backfiring when trying to start it up. But fuel pressure is only 43psi.

I suspected maybe something like that and AEM sent me what they said should be a good startup map for my setup but it smells exactly the same almost. No fuel leaks when I run the pump through the diagnostic box.

 

Checked voltage and when jumped I have 14v standing and 11v when cranking.

 

What map did they send you? the stock twins map?

If so you need to go in and set up all your mods, there are a bunch of wizards you need to go through before it will start. it could be the Throttle Position Sensor, there is a wizard for that. I have the same EMS as you and it all needs to be setup before it will start...unless it was a completely stock 7.

 

I have id injectors and have no idea how to set them up, they're not on the list.

 

The AEM ECU is nothing like the PFC where you can just plug it in and start the car up. Even though AEM sent you a "startup map" it may not be set properly to your mods as stated above.

 

Well update, I'm getting pretty weak spark to the trailing plugs and none to the leading plugs. Flooring the gas while cranking and my leading plugs have no gas smell or residue whatsoever on them. They still look brand new.

 

Try removing the HKS twinpower and try again.

 

One thing that caught me out.

Check your voltage at ecu, i had 14v healthy battery but only 10v at pfc, and on commander, even while getting jump started. Ecu will not fire the car up with less than 10.5v instead just leaving it cranking.

My issue was a dodgy earth at pfc

 

Is the 10.5 while cranking or not? I ask because I'm having the same issue, and while cranking my voltage at the PFC drops to 9ish volts, and 12v key on engine off.

 

My car was showing 10v pretty much all the time even with jump leads on from a car @ 3k revs. I found a poor connection at the ecu and straight away had 13.1v with key on and 14.5v on alternator. Never had a problem since, I also think this had an adverse affect on my solenoid operation supplying 10v or less instead of 12v+

 

I have 14v while car isn't cranking and it goes down to 11v when cranking, that's pretty healthy so I ruled that out. Going to test the coils this weekend and see if that's the real issue.

 

OK, checked the coils and they test out fine.

Checked Crank Angle Sensors and they test out fine.

I smell fuel and get 45psi to the FPR but I'm not seeming to get fuel to the motor, plugs are all still dry no matter how much gas I give the car while cranking.

Looking like I'm going to pull the injectors and see if they spray, if not then I know why we're not starting.

 

Check crank sensor air gap to reluctor wheel. Do you have a laptop to connect to the ems to see if its picking up rpm while cranking?

 

Yeah I have a laptop I can connect, where would I check for this?

 

also, even though the battery may be being jumped, it could have a dead cell in it or the grounds may not be very good.

get a new battery of have that one tested and use some dielectric grease when you reinstall the ground.

and check your other grounds in the same manner, use the grease and reinstall.

 

Im not familiar with the AEM software, but there should be a main data page that will display RPM. You should see a consistant 250rpm+ while the engine is turning over.

 

check and make sure your CAS harness plugs are not swapped.