So, the car is running like a Honda right now, 167 hp at the wheels with a single turbo and power FC. From what I can tell the problem is my TPS. Using the commander I found I could either get my WOT in spec or me idle in spec, but not both at the same time. I even tried a different TPS with the same result. I set it so that neither are in perfect spec, but very close. Consequently now every time I come to a stop my car dies unless I'm in neutral. This happens weather the lights/ac/radio are on or not. I've cleaned mi Idle Control Valve and even tried replacing it with no change. ANy help would be great. Also I am running extremely rich, 11.1 at idle and 9.8 at open throttle. I tried pulling back a little on the fuel through the FC but the change only lasts for a short time. The car ran great when I bought it back in January, but for some reason one day it decided to start acting this way.

Oh, and perhaps I should mention, when I first take the car out, at the first two or three stop lights the idle will hunt/fluctuate until it decideds to hang on at aroun 11k rpm.

 

Okay so I have some numbers for you all to look at

the MAP
1.61 v with hose connected (spec 1.3 - 1.6)
2.61 v with hose off (spec 2.38 - 2.78

The TPS
AT THE PLUG
Top (green with red stripe) wire
Closed - 1.21 v (spec .75 - 1.25)
WOT - 4.99 v (spec 4.8 - 5.0)
Bottom (black with green stripe) wire
Closed - 0.5 v (spec 0.1 - 0.7)
WOT - 4.2 v (spec 4.2 - 4.6)

AT THE PFC COMMANDER
VTA1
Closed - 0.49 v (spec 0.1 - 0.7)
WOT - 4.18 v (spec 4.2 - 4.6) NOT IN SPEC
VTA2
Closed - 1.20 v (spec 0.75 - 1.25)
WOT - 4.97 v (spec 4.8 - 5.0)

Any thoughts?

 

Check the adjustement of your throttle cable! It should have a little play in it when the car is fully warm! Also check if something alter the full course of your throttle plate and be sure that your fast idle cam is completly retracted when the car is fully warm. Since you try 2 tps i think that your problem is somewhere around your throttle body

Good luck!

 

Will check those things today

 

the TPS is kind of a bastard, i'd get the engine hot, and adjust it in the commander until its in spec, and then see if its happy.

for what its worth i set mine and it promptly idled on one rotor (decel fuel cut), so i just tweaked it until it ran right...

 

I did do the adjustments when the car was warmed up, but I just cant get all the numbers in spec at the same time. One of them will always be a little off.

 

Has the O2 sensor ever been changed?

 

O2 sensor doesn't talk to the power FC, but I am running a brand new AEM Failsafe O2 gauge

 

In that case, disregard my post.

 

No worries.

 

Thermal wax while cold



At running temp

 

Might sound silly, You have set the thermal wax first yes?? Before you try to set the tps?
I find it better to remove the tb from the car and set every thing to 0. You can heat the thermal in boiling(before its boiled) water then drop it in real fast to set it, the tb should be fully closed at running temp
Then screw the idel screw full in then out 2 turns. I find this works for me

 

I do need to check the idle set screw. I also think I need to cut the 4 wires for the PFC since it doesn't look like it was done.