Stevey629

well, doesn't the primary turbo at least spool somewhere between 0 RPMS and 3 RPMS? from what I understood it does, but I dont mean Im going to boost on it hard, just a say 50% throttle gives me very little push, if any. it feels like I have about 90 horsepower to the ground. Way way slower than before I had my motor rebuilt. Boosting on it is the last thing I want to do, but if it wont boost at all, isn't that an even bigger possibility for conern while breaking in the new motor? I gotta figure it out somehow.

and about that wire, does it go to the driver side of the pan? underneath it or something? and just that wire, there isn't another one?

lastly, what is the cause for the oil? Im not even sure its oil, but it sure as hell looks like it. My turbos are rebuilt and have around 500 miles on them, and were in working order from what I believe before the motor went. I need to get a boost gauge and compression check I supppose then. Is there anything I can do in the mean time?

spurvo

Stevey, here's a pic of the sensor's location and it's associated wire.

It still sounds to me like you are having boost issues. I'd bet your turbos are just fine, but somewhere in the control for the turbos there is a problem. Won't know until you have a boost gauge. Mild attempts at boosting should be fine if only used for diagnostic purposes. You don't want to see if you have a perfect 10-8-10, or anything even like that. All you want is a gentle throttle push to see if the thing will boost at all.

Stevey629

are the wastegate plugs reversed? I understand that there are two plugs that look identical that control the wastegates for the turbos located under the UIM, that may be reversed. Is this a possiblility? are my cars symptoms akin to something like this reversal?

spurvo

If I recall correctly, switching the wastegate and prespool solenoids only limits the boost to 7-8 psi, but still allows boosting "normally" which it sounds like you aren't.

Got boost gauge?

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

In your other thread on the same topic ...myself and a couple others offered the idea that you are running a street ported engine on the Stock ECU, your engine will not be smooth in the upper revs or even climbing there under load. True your engine builder may have said that you can run it on a stock ECU but ask around and most will tell you otherwise. I don't mean to beat a dead horse so to speak but I believe part if not the whole problem is stemming from getting a steet ported motor with no other mods. ( No other mods that I remember from the last thread on 11/22/03)

Stevey629

I know what you mean, and I dont mean to be redundant and repost the same thing over and over again...but I have yet to find any definitive answer, but then again, I would need a diagnostic for my boost, i.e. a boost gauge, and maybe a compression check.

I dont doubt that a power FC or similar system will make my car run much better, but I simply dont have the cash to dump into the thing, let alone the cash for tuning at this point. So, having said that, I am trying to work around it essentially, trying to find out whether or not it actually is the ECU, timing issues with ignition, injector duty, etc. etc. I cant imagine that this is ECU related. I want to say that this is something mechanical, just because of how it still has problems starting sometimes, is really rough and sputtery when warming up, and has that hesitation at 3k, and when warm feels overall very unresponsive. Would adding an ECU really fix the vibrations, and the low boost (from what it feels like)?

If someone can explain to me WHY a stand alone unit would be helpful because of my port job, please chime in here. I know its necessary, I just wanna know the mechanical reason.

basically, my new rebuild feels about the same as when I first blew the motor. My motor just got sluggish, and sputtery. Right when I felt the coolant seal go in the back rotor housing, it just felt like someone pushed my clutch in and it just slowed down, and the idle got rough. Well, I drove it home, 1-2 mins away from home, and it felt slow. DUH. What Im gettin at here, is that the new rebuild feels about as fast as it was with a blown coolant seal, only my motor is no longer burning coolant, and isnt giving me the overheat light.

Stevey629

bump