Hi,

I'd appreciate if you could help me.

They are all perfect except the damages shown in the pictures.

That's my first rebuild ever, feel free to tell me some advices.




Rotor




Housing




Iron

 

all trash IMO, sorry man

 

I wouldn't , you will probably lose compression on that housing , have you check the specs of the rotor ?

With a amount of piece missing on one face , it'll probably need to be rebalance to be proper , that's if everything else is in specs.

 

You can definitely reuse all of them pieces. Just not as a engine but they will make great display pieces. The rotor can probably be reused if it were the last one available (it's not) but you will need to make sure it is still within spec like stated and it will probably create a hot spot where it is gouged. You will be better off finding new ones or new to you used ones.

 

Alright thanks guys, I'll look for some replacement parts then!

 

Call Derwin Tuning in Terrebonne. I spoke with him this week and he told me that he's got a used but good housing for $490 CDN for an FD. I didn't buy it because I found two new ones.

Don't even bother with Japanese Engine importers. I've been looking for a replacement and talked to five or six importers in Montreal over the last week. I got them to send me videos of them compression testing their 13B engines. All the engines showed compression between 30Psi and 60Psi when tested properly with their cheap compression testers. Only one importer had an engine with 90Psi but they wanted $4000 for it and you might as well buy a new one if you're getting into that price range.

 

The rotor housing and iron are trashed. For the rotor check the clearances. Minor imperfections in the face won't hurt anything.

 

That's what I thought IRPerformance but I will still replace it. Won't throw it at the garbage though.

May I show you two more pictures guys?


The tips of this rotor seem to be a bit stretched. Everything is within specs. This tip is the worst one.



This center iron is so smooth on both surfaces, but I get a maximum distortion of 0.08mm. Garbage/keep for future resurfacing?

 

Check the clearance between the rotor and a new apex seal with a feeler gauge. If its out of spec or inconsistent, replace the rotor. You can't measure the iron plate that way. You need a tool to hold the dial indicator and slide it across the surface. The Mazda sst is expensive. As I recall Pineapple Racing sells an inexpensive one.

 

Sorry about the delay - I got called to work away from home (on a ship) until last week. Now I'm 100% with the rebuild project.

The guy from this famous rebuild video (36:00) uses the dial indicator just like me:

 

at the very least dig out the chunk of apex seal and then reassess the rotor, deburring any sharp edges that might create hot spots. it's still not advisable on a high power engine over 350whp but for stockish applications the rotor might still be usable.

 

I'll definitely keep that rotor for a future build.

What do you guys think of that 0.08mm distortion? FSM recommends 0.04mm and less.

Thanks!