Just need some other opinions on this:

I've been having boost control issues since I bought the FD. I sent the car to a well-known shop for, among other things, an engine rebuild and a rat's nest assessment. The tech identified a number of issues and said they'd be resolved with the installation of the rebuilt engine.

After staying out of boost for about 500 miles, I installed the Knight Sports EBS III under the pretense that it could hold boost under 8psi until the engine had seen a few hundred more miles. However, when I tested it, boost still spiked to upwards of 14psi. Frustrated, I turned the unit OFF. Suddenly, I get an even .6 bar. It didn't matter what I set boost to in this mode, I got a rock-steady .6 bar. I thought, "Oh, maybe I had the indicator LED backwards... when the LED is OFF, maybe the boost controller is ON." That's not what I am led to believe.

There are many issues to be worked out here, among them whether or not the solenoids controlling the wastegate were ever actually replaced or even tested. I was charged for them, so they better damn well have been. More interesting is that the boost controller, while apparently off, does a better job controlling boost than when it is on.

WTF? My next step is to check the wastegate solenoid. Obviously it's building too much boost, but what else could be the issue? Pre-control? This is *****; I paid someone to fix it, and I'm thinking that I got screwed.

 

A boost controller can not lower boost, it can only raise it.

Thats odd whats happening to you I am sure someone on here can give you a answer

If you took it to a shop to have this fixed and it's not fixed you should contact the shop and tell them.

Also what shop did you take it to?

Edit: I just looked at your cardomain, is there any kind of tune done to the PFC or is it on a base map? Reason is the base map should cut fuel above 12psi.

Have you tried to control boost with the commander? It's worth a shot just to see if there is a change.

 

Since the KS EBS controls the stock solenoids, it overrides the 10psi stock configuration. Besides, the stock wastegate has a 7 lb spring, IIRC, meaning that boost can be lowered to that level.

I'd rather not reveal the name of the shop until this is resolved. I am not about dragging these kinds of things into the limelight. I'm sure the shop will be accomodating and willing to help, and I assume this was either an oversight or a miscommunication. There's no sense in going to the trouble of making them look bad before they have the chance to correct an honest mistake, or in the event that it wasn't their fault at all.

 

With the unit off, it's supposed to run only 6 lbs. here's a thread for you from Mr. Dale Clark:

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=17&mnu=5

 

I'm not trying to be a dick, but I think I know how the unit's supposed to work. If the stock wastegate isn't opening properly, I don't mind the controller peaking at .6 bar when off. At least I'm not overboosting the engine. Here's my theory -

The boost controller works fine. The wastegate and/or charge relief/charge control valve isn't working like it should. I bet the charge control is bad, allowing the secondary turbo to spool and produce boost below the transition. This causes spiking in the low end. Since the wastegate is both mechanically AND electrically actuated (IIRC), it makes sense that the wastegate OPENS, given that the KS EBS can open it at much safer boost levels. Mechanically, though, I think the pill in the vacuum line is turned. I don't think I have an EXPENSIVE repair on my hands - just a time-consuming one.



Today I'm going to run another couple tests: this time, I'll put the EBC on and turn the gain on the control box all the way down. This will give me slow boost response, but maximum control over it. If this works, then I can be more certain that the solenoid isn't busted. I'll probably need to order a charge control and/or charge relief valve.

Now that I have the car back, I'm going to just take it easy for a few days. I'll call the shop on Monday and see what they can do. At this point, if they'd made an error, I'd take a refund on the parts and labor charges and just do it myself.