Boost Readings
#1
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Boost Readings
Hey guys
I just installed a greddy boost gauge and i was just wondering if these readings sounded right to you guys. It stays around 13 vac at idle, when im just cruzing, not accelerating, it stays around 5 vac, when i shift down to slow down it reads around 20 vac, and should i have to get on it really hard to hit 10 boost? I mean i really have to get on it to hit 10. Thanks for the help
I just installed a greddy boost gauge and i was just wondering if these readings sounded right to you guys. It stays around 13 vac at idle, when im just cruzing, not accelerating, it stays around 5 vac, when i shift down to slow down it reads around 20 vac, and should i have to get on it really hard to hit 10 boost? I mean i really have to get on it to hit 10. Thanks for the help
#2
Please somebody help!!!
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Your boost readings are fine, you shouldn't be boosting unless you're accellerating. all other times you'll be making vacuum. When you're engine braking you're going full vacuum.
#3
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Alright thanks for the help. I thought that the readings were about right but i wasnt positive because i have never delt with these types of turbos before
#5
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Originally Posted by Spyder7892
and should i have to get on it really hard to hit 10 boost? I mean i really have to get on it to hit 10. Thanks for the help
Dave
#7
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
As alluded to above, the higher the gear, the more load, the faster you'll see boost---but the slower you'll move up through the rev range.
I agree that 13 inches of vacuum is very low unless a heavily ported motor. What idle rpm are you seeing that vacuum at?
I agree that 13 inches of vacuum is very low unless a heavily ported motor. What idle rpm are you seeing that vacuum at?
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#8
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Thread Starter
Hmmm, well its not a streetported motor, and it does have around 20k on the motor. My car does idol alittle low, around 800. I went out and drove it again and did notice that the only time it was hard to sustain 10psi was in the lower gears, it was much easier is 5th. But since everyone is saying that the vac is low, what does this possibly mean? Oh and i am just runing the sequential turbo setup
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
It means you may have a tired motor. It may have 20k on the seals and whatnot, but might have higher mileage on the rotor housings. I wouldnt worry about it too much, as long as the car is running good that's what's important. If it bothers you, you can always go ahead and get a compression check done, that's the real way to get your answer.
#10
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Thread Starter
It is very possible that there is quite a bit more on the housings etc. I bought the car from my aunt about a year and a half ago. She had it about a year and put 2 motors in it during this time. It was their backup car and when they drove it, which was only about once or twice a month, they drove the living hell out of it. But right after they had it rebuilt for the last time, along with the turbos, and had silicon lines put in, i bought it from them for 5k because they just wanted the car gone. Im not sure who did the rebuild but the car runs strong, just as strong as it did the day i bought it. It also smokes alittle when its started up the first thing in the morning but it goes away once the car warms up, i have read this is normal right? Also i have a greddy oil pressure gauge that im going to put in, can someone send me a like to the best place to buy the piece that greddy makes that goes under the oil filter that allows a place to put the sensor for oil pressure and oil temp?
#11
Racecar - Formula 2000
It's possible that the boost gauge, itself, is not accurate.
Tee a known good one together with yours (or replace yours with a known accurate one) on the car and see if they read the same.
Or, out of the car, check your gauge against a known accurate one. Tee them in together and put pressure on them and see if they read the same. Do the same thing for the vacuum side using a "Mityvac" or something similar.
Your readings won't mean much if the gauge isn't accurate.
Dave
Tee a known good one together with yours (or replace yours with a known accurate one) on the car and see if they read the same.
Or, out of the car, check your gauge against a known accurate one. Tee them in together and put pressure on them and see if they read the same. Do the same thing for the vacuum side using a "Mityvac" or something similar.
Your readings won't mean much if the gauge isn't accurate.
Dave
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