Boosting way too much
02-29-08, 02:39 PM
#26
Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.
02-29-08, 04:17 PM
#27
Just like how you dont prefer Non-seq, could you possibly believe someone else doesnt worry about drag racing and pushing their car to the limits ????
As for those that said higher boost is where power is made in these cars, take a look at the power gains on the stock twins for example. A full exhaust/intake rx7 on stock ecu running 10lbs will make 280-300rwhp, it has been done numerous times.
Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.
As for those that said higher boost is where power is made in these cars, take a look at the power gains on the stock twins for example. A full exhaust/intake rx7 on stock ecu running 10lbs will make 280-300rwhp, it has been done numerous times.
Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.
-J
02-29-08, 04:20 PM
#28
Andrew,
Basically what he is saying is the seals could be cracked....but you won't know until you beat on it again. The factory map sensor can only read to 15psi i believe after that it just dumps fuel into the engine. If that's not what he was saying I sound like an ***
-Dan
Basically what he is saying is the seals could be cracked....but you won't know until you beat on it again. The factory map sensor can only read to 15psi i believe after that it just dumps fuel into the engine. If that's not what he was saying I sound like an ***
-Dan
. I believe the factory map sensor can read to 17.2psi or something near that. But I wouldn't run more than 15-16psi on it anyway.-J
02-29-08, 05:17 PM
#29
Alright just took a look at his car....checked the line from the actuator to the compressor it was fine. I also tested the actuator with a mity vac and it worked. I put everything back together and took it out for a test and it boosted 11-10-11 or something similar. I'm guessing the wastegate actuator was stuck. The car ran strong to boot.
02-29-08, 05:42 PM
#31
I love a happy ending. I love these threads about the 3 mod rule too. I want to do the simple mods but I keep backing down. In 2 years I've done a K&N filter replacement and a coated dp. I always say I want to keep it stock and then I get on the forum and read threads like this and I start jonesn. I really want a RB cb but first I have to get a boost gauge. Then I read I may need a boost controller. But I'm one of those guys that gets a thrill from driving without doing a WOT. After reading this thread, maybe I won't need a boost controller. I don't drive it much in the winter anyway. Props to the guys on here for making owning this already awsome car that much better.
02-29-08, 07:23 PM
#32
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Power also comes from increased airflow, though obviously the biggest power gains are going to come from increased boost. On a stock car the stock ECU runs approximately 10:1 AFRs under boost; adding a bunch of flow mods will bring that to mid to high 10s.
The only way to safely run more than 10 psi with flow mods is to buy an aftermarket or modified ECU (or an old-school piggy back), all of which involve $.
What ever happened to the site that finally debunked the three mod rule? I have not been able to find it for quite a while.
The only way to safely run more than 10 psi with flow mods is to buy an aftermarket or modified ECU (or an old-school piggy back), all of which involve $.
What ever happened to the site that finally debunked the three mod rule? I have not been able to find it for quite a while.
and the 3 mod rule is still effect. the new membersa will learn the hard way.
02-29-08, 07:29 PM
#33
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
As for the 3 mod rule that has been dismissed years ago. 95% of the cars I sell run full exhaust with the restrictor pills removed from the line so the wastegate truly sees the 7psi when opening. I have ran cars this way for years on the stock ecu. On a really cold night with a true straight good flowing exhaust it might creep up to 10lbs but I have never had it go past that, this is on a non-seq car though so the transition issue is not a problem.
02-29-08, 07:31 PM
#34
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
for once i agree with you.
why
why
why
why
why
why mod the 7 if you arent gonna increase boost? and now someone is talking about lowering boost below 10psi. jeeze now i remeber why i stopped reading the technical section. bunch of jokers in here.
why
why
why
why
why
why mod the 7 if you arent gonna increase boost? and now someone is talking about lowering boost below 10psi. jeeze now i remeber why i stopped reading the technical section. bunch of jokers in here.
Last edited by matty; 02-29-08 at 07:42 PM.
02-29-08, 07:35 PM
#35
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
. A full exhaust/intake rx7 on stock ecu running 10lbs will make 280-300rwhp, it has been done numerous times.
Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.
Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.
and about 15psi fds.....thats 350 with 117-120 traps and will humiliate a fd that is running 10psi. HUMILIATE!
and 14-15pss isnt stress if you do it right. you and the others have been lied to by the man.
02-29-08, 07:39 PM
#37
It wouldn't be - but you will get significantly more than 15 whp with all bolt-ons at 10 psi.
just think, spending 1k more on an ecu will yield 80 rwhp withe added the boost. now thats cost effective and logical.
and the 3 mod rule is still effect. the new membersa will learn the hard way.
