ok ive heard many people talk about fds reaching 11 on stock turbos with nothing but bolt ons but when i ask them what the simple bolt ons are no one knows! so i was wondering whats considered simple bolt ons?

 

I'm assuming you're taliking about 11lbs...Down Pipe and Intake...I get 12lbs spikes.

If you mean 11 sec. quarter mile...I can't answer that.

 

Intake
DP
MP
Catback
Pullies
FMIC/SMIC
ECU

and cranking up the boost.

BTW, you'll need some sort of drag tire as I doubt you get 11's on street tires with bold-on mods and the stock twins.

 

Mahjik
EDIT: beat me to it
joel

 

Don't forget a good clutch to take the power, a boost controller, and some serious tuning.

But, yes, you can hit 11's on the stock twins on a stock engine.

Dale

 

What about injectors? Or are the stock injectors sufficient enough?

 

With the mods Majik has listed, you would need a fuel pump and bigger secondaries

 

Efini y-pipe
Larger injectors to be on the safe side
Better fuel pump (since the current pump is probably 12 years old)
Removal of secondary butterflies
Polishing/coating/extrude honing upper intake manifold. After I got mine jet-hot coated, it actually DID make a differance in performance. Extruding it will yield even more.
Lightweight flywheel
High-per clutch to get you launched
Carbon fiber driveshaft.
Chromoly axles.
Removing your entire AC system
Removing the entire power steering system.
Removing air pump.

Did I miss anything?

 

carbon fiber drive shaft?? Why? It runs the risk of shattering #1 and #2 its not really a weight saver since the stock one is pretty light already, about 13 or 14 pounds I think? Correct me if I'm wrong since the auto drive shaft is 15 pounds.

 

Yeah but 5lbs here...3lbs there...6lbs overthere.....
It all adds up. I mean, if ALL he wants to do is bolt ons, well....it's an option

 

This thread is so cool. I just found out today that my FD driveshaft is screwed. I want to replace it with a lightweight one and I can't find one anywhere. Any suggestions? BTW: After handling the driveshaft I feel that although it is short and light it must weigh AT LEAST 15 lbs. I think a CF one would help since it's rotating mass. I also think you can run better 1/4 mile times on the stock flywheel than a light weight one.

 

FLYBYE... over kill!!!

i have a 94 pep (softer suspension) with 6k on a reman and here are my mods to run a 12.35 quarter...

intake
dp
high flow cat
cat back
efini Y-pipe
Power FC (running base maps)

all on 10" BFGoodwrench tires off my mustang and me GRANNY SHIFTING.

2.2 second reaction times... SUCK!!!

if i can learn to launch a little better and get some Mickey Thompson ET Streets... i GUARANTEE i can run an 11 second quarter

the secret is THE TIRES!!!!

 

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SHOES!!!!!!


[/spike lee Nike ad]

 

i dont see why almost every mod would be needed to run 11s with stock twins..you just need to know how to drive and yeah good tires and launch are key

 

Can someone tell me where I can buy the carbon fiber driveshaft so I can run 11s?

 

How much boost are you running?

 

your reaction time means nothing...it doesnt go toward your 1/4 time

 

hes right. you could sit at the lights for an hour after they go down and still run the same et.

 

I think he meant 60' when he said 2.2
60' is crucial to your ET
I ran a 13.8 @ 106 with a 2.2 60'
the trap speed indicates a low 13 or high 12, but I got a real shitty launch. I should be getting 1.9 or better. Any info on the shaft?

 

Here ya go...
http://www.7parts.com/shop/manufacturer.aspx?id=16

 

ALPHA - autometer gauge says 12 (i don't trust that) i'll check my Datalogit to see but i'm sure it's just over stock.

Keisurke T - YES, thank you for that... a 2.2 reaction time is beyond discusting.

WinterUSMC - it does matter when you spin and your car travels far enough to leave the lights and you are still spinning. (wiblergt = bad off the line)

time is running... my car is sideways... sucks!

another big problem is in 2nd gear. when the 2nd turbo kicks in, my car AGAIN goes sideways and i have to let off the gas.

this is PROOF that TIRES are the secret!!!

 

ok, for real now...

i see that a carbon fiber drive shaft weighs 7 pounds lighter than stock (using carbon = 8 and stock = 15).
will someone that switched to a carbon dshaft and didn't do any other mods please tell us if there is a difference?

i understand the physics of rotating mass and i am NOT JOHN FORCE, but for ONE THOUSAND DOLLARS????

if it makes a difference, can someone please fill me in?

will

 

I just ordered one for 900. I do not expect a single horsepower (ok maybe 1 hp) or 10th of a second improvement but my stock DS is totally busted and I hate replacing it stock when there is something stronger and lighter available. I think it would have a fraction of the effect of a light flywheel. Thanks for the link

 

If you're happy with something like an 11.7 or so it's really not too tough. It does require a lot of practice launching and shifting though. Driver can account for upto a full second difference, a 12.7 to an 11.7 so practice practice.

As for parts really needed while being very price sensitive...

Almost any ECU, PFS, PFC, Pettit etc.
Boost Controller
Downpipe, Midpipe, Catback
Clutch
Plugs are a good idea
Ignition Amp such as an HI6 for the leading plugs
Used SMIC or FMIC I suppose, almost any should work
Soft sidewall drag tires like an M&H on stock rims
Fabricate a simple air intake to replace the OEM box
Use a cheapy heated O2 sensor to tolerate lead a little better.
Run high octane race gas at the track, C16 or other good fuels over 105 actual average octane.
Turn the boost up ro 15psi or so and spend some time putting hoses back on.
Remove any stupid rice stickers from the exterior of the car, adds .2 seconds.
I think that's about it off the top of my head. I might have missed a couple minor things.

Kevin T. Wyum

 

Yes this is true. But I think when your trying to save that type of weight for the money a CF drive shaft would cost I think that would be when your into full track and that's almost all you do with it or full drag.