boost Trouble/cheak engine light....Long Story
#1
boost Trouble/cheak engine light....Long Story
go to bottom if you want the problem without reading the story.. but wheres the fun in that??
here is the story going to the county line drag races for a car meet and i 2 weeks
before that had my suspension redone and never really boosted the car but on
the way to my mech to change the suspension the boost didnt feel right and i
thought it was nothing. (my mistake) keeping the boost controller off most of the
time when i drive so i dont get the 100% feel the driving home one night i took a
sharp left turn with the controller on (10psi) but felt slugges but i thought
because the cars have trouble with the gas tank making hard lefts and such that
was the problem.......now back to going to the races.. still havent boosted, whell
going over 4k rpms for the second turbo.... then i go WOT with 10psi and just
when the transition is going to happen it starts to feel like it bogs down and i see
the gauge goes from 10 to 7-5-then back up to 10.. then i stop thinking wtf..
thinking maybe because i havent boosted it in a long time or something i try it
again just before i go into the parking and once again it happens...Now jump to
when im leaving... i did cheak the engine when i got out just to see if something
came loose (kinda dark so i didnt see much).. on my way home i figure to try one
more time and just as it gets to 4k it bogs again/loses boost and the cheak
engine light comes on!!.. i turn the car off and on again and it dissapears soo i
wanted to see if that would happen again.. try one more and it did.. so now here
is my dilema... i am going to need to do the diagnostic test of course but i dont
know how.. and where can i read what the codes are once i get them??
O and the car was sitting for about 2 or 3 weeks because of the blown shocks but i did start it once inbetween... and also if its a big deal i do premix with pettits oil
Problem.. Boost and car bogs down
boost reads about 10-7-5 stays at 5 for like 2 secs as the rpms go up a lil more then starts to go back up to 10 i believe i didnt stay wot the whole time.. cheak engine light only comes on after 4rmps but goes awway when car is turned off
how to do a diagnostic (pictures would help because i do better when i see what im doing) where to find the out come of the codes...
here is the story going to the county line drag races for a car meet and i 2 weeks
before that had my suspension redone and never really boosted the car but on
the way to my mech to change the suspension the boost didnt feel right and i
thought it was nothing. (my mistake) keeping the boost controller off most of the
time when i drive so i dont get the 100% feel the driving home one night i took a
sharp left turn with the controller on (10psi) but felt slugges but i thought
because the cars have trouble with the gas tank making hard lefts and such that
was the problem.......now back to going to the races.. still havent boosted, whell
going over 4k rpms for the second turbo.... then i go WOT with 10psi and just
when the transition is going to happen it starts to feel like it bogs down and i see
the gauge goes from 10 to 7-5-then back up to 10.. then i stop thinking wtf..
thinking maybe because i havent boosted it in a long time or something i try it
again just before i go into the parking and once again it happens...Now jump to
when im leaving... i did cheak the engine when i got out just to see if something
came loose (kinda dark so i didnt see much).. on my way home i figure to try one
more time and just as it gets to 4k it bogs again/loses boost and the cheak
engine light comes on!!.. i turn the car off and on again and it dissapears soo i
wanted to see if that would happen again.. try one more and it did.. so now here
is my dilema... i am going to need to do the diagnostic test of course but i dont
know how.. and where can i read what the codes are once i get them??
O and the car was sitting for about 2 or 3 weeks because of the blown shocks but i did start it once inbetween... and also if its a big deal i do premix with pettits oil
Problem.. Boost and car bogs down
boost reads about 10-7-5 stays at 5 for like 2 secs as the rpms go up a lil more then starts to go back up to 10 i believe i didnt stay wot the whole time.. cheak engine light only comes on after 4rmps but goes awway when car is turned off
how to do a diagnostic (pictures would help because i do better when i see what im doing) where to find the out come of the codes...
Last edited by FD3S2005; 06-10-07 at 02:00 AM.
#3
ok whell i found this site and i guess i will cheak it 2morrow but i saw a video of some ones car showing codes and kinda looked weird/hard to read but i bet its easy but im retarted.. so ima post a vid of it flashing butttt will i have to drive it to make the CE light come on or can i do it when its not on and it will still show whats wrong?
