HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

So I've been working on my car for the past year, and the project is about complete. Pulled engine, rebuilt, put back in, and installation of aftermarket fuel rails/new injectors.

I'd like to know the usual procedures on starting the car up from a new rebuild as well breaking in.

1. First is fuel pressure. My new setup has an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I have all the fuel lines hooked into it, going to run a vacuum hose from the UIM to the FPR so it should be all setup. My question is, how do I set fuel pressure and what should I be seeing?

2. I removed the OMP so I will be using premix to my fuel. I have no idea how much fuel I have in my gas tank right now, so how much should I be adding into my tank?

3. So from some of the posts I've read, I should pull the fuel pump fuse (yellow 20 A near your left foot toes), pull the spark plugs and crank the motor til you have oil pressure. So do exactly that? Pull the plugs, pull the fuse and just turn the car as if I'm going to start the engine and check my oil pressure gauge?

Any and all other procedures are welcomed, I want to make sure I'm doing this right as well as having this one post as being the "go to" for all others starting their new engines.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

This has all been covered many times before.... did you search? Not sure why you think you're inventing the wheel here

Edit: or you can ask your engine builder, he probably has some input

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

You want to get oil into the motor and turbos. Go to O'Reilly's or any parts store and get a remote stater it will be less than $15. Now you can crank the engine w/o a key or being in the car. Connect it and turn the motor over for a bit. Do this several times w/ the car off, but do not do it for more than 15-20 seconds at a time as you can burn up the starter. A jumper box will help. If you feel the need you can shut of the fuel by pulling the fuses and relays and turn the car over and watch the oil guage. Again your preference, but both will work.

I will state right up front I am not a fan of the OMP delete. Its never the same. I have done it both ways.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Drain the fuel, year old fuel is junk, if possible clean the tank, put fresh fuel in then go from there, get a remote starter as stated as they are always good to have, turn the motor over a good three or four times. It never hurts to fire off the motor with all 7's (depending on condition of engine build) the first time to help it start, watch for any abnormalities and smells as well as for leaks, expect a lot of smoke for a bit so if possible do not do it in your garage. This will be from assembly as well as new stuff burning off. Should be good to go.

~S~

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Ok, I'm less cranky now, here's my input:

Remove the EGI fuse, it's a pink 30A fuse located by the driver front strut tower. Crank 10 seconds at a time 4-5 times. This will build oil pressure.

Premix, check to see what your fuel gauge shows. It's a 20 gallon tank, so if you're at half tank add around 10 oz of premix.

Fuel pressure, set it around 40 psi before you get the car running. Once running pull the vacuum hose off the FPR and set it to between 40 and 43 psi. You'll need an allen key and a short wrench.

Also, if you don't have a Lisle funnel consider getting one. Makes burping the cooling system of air much easier. While the car is idling and warming up, make sure to have the defroster on, fans on high, and the temp all the way to full heat.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Loosen the oil filter. Turn the engine over with the fuse out and check for oil at the filter pedestal.

For fuel pressure, in the diagnostic box jumper the F/P and GND terminals with the key ON, engine off. This will pressurize the fuel system so you can set fuel pressure and check for leaks. There is no one single "correct" fuel pressure setting, but the most common are probably 40psi or 43.5psi (which is 3 bar).

+1 for Lisle funnel. that thing is sweet. I also recommend a boost/vacuum leak pressure test before even starting the engine.

You may need to keep your foot on the gas pedal to keep the engine alive. you can use the throttle adjust screw to raise the idle speed initially. sometimes you have to put a little oil in the spark plug holes to build compression.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Yup, diagnostic box jumper is useful for this as well as to check for fuel leaks.

I've never had to put oil in spark plugs to build compression, but we always use new internal springs/seals, and typically have very good condition (if not new) rotor housings.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

It's also worth testing your fuel setup before you plug in the rails, that way you can check for stuck injectors, etc and make sure they work and have no leaks.

If your injectors were cleaned and have been sitting around a long time theres a good chance they will be stuck.

millennm

iTrader: (6)

I'd put some 2 cycle into the trailing plug hole of each rotor. Just a small squirt.
I lost 3 lbs compression after my 800 mile breakin. So if it has psi compression in the 120s @ 250rpm, I'd take it easy but drive normal(5th gear and all).

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I guess that's more of a problem on "budget" 1st and 2nd gen DIY builds

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the help guys!

I got the map from Howard so I am pretty sure I am all set for firing the car up!

