Break in?
I broke my reman 13b engine with dyno oil changes at 250, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 mile intervals. Kept engine under 4 K rpms, no boosting (even though its tough to do). Also added AMS cycle oil gasoline mix to give extra lube during breakin.
In addition, I attached a magetic core around the oil filter to trap any metal shavings produced during breakin period.
At 2000 miles, I used AMS oil flush and switched to Mobile 1 synethic oil.
In addition, I attached a magetic core around the oil filter to trap any metal shavings produced during breakin period.
At 2000 miles, I used AMS oil flush and switched to Mobile 1 synethic oil.
I have 230 miles on it. I had to reseal the pan so I squeezed an xtra oil change in there...thats 2 and today's makes 3. I have the rev. limiter set at 4400.
Im bringing that up to 5k drive it close to 1k, change oil and tune it!
Im bringing that up to 5k drive it close to 1k, change oil and tune it!
I broke my reman 13b engine with dyno oil changes at 250, 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 mile intervals. Kept engine under 4 K rpms, no boosting (even though its tough to do). Also added AMS cycle oil gasoline mix to give extra lube during breakin.
In addition, I attached a magetic core around the oil filter to trap any metal shavings produced during breakin period.
At 2000 miles, I used AMS oil flush and switched to Mobile 1 synethic oil.
In addition, I attached a magetic core around the oil filter to trap any metal shavings produced during breakin period.
At 2000 miles, I used AMS oil flush and switched to Mobile 1 synethic oil.
0 to 500 miles, shift at 4k and minimal boost. Change oil.
500 to 1500 miles, shift at 5 to 6k, minimal boost. Change oil. Tune.
And after my break-in I'll be switching to synthetic too.
500 to 1500 miles, shift at 5 to 6k, minimal boost. Change oil. Tune.
And after my break-in I'll be switching to synthetic too.
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Not here to start another debate but, make it three. The lubricating properties of synthetic oil are superior to dino oil. Just make sure the apex seals have lapped in to match the rotor housings before changing from dino to synthetic. I believe using synthetic along with premix in the gas keeps the engine cleaner internally. Also, synthetic oil does not turn corrosive over time with the introduction of carbon and gasoline.
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Not here to start another debate but, make it three. The lubricating properties of synthetic oil are superior to dino oil. Just make sure the apex seals have lapped in to match the rotor housings before changing from dino to synthetic. I believe using synthetic along with premix in the gas keeps the engine cleaner internally. Also, synthetic oil does not turn corrosive over time with the introduction of carbon and gasoline.
I replaced my twin turbos after using dino oil and found that the turbos had a build up of carbon deposits. Then I installed a different set of turbos, ran synthetic oil for about 6,000 miles before the coolant seals blew.
Ported out the wastegate and found that the turbos were actually free of carbon deposits before installing into reman engine. That is why I switched to synthetic, wanted to keep those turbos clean. Also noticed it ran a bit cooler.
Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; May 5, 2008 at 08:37 PM.
Joined: Mar 2001
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This has been posted about 75 million times before, btw
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