I have done my clutch before so i know how to drop the tranny and what not so this time the only variable that i've changed is i got the ACT lightweight flywheel and counterweight put on.

it goes in about half way and then just stops, i've tried everything to get this damn thing back on. i've taken the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel off probably 5 times now to figure it out.

i've put the clutch and bearing on the shaft of the new tranny to see if the input shaft was bent, it's good.

i've jacked up the front of the motor to get it to lean back a little more so it would be easier.

it's been 2 days and i still can't get the damn thing in there. it gets so close then it's like FOOLED YOU!

the bearing that's on the flywheel shaft i didn't replace though, that might be the culprit but the clutch alignment tool goes in there so easily so i didn't think was it.

anybody else have any ideas or want to help?

i'm in washington, dc

 

how long is your clutch alignment tool vs the input shaft? its possible that it could be getting caught farther up inside. when we did the tranny swap on my friends fc it kept getting caught till we pulled out the throwout bearing then it slid right in.

 

i had the same problem.. and i had 2 clip the clutch into place while holdin the tranny upand then she went rite on.. i dont know much about them.. but i just work on my own and that the problem i had..

 

shake it like a dirty hooker

 

u can always use the bell housing bolts to draw the tranny to the rear iron if your that close.

 

when we put the new tranny in my buddies fc we had to have someone use a prybar to twist the engine kinda like jacking the front up, but u get alittle more umph! out of it haha

 

You probably need to line the clutch disc up better. I don't even use those plastic alignment tools. Measuring from the disc's edge to the outer teeth of the flywheel is the best method I've come up with aside from a spare input shaft stuck in there. You measure at different points and adjust the disc until they are close to eachother. It's easier with the engine on a stand, but it's doable with the engine in place.

Do you mean the pilot bearing?

 

yea yea mr specifics haha. the pretty silver piece of ****. never was a tranny guy. that was his thing. i just provided the muscle.

 

i don't want to do that for fear of stripping the threads that are on the engine

 

i think tomorrow i'm going to replace the pilot bearing, that's the only other variable i'm seeing here

i got another new one when i bought the clutch but didn't need to replace it so i'm gonna try that tomorrow

BTW: i am using that silly plastic alignment tool and it seems like an exact replica of the input shaft, same length and all but it's plastic

 

Yeah, that's the idea behind it. The problem is that it just LOOKS the same. If you put an actual input shaft in there it would have much less play.

What happens is that the disc is slightly off axis from the pilot bearing/centerline of the eccentric shaft because of the plastic tool's poor tolerances. When you try to slide the transmission in there, the input shaft machined to exact tolerances, inflexible, and held straight by the transmission and input shaft bearing assy. The tip of the input shaft will then slide into the pilot bearing, but the splined part won't go through the disc's hub without forcing the clutch disc over.

 

I keep some long studs ( 8" long ) that I use to thread into the two alignment sleeved threaded bosses. There is one on each side of the engine rear iron. What you do is thread one into each hole until the stud has full thread engagement, THEN lift the transmission into place and begin insertion keeping in mind to align the studs up with the two corresponding bolt holes on each side of the Trans. By this time the input shaft is meshing with the clutch splines, you should have a stud passing thru the side bolt holes. This provide perfect alignment. Push it on it from there.



Later

 

even when you use the plastic alignment tool, I have always notice that there is a small amount of play (up, down, left, right) try to alignment the clutch disc in the center of that play you feel before tighten the pressure plate bolts.

 

ok guys, i finally got it back on; after 3 days of trying to force it

so i took the clutch disc out and slid it on the old tranny's input shaft and it serious fit like a glove, slid riiight on

i took it to the "newer" tranny's input shaft and you kinda had to like plat with it to get it on so i looked at the input shafts splines and what do you know...there are a couple of little pieces of that have some jams in them so i took a triangle file and filed in between some of the splines for a while

after that i took the clutch disc and BOOM, slid right on just the old one

put everything back together and shook the tranny like a 2 dollar hooker and just slid right in

now i need to get some neo synthetic gear oil and i'll be set.