So last night i fixed a boost problem where one of my coupler's split. I took it out for a test drive and the car hit 18 PSI!!!

All i have is Intake, DP, Catback.

Help?

(Engine did not blow thank god!)

 

Is your wastegate hose still on?

 

I took a look and as far as i can see its still attached. Im gonna take the hose off and check it for cracks or splits but i wanted to see if there was anything else it could be.

 

Ensure all the hoses leading from the wg and pc actuators to the turbo compressor and solenoids are 100% free of leaks.

If you can't find anything, unplug the wastegate and precontrol solenoids. If you see 8psi you have a problem with those solenoids.

If you still get high boost, I would test the wastegate actuator. If it has a really bad leak you might also lose boost control.

Dave

 

thought it was 7psi dave?

 

He meant greater than seven I would guess.

 

It's 7-8psi

 

have u ever heard of 3 mod rule? is that still in effect these days?

 

Yeah its after 3 mods your next one is ECU. I have three mods. And even with more than 3 mods there is no way id spike to 18psi.

 

there is a huge thread about it, saying its ok. but i say its bullshit. a downpipe and catback offer alota flow. i highly doubt 18psi though. prob around 12-13

 

i say the 3d mod should be an ecu.

 

If you limit the boost to 10psi you can run as many flow mods as you would like. The stock ECU is plenty rich at 10 psi to deal with more than three bolt-ons.

 

Why....Because you didn't hear a "BOOOM"? Or because it still idles fine? Just because you didn't "hear" anything doesn't mean ****. An apex seal can "survive" detonation without the "BOOOM" factor, this often happens but leaves hairline faults in the seal. Your stock map sensor can't read 18psi much less pump gas on your stock untuned fuel system.

-J

 

If you don't have a MP, then AS LONG AS THE BOOST IS CONTROLLED AT 10 PSI, there should not be a problem.

The key is to control boost and to NOT rely on the stock boost "control" system once you've done significant flow mods.

Obviously, the PC and WG have to do their job properly in any case, and with your symptoms, something is awry.

Dave

 

???

The car still idles fine. Ive started it up a few times since then and every time it starts right up and idles perfectly.

 

yeaH BUT whats the point. power comes from boost in these cars.

 

........

 

Power also comes from increased airflow, though obviously the biggest power gains are going to come from increased boost. On a stock car the stock ECU runs approximately 10:1 AFRs under boost; adding a bunch of flow mods will bring that to mid to high 10s.

The only way to safely run more than 10 psi with flow mods is to buy an aftermarket or modified ECU (or an old-school piggy back), all of which involve $.

What ever happened to the site that finally debunked the three mod rule? I have not been able to find it for quite a while.

 

i know how it works. the thread starter never said he was useing anything to control his boost. with the flow mods he has, that is unsafe

 

It kills me the big misconception of throwing on a boost controller and you will be fine, no you wont. It cannot make the wastegate flow more, it simply can not. This is why a ported wastegate is so nice to have on the stock twins. Everyone always tells newbies to install a boost controller and never mentions about removing the restrictor pills. RANT OVER

As for the 3 mod rule that has been dismissed years ago. 95% of the cars I sell run full exhaust with the restrictor pills removed from the line so the wastegate truly sees the 7psi when opening. I have ran cars this way for years on the stock ecu. On a really cold night with a true straight good flowing exhaust it might creep up to 10lbs but I have never had it go past that, this is on a non-seq car though so the transition issue is not a problem.

 

if they dont know how the restrictor pills work, then they shouldnt be installing a controller in the first place. and what do the pills have to do with boost creep, there more accociated with spike. i am not asking questions looking for answers. just trying to figure where your going with wat you said?


well here is the problem...

others like i, like to run as much boost as possible when racing/draging. i'm not talking running as much...as in..endangering the engine. i mean as much as safly possible. who wants to run 7 psi all the time besides someone who daily drives or a reliability fanatic.
and do you think everyone is running non-seq?? i like my seq setup. trying to control the transition is difficult(while keeping a restrictive cat), but the wastegate and prespool can be tweaked to give you desired boost pressure(even at the transition). plz understand i am not trying to start a confrintation, just trying to help others realize theres never just one option

 

Well removing the restrictor pills can be done without having to buy a boost controller and will keep the car running safely and can be done while still running a full exhaust without worry.

Im not going into a seq vs non-seq debate, that has been covered enough. Simply throwing a boost controller at it wont magically solve his problem. You said you thought that it was bullshit that it was ok to run more than 3 mods on the stock ecu, I simply stated I have done it for years on around 40fds with no issues. You also said it that the thread starter wasnt using anything to control his boost and that with his flow mods it is unsafe, correct? A boost controller will not solve his issue and I was simply stating that

 

Just like how you dont prefer Non-seq, could you possibly believe someone else doesnt worry about drag racing and pushing their car to the limits ????

As for those that said higher boost is where power is made in these cars, take a look at the power gains on the stock twins for example. A full exhaust/intake rx7 on stock ecu running 10lbs will make 280-300rwhp, it has been done numerous times.

Now look at the most fds with stock ports running 14-15lbs, they make about 330-350rwhp. The extra heat and stress on the turbos and engine isnt worth it to some people for a 30-40 rwhp difference, to a lot of people a 300 rwhp FD that is capable of low 12s is plenty enough.

 

My thread has been jacked! haha. Oh well. I havnt had a chance to jack up my car and remove the wastegate hose to see if its split anywhere. It looks connected ok.

 

Andrew,
Basically what he is saying is the seals could be cracked....but you won't know until you beat on it again. The factory map sensor can only read to 15psi i believe after that it just dumps fuel into the engine. If that's not what he was saying I sound like an ***

-Dan