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Broken bolt on manifold not stud

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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:22 PM
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From: Birmingham, Al
Broken bolt on manifold not stud




when removing the turbos, the top bolt of the two bolts (not studs) the very end of the bolt only about 3mm broke off at the top of hole...what on earth should i do...i cannot get a drill to fit straight on in the engine bay to drill out the end of the bolt

should i try tapping a very small screw hole into the bolt with a tap kit, then inserting a small screw with strong locktite on it letting it dry and trying to "unscrew" the small screw to unscrew the large one?

i donno!
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I don't understand your picture or reference to any bolts as I only remember studs. Can you do a more clear picture (one closer)? It sounds like you removed the twin turbos and left the exhaust manifold. If, so can you remove the heat shield and then remove the exhaust manifold?
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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From: In A Disfunctional World
The cover plate for the pre-control gate uses two bolts that go all the way through into the EM. All other turbo to exhaust manifold fasteners are studs and nuts.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:36 PM
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right...so that means i must have left hte exhaust manifold behind should i removie it and try to drill it outside the car...i just dont want to risk cracking more bolts
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:36 PM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
By cewrx7r1's reference, it sounds like you should be able to remove the exhaust manifold and work with it outside of the car. There are kits from Sears and harbor freight to remove broken studs but you may have to find a machine shop to do it.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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how the HELL do you pull off the heatshield around the exhaust manifold to get to the frickin exhaust manifold nuts.....ive removed all of the heatshield bolts but the shield will NOT MOVE from underneith because of the stupid flapper thing on the ouside that the turbo control actuator hooks too...this flapper is blocking the shield from coming off...can i just gank the damn shield with some sheet metal cutters and throw it out!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
The rod is held on with a C clip. You can pull the clip off with needle nose pliers but I don't remember ever removing it while mounted. There is a very small seperate peice (shield) under the manifold that you have to remove first then the larger one. I don't remember the heat shield being screwd in but it's been so long since I had the twins, I could be wrong. See if you can remove the small underpeice first. Check the manual to see if their are pictures or helpful hints.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 01:22 AM
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well i appreciate you trying to help me

the rod was already removed from its attachment by c clip to this flapper...the flapper is blocking the way its what the rod attaches too...directly under the manifold...i can move it with my fingers and the door open and shuts in the exhaust port of the manifold....its blocking the shield from moving....shop manual shows nothing of this
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Old May 9, 2007 | 05:15 AM
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IIRC you might need to remove the heat shield from the motor mount to clear some space.

Take a break, and give it another try. If you have the TCA off, then the heat shield should come off, although it's a tight fit. Look to see if your heat shield is bent anywhere, because that might be making it harder to remove.

Dave
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Old May 9, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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That shield is a ****** to get off. You just need to play around with the rotating arm until you get it into a position where it will come off. Also make sur eyou remove the small shield attatched to that shield right by that stupid arm - its held on using a 10mm nut.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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and don't worry the nuts/studs retaining the exh manifold come out way easier then the ones that hold the turbos to the exhaust manifold.

put some high temp antisieze on when you reinstall everything
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Old May 9, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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not sure if theres enough room....but can a 90degree drill work...i have a craftman cordless drill, and 90degree cordless drill set...$100 ...
works wonders in tight places...
good luck

brad
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