02-29-08, 07:40 PM
#38
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Alright just took a look at his car....checked the line from the actuator to the compressor it was fine. I also tested the actuator with a mity vac and it worked. I put everything back together and took it out for a test and it boosted 11-10-11 or something similar. I'm guessing the wastegate actuator was stuck. The car ran strong to boot.
02-29-08, 07:43 PM
#39
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
It was debunked 5+ years ago. With all flow mods (excluding midpipe), you will get something like high 10s AFRs with the stock ECU at 10 psi, which is very safe. This was extensively documented - but the experiments seems to have been lost to the mists of time. The stock ECU runs incredibly rich.
02-29-08, 07:58 PM
#40
True - limiting boost is not a trivial as it should be on this car. I do not fully trust electronic or bleeder valve boost controllers and installed a pair of Halmann ball-and-spring controllers, which nail boost at whatever setting I choose in all weather.
03-01-08, 01:25 AM
#43
a full exhaust and intake fd isnt gonna make 300 rwhp at 10psi. no way. u can show me dyno graphs all day....but show me trap speeds that back up the dyno number. i trust dyno numbers like i trust politicians.
and about 15psi fds.....thats 350 with 117-120 traps and will humiliate a fd that is running 10psi. HUMILIATE!
and 14-15pss isnt stress if you do it right. you and the others have been lied to by the man.
and about 15psi fds.....thats 350 with 117-120 traps and will humiliate a fd that is running 10psi. HUMILIATE!
and 14-15pss isnt stress if you do it right. you and the others have been lied to by the man.
I dont care what route you take, I just know what is the safest and cheapest for someone who will be the happiest in a 280-300rwhp fd.
On a side note please show me more than 1 fd that has 350rwhp fd that has 120mph traps, I know what thread you are thinking of, show me more than 1
. The last thing these cars need is more heat to trap 5mph faster in the 1/4 for someone who just wants to enjoy the car. If drag racing was a big deal there is a decent amount of weight that can be removed without putting your engine in jeopardy that will make up the same difference. Keep in mind I am huge supporter of the stock twins and what they are capable of, just search the forums and you will find other posts of me supporting mazda in what they did with the stock twins.
Either way I am glad the OP has his problem resolved.
03-01-08, 01:30 AM
#44
Upping the boost is not the answer to going faster reliably.
03-03-08, 07:28 AM
#45
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
I am not at all trying to argue, let me make that clear. I have had tons of customers on stock ecus go out and run 8.30s-8.40s in the 1/8th and trap 84-87mph in the 1/8th on stock ecus which would be around 110 in the 1/4. Add the $900.00 ecu and about $500.00 in tuning and dyno time and you are busting out 90 mph traps in the 1/8th and 113-115mph in the 1/4. Add another $300.00 for the 1300cc injectors and atleast $500.00 for a good IC and up the boost to 15-17psi to run on the edge and trap 116-118.
I dont care what route you take, I just know what is the safest and cheapest for someone who will be the happiest in a 280-300rwhp fd.
On a side note please show me more than 1 fd that has 350rwhp fd that has 120mph traps, I know what thread you are thinking of, show me more than 1. The last thing these cars need is more heat to trap 5mph faster in the 1/4 for someone who just wants to enjoy the car. If drag racing was a big deal there is a decent amount of weight that can be removed without putting your engine in jeopardy that will make up the same difference.
Keep in mind I am huge supporter of the stock twins and what they are capable of, just search the forums and you will find other posts of me supporting mazda in what they did with the stock twins.
Either way I am glad the OP has his problem resolved.
I dont care what route you take, I just know what is the safest and cheapest for someone who will be the happiest in a 280-300rwhp fd.
On a side note please show me more than 1 fd that has 350rwhp fd that has 120mph traps, I know what thread you are thinking of, show me more than 1
. The last thing these cars need is more heat to trap 5mph faster in the 1/4 for someone who just wants to enjoy the car. If drag racing was a big deal there is a decent amount of weight that can be removed without putting your engine in jeopardy that will make up the same difference. Keep in mind I am huge supporter of the stock twins and what they are capable of, just search the forums and you will find other posts of me supporting mazda in what they did with the stock twins.
Either way I am glad the OP has his problem resolved.
Futhermore at 15psi and all the boltons, ie more fuel, twinpower, intercooler it made 360 and yielded 119 mph traps. there is a huge diffference between 119mph trap and 110 trap.so what i am saying is that if u want 300 you mine as well spend the extra dough and go full bolt on. your car will be fast. thats all i am saying.
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