arie1955

I just went to a shop in my area in Long Island, to fix my boost problem, it was 10-8-5, meaning no second turbo, He told me it would be a cheap fix, like 100-150 bucks. But then he found out who i am, and that i got a lot of money to spend, he says the bill is 800 now to fix the car. Says the secondary turbo actuator is broken. I trully believe he is DICKING me around, charging me 800 dollars to fix something that is probably just a simple solenoid or vacuum line, the car has 113,000 miles, 85,000 on the rebuilt mazda. Does anyone know of an honest shop in Metro NY area to fix it. He left the car in non-sequential mode, and it sucked, before i had just the 1st turbo work, and i liked it alot, but when it went past 4500 rpm, i just had to live with it.

I love my RX7, all my friends, dad, and brother hate the car, but i love it, just spent 800 bucks changing the rear end cause it was making noise. I just wanna deal with an honest shop. I conduct my shop in the most honest way, wish other people would too.

Can anyone help me find an honest shop, i am in Queens, NY.

Or can anyone guide me to a guy who is willing to fix the problem at my custom rim shop.

spooledUP7

Screw that guy and save your self some money. It's not the actuator, it's the solenoid or a leaking vacuum tank. First test the vacuum tank for any leaks and if you can't find one then do this. Go to mazda and order the turbo control solenoid of the vacuum side (Located on the Air control valve for the numbskull behinde the parts coutner) and a new upper intake manifold gasket. Then pick up about 3 feet of 4mm hose, and 3 feet of 6-8mm hose. Next pull out your tools, 14mm, 12mm, and 10mm sockets and ratchet. Grab some beer.

Now:
1. Remove the plastic elbow.
2. Loosen the 14mm bolt that holds the throttle body to the engine mounting flang.
3. Remove the mounting bolts on the twin wastegate and precontrol solenoids that are attached to the upper manifold and move the solenoids out of the way.
4. Remove the ground strap, brake assist hose off, Bov hose, all off of the upper manifold.
5. Loosen and remove the 5 upper manifold bolts.
6. Carefully pull and raise back the upper manifold a few inches, pivoting on the throttle body and prop it up while you use a mini ratchet with a 10mm to remove the turbo control solenoid.
7. Replace the solenoid but first wrap it with a small piece of heat shield.
8. Replace the hoses that connect the solenoid to the metal pipes.
9. Replace the hoses that connect to the turbo control actuator including the ones that run up along between the water filler neck and alternator.
10. Bolt the sucker back up with a new upper manifold gasket.
Note: you may want to take the whole manifold off and attack all the hoses but if not then this should get you by (you will need much more hose for this job). Don't drink all the beer at once. It gets harder to put all the bolts back in the right places if you tank up too early.

2-Rotor

Dude you have to be one of the nicest people to asist others in time of need, especially to boost problems.

KZ1

I have to interject here. Do not dismiss that the turbo actuator could be bad. They are like 500$ as well, so your shop may be honest. My Turbo control actuator was bad at 50k miles. It leaked like a fool.

Swamp RX-7

Check the hose going to the CRV (blow-off valve for second turbo) it my be hard as a rock and leaking, that was my problem with my 2nd turbo. My pattern was 10-7-5. Now it is 12-10-12

arie1955

I plan on fixing the problem during spring break, i have no time ,and cant even find time to do anything but work, but then i will replace every single silicone hose alive in the car, and check everything