a/c cooling question
08-25-06, 02:27 PM
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a/c cooling question
ok. i have a 93 touring fd. it has had the upgraded refridgerant(sp) system installed. I read online that with the new system, it will blow cool but not cold. I currently live in west palm beach florida. It is hot as **** and it does not do any good as far as cooling is concerned. Im better off keeping the windows down. I was thinking about getting it re-charged. Is that going to make a difference? Thanks in advanced, also if you guys have any suggestions.......please feel free.
08-25-06, 03:55 PM
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Something's wrong. While it's true R-134a is a less efficient refrigerant than R-12, the design of R-134a systems compensate for that and your system should be blowing 40 -42 degrees at the vents. Mine does. I've measured it with an A/C thermometer. (The 134a system in the FD has a different condenser, for one thing.)
So, either your system is leaking, or not fully charged, or there's something else that isn't compatible or up to par.
So, either your system is leaking, or not fully charged, or there's something else that isn't compatible or up to par.
08-25-06, 03:59 PM
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If you didn't convert the whole system to accept the 134a refrigerent (especially the condensor and compressor) I would take it to an a/c shop...get a good vacuum pulled on it, and if they show no leaks, recharge with the stock refridgerent, R12. It is more expensive but R12 was what the a/c system was designed around in the 93 and 94 FD.
134 should still provide you with cooler air, if you still have a good charge on the system, I would check to make sure the fans are coming on at the appropriate time and speed. Also it is incredibly important to have the underpanel on the car, to push air through the condensor and radiator. If you dont have that...get one immediately!
134 should still provide you with cooler air, if you still have a good charge on the system, I would check to make sure the fans are coming on at the appropriate time and speed. Also it is incredibly important to have the underpanel on the car, to push air through the condensor and radiator. If you dont have that...get one immediately!
08-25-06, 04:05 PM
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i didnt do the conversion myself. It was told to me that it was done b4 my purchasing of the car. And like I said, im better off leaving the windows down than turing on the a/c. its just so ******* hot and humid here that its starting to bother me that I get all dressed up for work, only to arrive there sweaty n nasty.
08-25-06, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
i didnt do the conversion myself. It was told to me that it was done b4 my purchasing of the car. And like I said, im better off leaving the windows down than turing on the a/c. its just so ******* hot and humid here that its starting to bother me that I get all dressed up for work, only to arrive there sweaty n nasty.
Sounds like someone did a half *** conversion job. Either that, or your system isn't working because of one of the more usual problems, such as a leak.
Cozmo is right....going back to R12 would be a good strategy, assuming you don't have 134a equipment that will prove to be incompatible with it. Some idiot may have simply put 134a in your system without doing a proper conversion.
In any event, take it to a good specialist and tell him as much as you know. He should be able to sort it out and also do a simple pressure / leak test to tell what's what.
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08-25-06, 05:02 PM
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For R12 AC FDs, change the two valves to R134 valves, vacuum and refill with AUTOCOOL.
http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/
It is better than 12 or 134 refrigerant.
http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/
It is better than 12 or 134 refrigerant.
08-26-06, 02:40 AM
#10
.....It is better than 12 or 134 refrigerant.
R134 is a much smaller molecule than R12, it requires different sealing materials and it will find any leaks you have. Also, once a chlorinated refrigerant (CFC's, HCFC's) has been run in an A/C system, a chloride residue is formed inside that cannot be easily removed. This residue will react with other substances in the system (esp. moisture) and attack the PAG/POE type of oils that R134 requires. Note that just changing the refrigerent from R12 to R134 does not constitute a conversion--at least not for very long.
The bottom line: If your system still has mineral oil in it, then you can easily change back to R12, if you want to incure this expense. Otherwise, get the HC refrigerent suggested above or in my link below. You will save yourself countless headaches.
I assume of course that your A/C system is not otherwise messed up.
http://autorefrigerants.com/
Good luck.
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