So Ive been having the somewhat notorious problem of getting 0 boost after 4500 rpm. I started by replacing hoses and vacuum lines here and there and found that there was a nipple broken off the vacuum chamber and one of the check valves underneath the vacuum chamber was blown apart. I fixed and reattached everything I could find but still had no boost after 4500.

So I said screw it and decided to do the simplified sequential. while preparing for that, I was digging around some more and found that the secondary turbo actuator rod was just sitting there hooked up to nothing. I cant believe I missed that on my first inspection... Now I just have a few quick questions before I start to work on it.

1. I see there is supposed to be a little pin with a c-clip on it to hold the actuator rod to lever on the turbo. Can I just use a nut and bolt?

2. I got some regular cheap vacuum check valves from the auto parts store just to get things going before I go all out and get a silicone hose kit and Viton valves from Dale Clark...will this be sufficient for 5-6 heat cycles?

3. Am I supposed to be able to move the actuator rod back and forth by hand? I was wondering if the actuator itself was bad. I tried to move the rod by hand and it didn't budge, but I also didn't try real hard.

any and all advice will be very much appreciated...trying to get back on the road today!

 

The c clips can be found at the auto parts store. They might be called "E clips" but same thing really.

The check valves we sell at the auto parts store I work out are viton. The back of the box might tell you, that's how I found out. If not, id contact Dale. It's cheap and he gets them to you quickly.

Yes I believe I was able to move mine rather easily, as the rod simply opens the flapper.

 

The turbo actuator was bad on my car (thanks to Fritz Flynn for diagnosing it!).

My symptoms were inconsistent no boost and a strange noise when you let off the gas.

When I got under the car, the rod was not attached to the actuator lever.

The rod is not easy to move as you are fighting the diaphragm inside.

To test it, apply vacuum to one of the pipes on it and see if it holds. Then do the same for the other. On mine, one held and the other leaked out by the rod.

Vince

 

The parts store check valves will work, but they will fail and burst open in short order. You need a set of my check valves . They aren't expensive, PM me for ordering details, I have plenty in stock.

For vacuum hose, boostcontroller.com has some really good prices on silicone vacuum hose. You don't need to do the WHOLE vacuum hose job, just the ones that obviously need replacing or are loose. Ones down in the rat's nest that are baked on aren't going anywhere and aren't causing any problems.

For the turbo control door, I would get the OEM clip that holds it on. I can't remember how much they cost, but they were VERY cheap. A number of years ago I ordered a handful of them from Ray when he told me how low the price was. The reason yours is missing is probably from someone using the wrong clip or trying to rig something up.

The FD is NOT forgiving when it comes to rigging things up or doing things half way. Use the right part and the right tools and the car will treat you well, try and rig stuff up or do stuff half-*** and it will come back to bite you.

Dale

 

Thanks so much for the speedy replies guys. Its just so nice to have that extra reassurance from people who have done this before.

Dale- you're absolutely right, half assed is not the way to go. The problem is I have to get the car out of the garage and into a storage unit asap and I just want to get everything put back together quickly so I can know if I have this problem nailed down or not. After I know everything is working how it should, then I'm going to tear it back down and do silicone and the Viton valves and replace whatever else I broke along the way all in one shot. This will happen during thanksgiving weekend, so I'll maybe have an hour of drive time on the cheap check valves, I hope they can last that long. Oh and ill be sending a PM right after I post this

I ran into another snag last night. I cant find the purge control solenoid that is supposed to hook up to the catch can. I have an empty orange plug that looks like the rest of the solenoid plugs on the rack, could this be the plug for that solenoid and I just never had the purge control solenoid to begin with? (I have no idea what the previous owner did to this car, but there is some goofy stuff going on in the rats nest). Thanks again for the awesome help guys.

 

I found the purge control solenoid ( must have been tired last night haha) thank you FSM!

just one more issue before I put it back together...I have one simplified sequential diagram that shows solenoid (A) (pressure regulator) being deleted, and another diagram from the FAQ that shows me to keep solenoid (A)...im more inclined to follow the diagram from the FAQ just because it shows 3 pipes stacked on top of each other going into/through the LIM rather than 4 pipes like the other diagram...Another thing, the simplified diagram from the FAQ shows one vacuum line from solenoid (A) that comes out of the solenoid vertically which goes to the pressure regulator next to the LIM which makes sense, but the second line that comes out from underneath the electrical connector just kind of goes toward the pressure regulator and never hooks to anything according to the diagram. I only see one nipple on the pressure regulator...what gives? Thanks in advance for any kind of input.

 

IT WORKS! and pulls hard, this forum is the best. thank you