So I did a search and all I came up with is people who asked this question, but never got a simple exact answer. I've got some ES-12a here and the conversion kit, but I was curious which nipple is for the low side hose? The one closest to the fender wrapped in thick foam, or the one closer to the engine? I'd hate to put the low side adapter on the high side tube, or are they different sized threads and that's impossible any way?

 

The low side is always the larger diameter hose. Pretty easy to find.

 

Thank you

KCCO

 

For anyone else who reads this down the road, don't worry about this, the low side adapter will only fit onto the low side nozzle and same for the high side. All charged up now with ES-12 and blowing cold.

 

Keep us posted on how the ES-12 works.

 

Faily damn cold, but I think I may have leaks. I put stop leak in, but I might have to replace the condenser and compressor. But it was pretty cold yesterday and I'm socal

 

As cold as R-12?

 

Not sure, my freon was empty when I bought the car. Although I've noticed the AC is nice and cold when I'm driving, but not so when at idle. I'm guessing I need to replace the compressor and/or condenser?

 

Check rad fans and ducting (undertray); also refrigerant charge level (as you suspect you are leaking).

The system cannot cool if there is not enough airflow over the condenser.

Not likely a compressor or condenser problem, per se.

 

Note: If you do need more BBQ Gas in your system, you need to evacuate and recharge. BBQ Gas is made up of two different gases, which will leak out at different rates. If the blend of the two gases isn't exactly as it should be, then your pressures will be out of whack. Evacuating and recharging ensures the balance of the two is correct.

 

In practice, fractionation has not proved to be much of a problem with HC refrigerant in a working system. And as it turns out the 'mix' ratio isn't that critical so you generally don't need to evac and recharge. You can top of the charge several times before you need to release the charge and start over. If no air has entered the system (read: always had some refrigerant pressure in it) you don't need to evacuate at all; you can simply release the gas to ambient pressure and install the new refrigerant--this works because there is not enough refrigerant remaining in a discharged system to upset the balance.

The point at which the refrigerant may need to be replaced because the blend is out of whack is when you observe persistent excessive high side pressures. Generally, the es12 will run at slightly lower pressures than R12 and much lower [high side] pressures than R134a. The exact charge level isn't super critical either, especially in systems with accumulators or receivers (such as ours). I charge in just like R12--till the sight glass just clears under test conditions per service manual. If you can get down to about 30 or 35# on the low side then you're not overcharged. Of course, the foregoing assumes a properly operating system in good condition and that has not been overcharged with oil.