Okay so after installing a boost gauge and running the car with normal load I noticed that the Vacuum ran between 20 and 30...

Then going into Boost the car would reach 10 Vacuum and never even get close to 0 on the gauge... wtc...

The boost gauge is running off of the boost sensor ( T'd ) under the hood. Would this have any bearing on a reading? Should I run the vacuum hose directly to say the upper intake manifold???

Oh the weird thing is that when I go to boost I can feel the motor making power and actually boosting...so i'm hoping maybe HOW the gauge us connected is the issue more than there being a serious issue with the car... Thanks everyone.

Dustin

 

connect the hose to the uim and you'll see a different reading

 

What does the gauge show with the key in the on position, but the engine off? It should read 0. If it reads anything else, then the gauge or sensor is faulty.

What boost gauge did you buy?

*Edit*

It doesn't matter if the gauge is connected to the UIM or teed into the map sensor line. It should read the same vacuum/boost.

 

Sunpro Gauge

With key in on pos and no start it reads 10 Vac side....

 

Well, there you go - the gage is off by that amount...

 

sunpro... bleh... isn't that advanced autoparts gauges?

Blah.. gauges go bad.. my buddy has a mustang with a whole autometer gauge replacement dash cluster.. and his gas gauge.. the needle is like upside down... it's stuck on the plastic ring... not a clue how much gas he has...

 

ok so now that we have possibles....how bout some Solutions..... besides obviously replacing the gauge itself.

 

Add ten pounds to whatever it reads?

An autometer phantom costs like 35 bucks, and mine's been working perfectly for years.

 

In some cases, you can gently pry the needle off the pivot pin and reposition it to read zero with the engine off. There are tools made to do this, but if you are careful, you can do it with a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers. Just be careful you don't bend things.

Dave

 

hahahaha same thing my sister said.

 

My suggestion would be to replace the gauge. A reliable boost/vacuum gauge can be a useful tool in troubleshooting, but more importantly an unreliable gauge can lead to engine failure. It's just not worth it to try and fix it some way. A new gauge can be had for less than $50. A new engine/turbos can cost thousands.

Do the math.

 

do you have a another source of reading the Boost pressure. ie: Power FC if not just try borrowing a friends Manuel boost gauge just to be sure that you don't have a bad unit.

 

Ok after getting a new boost gauge we're only pinning 7psi max...

 

have you recently replace your vac lines and accidentally replaced the lines going to your pre-turbo control and wastegate actuator? i did replace them without knowing there are actually restriction (wastegate) pills in them and i ended up getting 7 psi of max boost and headache for the longest time.

 

See i'm new to the FD so some of the jargon is like fishscale to me. I did reroute a few vac lines when i put the Intake system on. I tried to place them back as close to stock as I could. Let me ask you this. I have the rear BOV connected to the lower section of the Y-Pipe ergo recirculating boost into the system. Also the small outlet is going directly into the UIM. Can

Ok so do I get a slap for that or can I get away with this one?

Pics coming...soon

 

 

i am not 100% whether you can get away with it (note i am still a noob.. i just happened to have came across this problem) but i don't think so...

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...rolDiagram.htm

look at the diagram... the charge relief valve is meant to vent pressure from that area... by connecting back into the y pipe is almost like defeating the purpose of that valve. i am not 100% sure but that's my .02

in terms of your vac lines... you have to take off your intake and get to the wategate and turbo precontrol lines. you will see 2 coming out of the actuator and the top ones connecting to the y pipe should have a restricter pill.

someone confirm my reasoning on the charge relief!

 

wow. that is wrong on so many levels...... if you are sequential you need the crv and abv that is just crazy what you have there

 

Dag gone it yessssss...Thank you Thank You THANK YOU... Ok point me in the right direction kind sir... lol

 

Do you still have the CRV?

Basically, start by removing that loop you created there. Attach the CRV to the rear opening, attach the BOV (ABV) to the front opening. Basically, there is one valve per opening. Now you can leave the exits of the CRV and BOV valves open (i.e. venting to open air). The FD uses a MAP system so venting the BOV (and CRV) will not be a problem.

For the CRV, I would attach an open ended hose and route it down to the ground. The CRV vents until around 4200 rpms which is quite annoying. Also, take a look at the vacuum lines to verify you have the proper vacuum sources for the BOV and CRV:

http://fd3s.net/vacuum_hose_diagram2.jpg

 

yeah i still have both valves... The issue is identifying which valve is which as they seem to look the same and their stickers have been worn. What is the model number for the BOV... at least that way I can kind of figure out what goes where.

 

The valves have their name written on them. You should see CRV and ABV on each of them. The ABV is the BOV. While they have slightly different properties, mixing them up wouldn't be the end of the world.

 

Ok so here is the setup now and still feels like boost is just escaping out of the CRV... Matter of fact I had a friend rev the car while the motor was in nuetral and when he punched it i could feel air just rushing out through the crv... Boosting is nill because of this... help... Lost in the Boost sauce...

 

Read here how the setup/valves work:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm

So the CRV will not close (i.e. stop venting) until around 4200 rpms as I mentioned before. If it's not closing after that, you either have a vacuum line routing problem or your Charge Relief solenoid has failed.

 

ok so my question is why is it when i routed the CRV into the port where the BOV is now I could maintain solid boost pressure...granted it maxed at 7psi but at least it was something. Now Im getting squat... Grrrrrrr