Hi All

Earlier this year i ordered 2 sets of S3 Turbos from Bryan directly, which worked like a charm. Small error from my side, since we both run Efini pipes but got EU/US Spec y-pipes, but that's a small thing we solved on our own.

While i'm currently waiting for Winter to come, to rebuild my 2nd engine with new sealings, potentially a street port and installation of the new BNR Turbos, my colleague went ahead and installed them in his car.

What made me wonder a bit, and i hope here some ppl can give me some more information, was, that pretty much any line going to or from the turbos (except the downpipe), had to be adjusted, mostly made longer. The BNR Turbos are approximately 1 cm wider than the stock turbos, which caused the problem that no line was fitting anymore.

Was this experienced by others as well, or did we somewhat overlook something?

Currently my colleagues FD is in transit from northern Germany back to Switzerland, as he got some oil leakage around the Turbos, and he didn't want to risk driving back the 800km with an oil leak dropping onto the collector (potential risk of fire).

Thanks for your input.

 

They should bolt right on. I've had 1 or 2 cases where I cad to slightly adjust the clocking but its not a big deal.

 

I just installed BNR turbos that had gotten a bit squashed in shipping. Most of the lines needed some bending/tweaking to get to fit but as IRPerformance says, this took some work bust wasn't a big deal. Just do a test fit to make sure things line up and fix the ones that don't. I did pressure test the coolant lines (and found they needed tightening) and also retightened the oil lines after all the bending. So far, no leaks after install. Be sure to test fitment with the shields in place to make sure there isn't interference there.

 

I just install my and i got issue on the secondary turbo leaking oil.I call BNR and they say i need the restricted banjo blot.Is that normal?i just put in a new motor and when i start her cold no smoke and this is not the first start is more like 10.I did not drive it just let it idle but as the motor is warm it smoke smell like oil.I take a peak under turbo side sure enough there oil around turbo intake gasket on the secondary can that be causing the smoke?

 

Depending on your oil pressure, occasionally I have seen them require a restrictor but it is rare, usually only in cars with racing oil pressure regulators What kind of oil pressure are you seeing? If you need restrictors I will make you some.

You may have oil in the intake and intercooler tract from the old turbos or motor. I would clean the intercooler and all piping first.

What kind of oil are you running?

Do you still have the stock pcv? If so it really should be eliminated and a catch can setup installed.

 

Oil pressure is normal first start high it would be over 90 psi once it got warm it drop to about 40.Did not modify any oil system on new motor just got a street port .I'm use 10 30 oil for the motor.On the intake pipe i have clean it when the motor is out but did not on the intercooler it self will check on that.Yes i still got a stock pcv i would like to eliminate it don't really know a good way too do it.It would be great if you can make restrict banjo for me i understand there are two banjo that feed in to the turbo what about the one on motor block it self dose that one need to be restricted as will?

 

Remove the stock pcv valve and plug its nipple on the upper intake manifold and the oil neck. Make sure you use a vacuum cap rated for heat. The autoparts store ones fail. I get mine from McMaster carr.

Either install a catch can in-line with the bottom nipple on the oil neck, or remove the line entirely so it doesn't run to the turbo inlet and run it to a vented catch can. Either way it will keep the system from dumping oil into the turbo inlet.

 

What's a pcv? First time i hear this abbreviation.

@lexxs interesting, my colleague had the same thing. We actually drove around 800km from Zürich to Berlin to one of EUrops biggest Japanese car festival, and after we arrived and a nights sleep, when we entered the festival site, he noticed that every now and then some smoke came up from under the bonnet. During the festivity we noticed, that there seems to be oil leaking from his Turbo down onto the collector, which obviously is highly risky if you stand in traffic jam or so due to the risk of fire, so we had the insurance transfer the car back to his home, it just arrived today. We're not sure yet where the oil comes from, he only mentioned likely the oil feed that goes back from the Turbo (dunno if first or second one at this moment in time).

 

You should go under and take a peak at it.I think most of the time is from the secondary turbo.What year is your friend FD ? I think 93 and 94 come with pcv valve on 95 up no pcv.

 

My friend's FD is a 92, one of the first ones imported in Switzerland.
I was not looking at his car when we were in Berlin, it arrived yesterday at his place with scratches all over, no idea what the guys transporting the car did to it... nevertheless he'll be looking into it. He also applied the simplified vacuum hoses to remove some potential error sources, so dunno if that pcv fell away with that or not.

For me i have a 94 model where we are going to rebuild a engine over winter with street port, the BNR S3, rotaryaviation separate oil feed line, etc. so i just want to make sure we consider all the "flaws" from the S3 so we do it right from the beginning.

Please keep me posted on where you find your error source, as i'm sure it'll prove helpful for my rebuild

 

PCV is the positive crankcase ventilation valve. All motors build some degree of pressure in the crank case. To prevent leaks and gaskets from blowing out, this pressure needs to be relieved. Most cars vent this back into the intake manifold via a one-way check valve. On turbo cars, this doesn't work very well because under boost the check valve will be closed. Mazda added a second vent on the rx7 that goes into the primary turbo inlet. Because these cars are nearly always making some sort of boost, the venting and oil just dumps into the turbo inlet and eventually coats the entire intact tract with oil. This not only makes a mess, but reduces the efficiency of the intercooler (the stock one is already near useless). The stock pcv is a black/grey check valve in-line from the oil neck to the intake manifold. Remove it and plug both nipples. Then run a catch can in-line with the other hose off the oil neck that goes to the turbo inlet. This will allow the crank case to breathe and any oil will fall to the bottom of the catch can.

 

If i deleted the pcv with out adding catch can to other hose off the oil neck would that be OK or i need to add a catch can.

 

I hope it is obvious that removing the PCV isn't going to fix a newly installed turbo that leaks oil at idle. Are you still trying to solve that problem?

 

Yes i'm just waiting for BNR to send me restricted banjo bolt for turbo feed oil line and see if that would fix the oil in turbo issue.If not i don' know yet what i'm going to do.