Sup Fella'z? well im about to get my engine rebuilt with 2mm seals and a streetport.....is it true i have to break it in? i went on the search forum but i didnt really get a straight answer....maybe someone with experience can let me know what they recomend on doin.....also if i street port does that mean i need ecu? all i have is a hks downpipe as for another mod ....thanks on whoever takes the time to help me out

 

Yes you need to break it in. If the engine has new apex seals installed, it needs to be broken in.
The recommanded break-in procedure by mazda competition is to idle the car for a short period of time when first started. Then you can drive it without boost and not over 5000rpm. It depends on if the main bearings and the rotor bearings are reused or not, if they are reused, the break-in period is shorter.

 

you don't need ECU upgrade during the break-in period. since you are not going to boost it anyways. Usually you can get away using the stock ECU with only the down pipe. However, depends on how your engine is ported, you might need to have something more than just stock ECU...

 

http://www.rx7.com/tech/new-motor-tips.html

low boost, under 4k for first 500 miles, change oil

moderate boost, maybe under 6k for 1000 miles -- no WOT

 

does anyone know if u have to upgrade the ECU with the street port????

 

haven't you discussed these issues with whoever is rebuilding your engine?

I know people have run a streetported engine with the stock ecu but I wouldn't.

 

tell it

 

yes you can run a street port on a stock ecu.
marc

 

i also just had my engine rebuilt and what jeff at rotary power said is to take it easy for first 1000 miles with no boost i kept it under 4k rpm and no faster then 70 miles an hr adn everything looks fine no leaks or anything.

 

Alright so let me get this straight if i reuse the;
Apex seals, side seals, corner seals, but replaced all the springs, reused rotor barrings! then my engine does not need to be brocken in? is that what you guy's are telling me?

 

Alright so let me get this straight if i reuse the;
Apex seals, side seals, corner seals, but replaced all the springs, reused rotor barrings! then my engine does not need to be brocken in?

I wouldn't call that a rebuild....I'd call it a JC Penny ****** rig

(disclaimer - before the PC crowd starts jumping down my back, "******" in my book simply means anyone who doesn't do stuff right the first time....there are plenty of white ***** in this world...if you are offended, I couldn't care less, get a life)

 

regarding break-in procedure for a professionally rebuilt engine....as others have said, stay off the boost and constantly vary the throttle below 4500 rpm to force the seals to "bed into" or "seat" against the new aluminum housings (hopefully you have new housings)...do this for the first 300-500 miles using dino oil, then dump the dino, put some Mobil 1 15w-50 in, and let 'er rip

that was my procedure, and my car runs like a raped ape

 

Uh..

I ran my car on the stock ECU for two days before switching to the PowerFC.

I'm currently on day number 5 of driving around on an untuned rebuilt & streetported motor. No boost spikes..creeps..nothing nadda. Just one bad case of idle modulation. Need to adjust that this weekend.

I was told by Rob at PR, that I should go easy on it for the first thousand miles.

And Ralph at Xcessive Motorsports told me that I should get on it every once in awhile..to help seat the Apex seals...he said if you baby it too much..it's not good for it. He said not to run it till redline, or anything like that..but that I shouldn't baby it.

The car is running fine, and I've gotten past 4k a few times...but I'm really being easy on it. I've got about 400 miles on it right now.

I can't wait to get it broken in fully, and tuned..so I can relax a little.

 

DOH.

 

archangelx--The idle problem may be the PFC has not had time to learn to idle smoothly. That may take some time. Some are quick some are not .

 

See my sig for mods. 500 miles 5 psi, 5000 rpm. After 500 miles change oil. I used Mobil 1 15W50 from the start. Rock and roll with full boost. My motor now has 2000 miles, and run beautifully strong! I recommend Power FC with ignition retard and timing splits to get the most out of your street port.

 

ALWAYS NEED TO BREAK IN A NEW ANYTHING!!

 

get a new 'book' *******. for that just call the person cheap. i hope u break your teeth on your bike.

 

So...er..what you're saying is that my PFC needs a bit of time?

Lemme just put it this way...everytime I come to a stop...start the car...turn on the fan...my revs modulate from 1000 to 1400...it'll do this for awhile..but will finally settle down and idle at 1000. That's just way to high I think..I thought the 7 was supposed to idle at 750.

It's annoying as hell.

 

(since the break-in questions been answered)
YSF-R1. is that what the hillbillies in NC teach you? That you can take a racist word and make it ok to use.

 

ha

I'm from Detroit....recently moved here

it's a word I grew up with, nothing racial about it to me

there are alot of ****** rig cars in this world....that phrase is irreplaceable

if someone told me they "white honkeyed" their car together, I would laugh hysterically

PC people don't bother me, I just offend them at will

edit: wanted to save mahjik the trouble

 

let me add comething else about break in

break is not really a funtion of "how many miles you put on the car," say 500, 1000, whatever....it doesn't really matter

it is more a function of heat cycling....that is, how many times the engines is run at operating temperature and then allowed to completely cool down, preferably overnight

after about 20-30 heat cycles, the engine is most likely broke in, if not sooner, regardless of mileage

this is according to my cousin who builds racing motorcycle engines for a living and has read ASME literature on the subject

 

If that was the case, then you could just let your engine idle about 20-30 times, and your brand new engine components would be broken in. "Break-in" refers to the fact that many new engine pieces are made to "bed-in" or "seat" with one another in order to get their working surfaces either polished for better sealing, or worn in for better mechanical meshing and less friction. And the only way you do this is by putting the engine under load for a period of time. Heat cycles are only there to get the metal expansion consistent, in somewhat the same manner as how breaking in the engine components gets them to work better with one another.

That's why you shouldn't just baby a brand new motor for the first 500 miles at 3000 rpm with barely any throttle. You need to get the apex seals to seat against the rotor housing (just like rings against the cylinder walls w/pistons), and the only way you can get them to "polish themselves' and fully seal is to increase the pressure against the housing walls; so you need to run it up a few times in the lower gears-- without using full throttle, so the loads are moderate, not heavy.

Not really sure what books your cousin was reading, but he (or you) may be misinterpreting what the ASME papers said.

 

If that was the case, then you could just let your engine idle about 20-30 times, and your brand new engine components would be broken in.

oh brother

ok, ok....re-phrase....run the engine at operating tempearatures under load, not idling in the driveway

the point is that you can't take your car on a 500 mile trip and say it's "broke in" in one heat cycle....it doesn't work that way....with each heat cycle, the compression of the engine improves as the rings/seals "seat" against the new mating surfaces....you can easily prove this to yourself

someone always has to nit-pick

 

and btw, you completely ignored the previous posts on this thread which already mentioned your discussion