speedygolf205

I recently bought a 91 rx7 fd3s which had a turbo problem. I took it to wgt rx7 specialist they fixed the boosting problems which turned out to be a linkage from one of the turbos had become disconnected.
I can floor it and it will boost to 1.0 bar turbo boost but after a few minutes it goes down to 0.5 bar. Any ideas why??? Is it the turbo getting to hot or is it the fuel pump not giving the engine enough petrol???
Cheers

Newsome79

iTrader: (3)

I was curious what you mean by a couple of minutes. Do you mean after a couple minutes of driving? Are you going wide open throttle at 1 bar on a cold engine? Then when it is warm you get less boost?

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

1.0 bar is to much boost unless you have fuel mods... should be around 0.7bar.

And like Newsome79 said, what do you men after a couple minutes of driving?

gafu mazda

you mean a 93 fd though,right?

BoostedFd3s

iTrader: (3)

Its not safe to go WOT on a cold engine right?

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

Nope.


And for the post starter.. if this is indeed a FC.. your in the wrong section.. and you shouldn't be boosting more then 0.5 bar... Anything over 0.7bar you should hit a fuel cut.

speedygolf205

its on a j reg which is usually a 1991 model in the uk. its a jap import type r and i have no idea if its been modified, the previous owner said something abiout the ignition???
Its been for rolling road and has 302hp so surely not standard???
I dont drive with wot when cold only after a good 10 mins of easy driving. My problem is when once the car is warmed and after literally a 2 miles straight of wot it seems to boost between 0.7 bar and 1.0 bar above 4500rpm. On the way back boost at only 0.5 bar and there is a noticeable difference in the power.
I just thought someone might have any idea?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

They started making FDs overseas before they made them for America...we always get fucked when it comes to the cool cars.

trainwreck517

iTrader: (1)

But I belive they were first released in 92 over seas.. not 91.


To the orginal post, what type of boost controller are you using? If just a spring.. maybe the IC starts to heat soak after a few min of driving which will make less powerful exhuast pressure to spool the turbo as hard.

if your running a boost controler.. maybe a boost leak some where.. once it heats up.. there might be a crack leaking air.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

One very common reason for temperature related boost problems is solenoid. If they have an electrical problem it will show only when hot in some cases.

Pull your ECU codes - if you're lucky the last time it didn't work it may have registered as a code.