#4
ok i just did the engine diag... and it gave me only 1 code error 06... which is Speedometer sensor.. i also forgot to add the mph gauge has been bouncing rarly but has stopped and worked normally but today the odometer i believe its called that tells you the miles you have was blinking then just dissapeared and rarely was blinking once really fast every once in a while on the drive home.... by the time i was on the street home it turned back on and stayed on... does that mean i need a sensor or (mph)speedogauge?
should i just drive it to make the CE then do it to see if its diff?
so now what do i do? about the Speedometer sensor? how much is a new one and where is it located at
should i just drive it to make the CE then do it to see if its diff?
so now what do i do? about the Speedometer sensor? how much is a new one and where is it located at
#6
Huh?
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
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No offense dude, but your story is a little hard to follow without punctuation. Thats probably why you haven't had any replies yet.
Ok, on to your problem. Follow the instructions found here:
http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
There are no pictures, but its really straight forward. If your still not comfortable doing this, I would suggest finding a reputable rotary mechanic in your area.
Check your codes, and post what you find (with punctuation please ). Also, list your mods as well.
**edit**
I skipped to the bottom of your thread and posted before I realized you had done the test already. Sounds like you may have 2 seperate issues. You may need to replace your gauge cluster as well as the speed sensor. If I were you, I would do a search for odometer, or guage cluster (something along those lines). I know other people here have had similar issues.
Ok, on to your problem. Follow the instructions found here:
http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
There are no pictures, but its really straight forward. If your still not comfortable doing this, I would suggest finding a reputable rotary mechanic in your area.
Check your codes, and post what you find (with punctuation please ). Also, list your mods as well.
**edit**
I skipped to the bottom of your thread and posted before I realized you had done the test already. Sounds like you may have 2 seperate issues. You may need to replace your gauge cluster as well as the speed sensor. If I were you, I would do a search for odometer, or guage cluster (something along those lines). I know other people here have had similar issues.
Last edited by crcleofdst; 06-10-07 at 12:35 PM.
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#8
Huh?
Join Date: Jul 2004
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If you have a check engine light, that could cause the ECU to go into limp mode. I'm not saying that this will fix your problems, but its a place to start. You will likely have to get the sensor from the dealer, although I have been told by places like autozone that they can order some stuff. A lot of people on the forum go through Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda (they are in Va.) Do a search for him and you should be able to find the contact info. Also, download a copy of the FSM from the FAQ. That should help you locate the speed sensor.
Now, what are your mods? How is your boost controller set and why are you driving around with it off?
Now, what are your mods? How is your boost controller set and why are you driving around with it off?
#9
my boost controller is set to 10 psi when on but i drive with it off so if i have to lets say get on it a lil to change lanes or something im only boosting 7psi.. here is where u can see my mods
https://www.rx7club.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=70184
https://www.rx7club.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=70184
#11
What's your point ?
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Your code for the speed sensor won't put your car in limp mode or cause any of the problems you describe. If your going to run with the boost controller off you will barely be making enough boost to transition properly. Not driving the car much and having old gas or possibly moisture in the tank will cause all sorts of issues. You see I don't know if you park in a garage or outside, I don't know if you keep the tank full or some where in between while it sits. Boosting on old fuel is not good. You need to do you boost test in third gear to determine if there's a turbo system control issue. I would think that if your not sure of the quality of your gas then you need to either change where you get it or drive it more often to prevent it from becoming that old or moisture ridden.
#12
yes the car is garage kept and had a half tank now it has a quarter at 210 miles haha.. i just tested out the car and for some odd reason it works fine now? freaken AI system musta been pissed at me for not driving it for a long time and figured to go crazy
i got a question about the stock bov closest to the intake... i pulled the throttle wire to give it some gas to see if i can see anything in that area and heard the stock bov blowing air before i released the throttle only the one closest to the intake tho so is this a sign of a leaky bov or is it suppose to do that
i got a question about the stock bov closest to the intake... i pulled the throttle wire to give it some gas to see if i can see anything in that area and heard the stock bov blowing air before i released the throttle only the one closest to the intake tho so is this a sign of a leaky bov or is it suppose to do that
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