Breaking in procedure...
02-23-05, 08:01 PM
#1
Breaking in procedure...
Hey, the other day I was thinking about how I will break my engine in when I get it back. It is getting rebuilt and street ported...But thats not the point. I know that your not supposed to boost at all during the first 1500mi or so. It all depends on who your talking to for the milage. But my question is how do you keep your car from producing boost of any kind? Its obvious to keep the rpm's down, but what if the engine goes under load, such as a hill or something? Even at low rpm's you will build a little bit of boost. Any information would be great. Thanks.
02-23-05, 08:08 PM
#2
Slow RX-7
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Originally Posted by Cgotto6
Hey, the other day I was thinking about how I will break my engine in when I get it back. It is getting rebuilt and street ported...But thats not the point. I know that your not supposed to boost at all during the first 1500mi or so. It all depends on who your talking to for the milage. But my question is how do you keep your car from producing boost of any kind? Its obvious to keep the rpm's down, but what if the engine goes under load, such as a hill or something? Even at low rpm's you will build a little bit of boost. Any information would be great. Thanks.
No boost at all? Who said that? I would say keep it under 4000 RPM's for the first 500 miles. Then under 6000 RPM's to 1000 miles. After that I would say it will be ready to go. How is it possible to drive an RX-7 without any boost
02-23-05, 08:15 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
No one has overwhelming evidence of the proper way to break in any motor, whether it is a rotary or piston. Drive it like you would any new car, no drag strips for awhile and don't worry about it. Seems like we treat these things like their made of glass but their not.
02-23-05, 08:18 PM
#4
Originally Posted by impactwrench
No one has overwhelming evidence of the proper way to break in any motor, whether it is a rotary or piston. Drive it like you would any new car, no drag strips for awhile and don't worry about it. Seems like we treat these things like their made of glass but their not.
what he said...
02-23-05, 08:28 PM
#6
there is no accepted procedure. Here is what I personally do: 15 minutes runtime before driving, 500 miles below 4000 rpm, easy on the gas. then increse rpm by 500 every 100 miles. once you get to 6000-6500, youre done.
also change the oil at 100, 500, 1500, 3k miles.
pat
also change the oil at 100, 500, 1500, 3k miles.
pat
02-23-05, 08:28 PM
#7
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I will have to do the same in a lil bit when my engine gets back. I have heard many different ways of doing, but what you are discribing is unheard of. 1k and the engines broken in. ROTORSOWNYOU gave the best example of what i have heard.
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02-23-05, 08:34 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by patman
there is no accepted procedure. Here is what I personally do: 15 minutes runtime before driving, 500 miles below 4000 rpm, easy on the gas. then increse rpm by 500 every 100 miles. once you get to 6000-6500, youre done.
also change the oil at 100, 500, 1500, 3k miles.
pat
also change the oil at 100, 500, 1500, 3k miles.
pat
02-23-05, 08:42 PM
#9
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How about following the procedure your engine builder gives you? What a concept! 
I'm definitely one for a "reasonable" break-in procedure. Don't go WOT and don't go over 4k rpm for the first 500 miles. Change oil. Drive the car normal. How do you think these cars were driven when brand new? And that was with completely new engines, unlike the typical rebuild where most of the parts are reused.
I'm definitely one for a "reasonable" break-in procedure. Don't go WOT and don't go over 4k rpm for the first 500 miles. Change oil. Drive the car normal. How do you think these cars were driven when brand new? And that was with completely new engines, unlike the typical rebuild where most of the parts are reused.
02-23-05, 08:43 PM
#10
The Laser Man
When breaking in the motor... make sure you also do frequent oil changes as well.. because there will be all this crap comming out.... its not a big deal but I good idea~~
02-23-05, 08:48 PM
#11
completely new engines require almost no break in, since all the parts are new, they fit really well and dont need to wear much. What a break in actually is is a period where your parts wear really fast until they fit each other perfectly.
I typed up a bunch of reasons to change the oil real frequently, but my gf's computer spazzed out and ate it, so go search or something. heres the short version: metal from wear-in, dirt, excess sealants, chemicals, blow by causes oil to break down, use of different viscosity oil at different times.
as for paris hilton...i dont get it? she doesnt look too oily to me... but she can grease me up any day..lol
pat
I typed up a bunch of reasons to change the oil real frequently, but my gf's computer spazzed out and ate it, so go search or something. heres the short version: metal from wear-in, dirt, excess sealants, chemicals, blow by causes oil to break down, use of different viscosity oil at different times.
as for paris hilton...i dont get it? she doesnt look too oily to me... but she can grease me up any day..lol
pat
02-24-05, 02:17 AM
#14
Originally Posted by patman
completely new engines require almost no break in, since all the parts are new, they fit really well and dont need to wear much. What a break in actually is is a period where your parts wear really fast until they fit each other perfectly.
-Max
02-24-05, 07:26 AM
#15
^^ only true if you use all used parts in your rebuild. which nobody does. you will have all new seals and bearings, and they have more break in to do because the parts that they mate with are worn to the shape of the old parts, so they are farther from matching than all new parts are.
pat
pat
02-24-05, 09:13 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by impactwrench
Are you running an oil filter or are you Paris Hiltons newest fling?
I thought there was four bearings made of babbit and mostle broken in already. Other seal particles are blown out.They just need oil. Piston motors with all the valve train , bearings and how the skirts in the combustion chamber a washed down with oil is where these short life oil changes becomes an issue.
02-24-05, 11:15 AM
#17
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I have a reman with all new parts and am in the break in process. it has ~880 miles on it now. I didnt go over 3K rpm and no boost for the first 500 miles and then changed the oil. from 500 - 1000 miles I dont go over 5000 rpm and 1-2 psi of boost. I will change my oil at 1000 miles. and from 1000-2000, I will slowly go from 2 psi to 14 psi over that time.
02-24-05, 12:22 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by rynberg
How about following the procedure your engine builder gives you? What a concept!
I'm definitely one for a "reasonable" break-in procedure. Don't go WOT and don't go over 4k rpm for the first 500 miles. Change oil. Drive the car normal. How do you think these cars were driven when brand new? And that was with completely new engines, unlike the typical rebuild where most of the parts are reused.
I'm definitely one for a "reasonable" break-in procedure. Don't go WOT and don't go over 4k rpm for the first 500 miles. Change oil. Drive the car normal. How do you think these cars were driven when brand new? And that was with completely new engines, unlike the typical rebuild where most of the parts are reused.
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