I'm in the process of redoing my vac hoses, replacing the silicone with viton, and checking all the solenoids and check valves. While I'm at it, I've eliminated the AWS, double throttles, throttle body coolant lines, and the EGR valve, and have blocked them off with plates from 2751 Engineering.

I've just removed the Air Contol Valve to access a few lines. I know that the valve diverts air to either the main cat, or vents it to the air box (right?). Could you not just eliminate the ACV altogether, and plumb the air pump directly into the main cat? Air pumped into the cat must be a good thing for emmissions, no? I need to keep the air pump/cat to meet emmissions testing here in NY.

What do you think?

 

I do the same thing every year for emissions. It works really well too. You get lots of air in the exhaust to tone down the emissions

 

So, I assume you've blocked-off the ACV, and removed the 2 pipes that go to the LIM and the ACV? How did you plumb to the air pump?

BTW, assuming that is your white FD, which wheels are fitted? They look great!

 

Hmm... I'd like to know how this is done in detail. More info please!

 

just plumb the airpump to the cat, people do it all the time. It's actually really easy. Just don't delete the check valve piece near the cat.

 

Is that check valve located in the hard line from the LIM down to the cat?
Also, on the pump, I assume that one pipe is intake, and the other outlet- any idea which is which?

 

It also pumps air to the exhaust ports to feed the precat. Details about the ACV start on page F-115 of the FSM.

 

They are Advan Kreuzer X's 18-8 18-9

 

are there any ill affects of deleting the acv?

 

if anyone could show pics ...on how to it would be very helpful because i have the same question and had the same thread few days ago

 

are you looking for a picture of what the acv looks like?

 

no i was looking for pics on how to do it.

 

The air injection would not operate properly and the ability to pass emissions tests would be compromised.

 

Best thing would be download and review the procedure in the FSM. The air control valve is bolted to the bottom side of the UIM toward the back iirc. You'll need a blocking plate in order to fill the void once it is removed.

 

the acv is actually on the lim at the top on the rats nest side.

I don't much care about emissions but will the car run well after removing the acv?

 

I've never really seen anyone keep the airpump and remove the ACV. To be honest, I don't know why you would bother. Either keep them both or remove them both...

I would imagine it would exhibit the same idle issues on stock based ECU's (i.e. the need to increase the idle to around 1100 rpms).

 

I don't see why it should be a problem... essentially you're rigging the factory airpump to a cat just like you would an auxiliary electric airpump to the cat when you've got a single turbo.

Now, it might have idle issues w/ a stock ECU, but I don't run with the O2 on my PFC anyway.

 

I'm sorry, I should have clarified that my airpump has already been removed and the cat with a midpipe. I have the manual boost controller set up as outlined by damian. I just had to remove the engine/transmission to fix a broken 5th gear sync and thought i'd go ahead and get rid of all emissions and replace all the vacuum lines with silicone ones.

Thanks for the input.

 

Chuck Westbrook!

 

its compulsory to block off the ACV for the fuel system upgrade right?
or could you just upgrade the fuel system without blocking the ACV?

 

If you don't require a new fuel rail, you can keep the ACV (i.e. enlarging stock injectors).

 

since the stock fuel rail can not take more than 850cc injectors i bought new fuel rail.(secondary and primary) with 850cc injectors for primary and 1680cc for secondary. If the ACV is not blocked. what happens?