A/C Blower Rebuild w/ Photos
#26
They weren't as sticky as I would have liked, but they held on okay on the metal flaps. If I remember correctly they didn't stick as well to the plastic ones. I ended up using, I think, JB weld to secure it.
I should have mentioned this earlier but if I were to do it again, I wouldn't use that same stuff for the flaps. It's a bit too hard and dense for the application as well. I'd try to find something a little softer and stickier. If your unit is still apart, try something else.
#28
Senior Member
Sorry for the bump but I would like to confirm the thickness of the foam used. I found that the 5/32" natural gum foam was the best thickness and material I found. I tried about $150 in other foams and they were all too thick or too stiff or too thin to work properly without causing undue stress on the motors.
One 10' x 4"(93625K184) and one 10' x 6" x 5/32" (93625K194)are plenty(softest avail). For the molding 1/2 x 1/4" (8709K42) thick strip of 10ft works well(won't be gum). Go for the softest that mcmaster carr has.
To remove the old foam, lacquer thinner works INCREDIBLY well. It removed everything and didn't damage the metal or plastic. After everything has dried I highly suggest using a thick tacky gel adhesive to get the foam to stick to the plastic pieces. They are not smooth and the adhesive backing doesn't stick too well to the plastic. For the metal it's fine.
One 10' x 4"(93625K184) and one 10' x 6" x 5/32" (93625K194)are plenty(softest avail). For the molding 1/2 x 1/4" (8709K42) thick strip of 10ft works well(won't be gum). Go for the softest that mcmaster carr has.
To remove the old foam, lacquer thinner works INCREDIBLY well. It removed everything and didn't damage the metal or plastic. After everything has dried I highly suggest using a thick tacky gel adhesive to get the foam to stick to the plastic pieces. They are not smooth and the adhesive backing doesn't stick too well to the plastic. For the metal it's fine.
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rx8volks
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09-01-15 10:46 PM