pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Hello, my car have some problem:
During hard brake the car turn right
and during high speed looks unstable i have to make a lot of light correction left right left right etc etc
Time to replace all bushes.
I already changed :Lower Control Arm Middle Bearing, Lower Control Arm Outer Bearing, Upper Control Arm Outer Bearing
But i still have some problem.
Did you ever eard powerflex or super pro??????? (you may find it on ebay)

Any suggestions? some delar sell these things at a good price? because OEM cost a lot of money.
Thanks
Pietro

caredden

iTrader: (148)

If you have decided to replace your bushings, there is a vendor on the forum that does carry powerflex...

https://www.rx7club.com/jkl-engineering-271/new-bushings-arrived-840814/

Also, if you have not done your pillow ***** then I would suggest changing those as well. For those, I would recommend OEM and purchase them from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda 888.533.3400

Spend some time in the suspension forum researching this as well.

Good luck.

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

ive been chasing a similar problem since i got my car. fast accel or hard brake in the straights feel "loosey goosey". turns feel great, its just straight line stuff. sound like your problem?

i put in a FULL superpro kit and it did NOT fix the problem. might want to save your money and look into other stuff.

things ive tried that have NOT worked:
wheels and tires
springs
rotors and brakes
alignment x2
full superpro kit
new pillow *****

everything made the car feel better but i still dont think i tracked down the problem. if you figure it out send me a PM

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Ok, thanks for suggestions,
Looks like we have the same problem BlouZbee... we keep in contact for news, i will let you know what i try and if it work

no_more_rice

Check wheel balance, tire pressures, and tire condition - you may have had a counterweight fall off....my car is very smooth to 120+

Put good tires on the car, don't go cheap. I'm going Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 next time (I like them on the S2000).

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Air pressure in the tires is the #1 reason for the car to feel weird on accel and braking. Even down by 10 psi you'll get some weird effects.

Dale

dis1

Check your calipers and wheels bearings.

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Ok i Changed a lot of bushes and i have still to change 2 pillow ball, also i have a great improvment but still not going perfect.
Do You have any news? or suggestion?

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Have you checked your front wheel bearings/hub?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=hub

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Really Thanks, i'm planning a pit stop to check it, hope it will be mya solution.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

In my past experiences, this could be caused by a few different factors:

1. Calipers
One or more of the pistons in the front brake calipers could be stuck or not moving freely enough to apply consistent brake pressure. Remember that the FD front calipers are 4 piston calipers so if one of the rubber piston seals degraded and/or rust or gunk is on the piston sides, the pistons will not apply pressure equally and the car may not track straight under braking.

2. Alignment and bushings

Under braking, the front of the car is loaded from weight transfer and the rear is unloaded. If you read the making of the RX7 book, they state that the bushings are designed to deflect slightly to increase and decrease toe at the front and rear of the car to stabilize braking.

If the alignment is off at the front OR rear, you will experience this kind of sway. You would be surprised how inaccurate many alignment shops are. Even though the print out of the alignment settings may say that things are in alignment, the calibration of their equipment may be incorrect so the print out is incorrect.

If the bushings are worn, they can deflect more than originally designed and also cause instability under braking. IIRC, the key bushings to this are the front lower control arm bushing (particularly the big rear one which I believe is fluid filled like the diff bushings) and the rear toe links.


Story time:
When my 130k mile front lower control arm bushings were worn, it was difficult for the alignment guy to precisely align the front end of the car. I knew him so I went back a few times in a short period of time to test and diagnose. We would align the car then I'd come back a few weeks or months later and the front would be out of alignment again. Prying on the bushings while on the rack would show a lot of movement. After replacing those bushings, the car felt much much better. More accurate steering and much more solid under braking.




Now this sounds more like an alignment issue than a bushing issue. If you are just cruising along and the car feels unstable, the bushings are not loaded. However, if worn bushings and/or inaccurate alignment machine caused a bad alignment then you have some cause and effect. You may also want to check the tie rod ends for wear/play and check that the inner tie rods on the steering rack are OK (I have no idea how to check that).

Remember that stiffer springs, stiffer valved shocks, wider tires, low profile tires will cause the car to follow road irregularities more easily.

Tires that are worn oddly from a bad alignment will also do this. If your toe settings are/were out of alignment, odd wear patters will occur on the inner shoulder of the tire. This wear is hard to see with the naked eye sometimes. It is usually easier to spot when you pull the tires off the car and compare them to each other and to a new tire. I had this issue with another car. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out until I got new tires.

Mike93FD

iTrader: (2)

That was my first guess. To check it put the front of the car on jack stands. With the tire off the ground, hold the tire with both hands, one on each side. Push with one hand while you pull with the other, but quickly, if there is obvious play, and especially a clunking sound, the tie rods are out. If the tire just moves with the steering rack smoothly and there's no play, then it isnt your problem. To really make sure I usually crawl under there and put my hand on the tie rod itself and strongly try to pull it out and push it in. From there, you should feel NO PLAY WHATSOEVER. If those are loose or clunking, replace them. Hope this helps. To check the other side its the same procedure. Usually one will go out at a time, so if one is bad, the other should feel great. I would replace both either way, because that way you dont have to worry about the other one going out soon after.


The symptoms for this part going out are the worst when you are turning and it feels like the car is steering itself, and you have to correct it.

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Many Tanks,
Changed a lot of bushes (all most all) also the tyre rod end were replaced.
Now i have to check for tyre and allinement (off course were already checked but i want to change setting).
Plus this problem comed out when i replaced the stock wheel with an Enkey RP03 18", may be a lillte different off set caused this, i will also try to reuse the stock wheel\tyre. But other people using the the same wheel said that have no problem.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Pietro

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i have a problem which i think its my alignment and bushings/ tierods

i went to get an alignment a year in a half ago, when he had it up on the machine he said its not worth doing it since your tie rod is out, i said ok.. had it checked by someone else and they said it was fine, still havent had an alignment since.. no weird tire wear.. the only issue is i have to keep the wheel a little to the right(or is it the left) to go straight and i really feel it pulling under hard braking.

i have pillow ball bushings waiting to be installed.. im just waiting to save some money for super pro bushings and do it all at once. then get an alignment.

i guess ill have to check out the tie rods myself 2morrow since im off

ttmott

iTrader: (1)

Nice Wheels.... If you changed the scrub radius much past the factory setting the car will handle differently. What width and offset are the rims?

Keeping within +/-5mm of the stock radius is best; Some say not to go under. Go peruse the suspension section - much discussion there on the subject...

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

Did you replace the bushings with Mazda OE, Mazdaspeed, or something else ?

I'm getting ready to replace mine, and am concerened that the SuperPro bushings won't have the deflection . . .

:-) neil

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

They will deflect a little, unlike like nylon or delrin bricks.

http://www.powerflexusa.com/technical_faq.php

Also, Superpro sells eccentric bushings in their alignment kit which allow for additional camber adjustment

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Off set is 38 rear and 40 front.
May be i solved the problem changing all bushes and after reallin all wheel (toe caster camber)

I'm a bit disappointed about Powerflex, the are noisy on the hole in the road ("squeet"). Plus after 3 days one was broken :-( they changed for free without problem but i spent 100€ to replace it :-(

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

What kind of grease did you use?

pietrino

iTrader: (1)

The one included in the pocket and the second time a copper base as suggested.