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Going to Walmart today to pickup the following fluids:

Motor Oil: Mobile1 5-30
Transmission Oil: Mobile1 Gear Lube for Transmission
2-Cycle Oil: Techedge 2-cycle oil
Coolant: Does it matter?

Anything else I should be picking up?

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Personally I use traditional motor oil for break in. Castrol GTX. Break in and then switch to synthetic.

You have a good fire extinguisher in your garage? After I mess with the fuel system I always make sure I have one nearby (other than the one in the car) just in case the unthinkable happens.

I have never had issues with overheating just using the yellow bottle coolant, prestone I think.. Those others on here swear to only use something else but I forget what it is called. **edit**Just remembered, Evans coolant.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I am going to reuse my trans oil for the break in period and then change it out. Got the 2 cycle oil and will add to the gas tank. Adding 50/50 prestone coolant and adding around 4.3ish qts of motor oil.

I have to make adjustments to my base map for fueling and then load it.

Then set fuel pressure to 43psi.

Get Fire extinguisher and turn the key.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

it's probably going to take more than 4.3 quarts on a completely dry engine

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

I'd recommend that you pre-mix for the entire life of the engine.

Coolant doesn't matter. What does matter is that you use DISTILLED water to cut it if it's not already cut.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I am premixing that is what the 2 cycle oil is for.

I got 50 50 coolant which is already mixed half coolant and half distilled water.

Trans fluid is back in the car. Engine is back together. Now just bleeding the clutch to build more pressure. Egi and fuel pump fuses are pulled, bottom spark plug wires are pulled off the plugs and going to turn then engine over to build oil pressure.

Then going to put fuses back in and connect the spark plug wires back on and will turn the car to accessories to see if I get fuel and no leaks.

Then start the car after I load the base map and edit it!

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Ok, got to a stopping point today.

Car is back on the ground, oil is in the car, coolant is in the car.

I pull the EGI fuse, I pull the fuel pump fuse, I remove the bottom two sparkplugs and try to build oil pressure.

In order to save my battery, I had my car hooked up to jumper cables to my Dad's truck.

First 3-5 tries. Turned the car over for 15 seconds each time with spark plugs in but no spark plug wires connected to it. No oil pressure showing on the gauge.

Next 2-3 tries. Pulled the bottom spark plugs and turn the car over for 30-45 seconds with no movement at all on the oil pressure gauge.

Now I noticed there seemed to be a "scratching" sound with the spark plugs out. My builder said there should be a "whooshing" sound, but it definitely sounded more like scratching/scraping but I have no idea.

Anyone have any idea on what's going on? Made sure the oil pressure sender was connected correctly and all of that.

I tried to make a video to see if you guys could make it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjYc03Uxqrc

rx7rcer09

that does not sound right at all to me... it does sound like something is scraping the inside of the housing.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

really hard to tell, spray some ATF and see if it changes the noise. also turn the engine by hand six times, you should hear three strong pops.

millennm

iTrader: (6)

I guess you're taking out plugs to make it easier to crank?
To build oil pressure just remove the circuit relay. It's the big green one in the center. Then crank until your oil pressure needle moves up. Put green relay back. Then build fuel pressure. Turn ignition to accessory for 10 sec. Remove F/P to gnd. jumper. Start and let it run a long time. Use the Lisle funnel too. When I do a compression test I get a major whoosh out of the trailing or upper plug holes. The lower or leading plugs are still in place.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

loosen the oil filter. turn the engine over. do you see oil reaching the pedestal? Are you looking at the factory gauge or an aftermarket one? If you have an aftermarket gauge hooked to a circuit that doesn't receive power during cranking then you won't see the needle move.

It's not going to sound "right" if the plugs aren't in. There isn't enough compression. In contrast you can hear an even pulsing sound out of the exhaust when all the plugs are in and the EGI system is disabled while cranking.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks every for the help.

Going to work on the car today and pray for the best. Going to end up removing the oil line that goes to the turbo, place it in a cup and then crank the motor over. If and hopefully that there is oil pressure and it is my sensor that is bad, oil will come out into the cup.

Keep your fingers crossed for me guys

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

This has got to be the best picture I've seen!

Oil pressure! This is the oil feed line to my turbo. Turned the car over to see if I get pressure. First 20-25 seconds none. Turned the car over again for 10-20 seconds and this is what came out! Oil pressure gauge still showing no oil pressure though (stock gauge, not aftermarket)

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I don't know if you did the build or not, but packing the oil pump with vaseline helps build oil pressure more easily. Putting a little oil down the filter pedestal doesn't hurt either.