Boost issue PART III
#1
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Boost issue PART III
Okay I have tried everthing, replaced several solenoids, checked EVERY hose,coupler, ect. and I cant seem to solve my boost problem, I had great boost for about 3days since Ive been working on it for weeks than it just gave me none after that, Im not getting any smoke or leaks.....Im out of ideas???? Anyone
#2
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I'm not trying to be an ***, but why did you start a new thread? It would be much easier to help you if the problem, and all suggested solutions were in the same thread. Otherwise you have to re-state the problem or people end up having to go somewhere else to get the whole story.
#3
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Not to be another *** but I would but that thread is no more, I've searched for it and it was gone, I don't know it may be up NOW but I'll have to look again....
And it's pretty self explanatory, Have no boost ZERO, I've checked EVERYTHING changed out solenoids, bought new pills, ect. and still nothing, the turbos are rebuilt so their good, I have no smoke or leaks of any kind....... That's all it in a nutshell.
And it's pretty self explanatory, Have no boost ZERO, I've checked EVERYTHING changed out solenoids, bought new pills, ect. and still nothing, the turbos are rebuilt so their good, I have no smoke or leaks of any kind....... That's all it in a nutshell.
#4
Give us a recap of everything...which solenoids, boost #'s (including idle) and anything else you've got.
my new hobby: wiping the grin off Miata owners as I drive by them on the freeway. ( its still my 1st month with the car, I can be a showoff about it if I want )
my new hobby: wiping the grin off Miata owners as I drive by them on the freeway. ( its still my 1st month with the car, I can be a showoff about it if I want )
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All the turbo related solenoids, i get at the most 2spi and ~15Hg, my idle is about 850-900rpms, My mods are dp,mp hks catback, hks rs intake, hks twin power, greddy FMIC, koyo rad. removed: emissions, AC, DT. unorthadox pulleys, upgraded fuel pump, ecu, ect. ect.
#6
did boost ever work? thats probably the most important piece of info...when it started failing and what mods you had before/after. Right now the ecu sticks out, cause if the hardware's good theres nothing left but software=ecu.
#7
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Yes, it ran beautifully, I was having problems before with it (not boost) I was in "limp mode" just ended up buying a new engine harness and I was back in business. Like I said before it ran perfect (with current mods), pulled hard for about three days and than I get this crap outta the blue.
Last edited by Pistonkilla1; 10-05-07 at 09:51 PM.
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#8
Mr. Links
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Take a look at the overview:
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm
Look at what is operating and what state they are at in the initial part of boost. Then make sure those components are doing those things on your car.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm
Look at what is operating and what state they are at in the initial part of boost. Then make sure those components are doing those things on your car.
#9
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Take a look at the overview:
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm
Look at what is operating and what state they are at in the initial part of boost. Then make sure those components are doing those things on your car.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...erOverview.htm
Look at what is operating and what state they are at in the initial part of boost. Then make sure those components are doing those things on your car.
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These are the solenoids that I've replaced and aren't in use in order,
Relief 1- not in use
Switching- not in use
Both of these are for the ACV and I've removed that.
EGR-removed
Turbo Control-Replaced Both
DT-removed
wastegate contol-replaced
turbo precontrol-replaced
Only 2 that haven't been replaced are Charge Control and Charge Relief
Relief 1- not in use
Switching- not in use
Both of these are for the ACV and I've removed that.
EGR-removed
Turbo Control-Replaced Both
DT-removed
wastegate contol-replaced
turbo precontrol-replaced
Only 2 that haven't been replaced are Charge Control and Charge Relief
#11
Mr. Links
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Just FYI, the solenoids have known to be bad (or at least not 100% working properly) even when new. You need to test the solenoids to verify they are working (check the attached image from the FSM).
Also verify that your Turbo Control system is working properly. There is a simple KOKO test here:
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html
Also verify that your Turbo Control system is working properly. There is a simple KOKO test here:
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_problems.html
#14
Not to be another *** but I would but that thread is no more, I've searched for it and it was gone, I don't know it may be up NOW but I'll have to look again....
Car overheating: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/car-overheating-help-691008/
Boost issue PART II: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/boost-issue-part-ii-693666/
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if you are only getting 2 psi on primary, chance are you got a boost leak. try pluging up the pre control solenoid boost line. and see if you get more then 2 psi on your primary. if u don't get more then 2 psi, you GOT a boost leak. few place that most people miss are all the plastic pipe itself. the cross over pipe, can leak like crazy, and so is the elbow, the y-pipe o-ring, and don't forget to check your charge control valve vaccum line. good luck man.
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if you are only getting 2 psi on primary, chance are you got a boost leak. try pluging up the pre control solenoid boost line. and see if you get more then 2 psi on your primary. if u don't get more then 2 psi, you GOT a boost leak. few place that most people miss are all the plastic pipe itself. the cross over pipe, can leak like crazy, and so is the elbow, the y-pipe o-ring, and don't forget to check your charge control valve vaccum line. good luck man.
#19
Mr. Links
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Did you do the KOKO test in the link I provided?
How about this test:
?
How about this test:
A simple test for the Charge Control Actuator is to start the engine and let it idle, the actuator rod will be pulled in. Stop the engine and remove the hose from Chamber A and the actuator rod will be out.
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