Nateness

iTrader: (7)

This weekend I attempted to replace the pads and rotors on my 1993 RX-7 and ran into some issues.

1. I was not able to compress the caliper pistons back into a "fully flushed" position, making it impossible to fit the calipers over the new pads/rotor. I tried using a special brake-caliper specific tool as well as a hardware store C-clamp. I bent the c-clamp in my attempt to compress the piston.

2. Previous owner stripped two of the slider pin bolts in the rear.

3. No parts stores seem to have the ability to sell me remanufactured calipers.

I am pretty frustrated with these turn of events, this brake job has turned into a very expensive and time consuming proposition. On my previous cars (MR2 turbo, civic, camry, sienna) I have not had this difficult of a time replacing the brakes

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sorry to hear, I've had brake issues working om VWs moreso than FDs.

Re: #1, you're talking the front? Those just compress but the rears screw in clockwise.

You can order reman calipers from Ray at Malloy for a very reasonable price, 888 533 3400.

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

Goodfella is right, if your trying to compress the rears it's not going to work. If your having trouble with the fronts make sure the bleeder is open to push some fluid out.

blacksi

I always open the lid of the fluid fill container to allow the fluid to flow back into it.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I'll bet Fritz has got 18 ****-tons of stock calipers laying around. Give him a PM.

Also, yes, to reiterate, the rear pistons screw in.

jjshaloam

iTrader: (5)

I just switched to RZ brakes all around. Still have the old calipers, if you want them.

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

Thanks everyone for the advice/support. I just got off the phone w/ Ray @ Malloy Mazda to get new pins. I'll be getting the proper tool to screw the rear calipers down later today. If it turns out that I damaged any of my rear calipers by trying to compress them earlier, I will definitely be looking out for remanufactured calipers.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

While you spoke to Ray did you get prices for reman calipers? I want to say I paid like $150ish per for the rears when I installed my Racing Brake 4 corner BBK a while back.

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

I didn't get a quote for remaned calipers when I spoke w/ Ray this afternoon. I did get a quote yesterday from Shucks for approx. $140 for the rears, $180 if you do not have a core. At this point I'm praying that my rear calipers were unaffected by my clamping attempts, I am definitely investing in a FSM after this mess.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

I did the same thing as a newby, didn't cause any harm.

Easy to check however, just make sure the rear brakes work and there are no leaks.

BTW, re the other poster saying to open a bleed screw: failing to do so can damage the check valve in the master cylinder.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I have own my FD since June 1992 and never have had any problems. Maybe because I read the manual before ever trying anything!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Ray's pricing is similar, if you end up needing rear calipers you're better off going through him and getting the mazda parts in my opinion.

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

Does anyone know if there are any commercial tools available to compress the front brake calipers?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I sometimes have used these pressing against the pads:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s&sName=Pliers

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

So do you use two of these, one compressing each pad surface simultaneously? I've tried compressing one side at a time, but that leads to the other side expanding (unless you were to open the bleeder screw while doing this?)

shmacklepap

iTrader: (15)

I recently did a full brake job on my car, new rotors/pads

Front were done with no problems. Then I got to the rears, I could not compress the caliper piston completely, so I Bought a piston caliper compressor, had no success with that. So then I bought a caliper rebuild kit, took the caliper completely apart, cleaned and replaced all rubber pieces, put back together.
Then got to the point of getting to put the caliper back on with the new pads onto the new rotor. WOULD NOT FIT. It was maybe a millimeter too thick for the caliper to slide on. I assume its because of the brand new rotors/pads.

The rear caliper piston always looks like its not fully flush, thats because its not. Its just how it is.

One more thing, if you believe your rear calipers are locked up, I would suggest buying a rear caliper rebuild kit from Mazdatrix.com @ about $40.

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

Just to clear everything up - I used the proper rear caliper compressing tool (you will turn the piston clock wise as you push in on it). No problems, brake lines bleed normally.

Front calipers will compress, but when I compress one side, the other side will pop back out. I need to find a way to compress all 4 pistons simultaneously... or maybe I need to bleed the caliper as I compress...

Lemonfresh

iTrader: (1)

What tool are you using? Where did you get it at? Is this the same tool to remove the piston?

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

Its a generic "rear caliper" tool that you can get at any generic Harbor Freight type of tool store. Just walk in and tell them that you're doing a rear brake job, the tool is very generic and is reasonably cheap.

shmacklepap

iTrader: (15)

I believe he's talking about this tool



Its what I used. Its called a piston or caliper cube. They're about $7, but I'm not sure what kinda of places would carry these.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

^I got mine from autozone for about $11.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

When I'm removing the brake pads, I just pull them out halfway and use the pad to pry apart the pistons on that side. If you go slow and have the bleeder open, it will push the pistons back with no problem.

There are piston retracting tools that squeeze both sides of pistons at once, but I haven't found the need to spend for that yet.

Dave

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

That is what I do also.

Sometimes, you will need to open the bleeder screw and re-bleed. I feel that if its time for pads, its time for a brake bleed. Most manufacturers actually specify changing brake fluid every 2-3 years.

Nateness

iTrader: (7)

I was refering to an actual universal "kit" that most tool stores do sell. The pictured tool is what my friends and I call the "Brake cube"... which does the exact same job.

+100 for bleeding the brakes every time you replace the pads. I strongly recommend bleeding the brake lines, especially if you plan on driving agressively or attend any sort of track events.

KaoticFdR1

ok old thread i know but i figured i'd post some helpful info
go to Autozone and rent their Disk Brake Caliper Tool (part #27111)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=298604_0_0_

It's $55 to rent but you get it all back when you return it.


makes life sooooooooo much easier when doing the rear brakes