Is this a blown rotor?
12-20-12, 11:13 PM
#1
Is this a blown rotor?
Hi guys so for awhile my fd has been showing symptoms of a blown engine. It has rough idle, stalls out, white smoke comes out of the tailpipe when i gas it. It runs like crap..... Today I finally did a compression test. Is it right if I took off the bottom spark plug and connected the compression test tool inside it. It went to about 110 constatly. I think I saw a video where it goes from 80 to 110 constantly./ Mine goes 0 to 110 back to 0 back to 110 back to 0 back to 110.
Heres a vid: This is for the rear rotors where my omp line was not connected/leaking. I will do the front one tomorrow.
http://www.youtube.com/v/q_mlbQgjyZU...=youtube_gdata
Heres a vid: This is for the rear rotors where my omp line was not connected/leaking. I will do the front one tomorrow.
http://www.youtube.com/v/q_mlbQgjyZU...=youtube_gdata
12-21-12, 12:04 AM
#2
compression at rear rotor looks good
white smoke sounds like you are burning coolant
you might have bad coolant seal
if your front rotor has good compression
check TPS,Idle control valve,coil packs and look for any vacuum leeks to fix your idle
is your car missing any coolant??
white smoke sounds like you are burning coolant
you might have bad coolant seal
if your front rotor has good compression
check TPS,Idle control valve,coil packs and look for any vacuum leeks to fix your idle
is your car missing any coolant??
12-21-12, 12:45 AM
#3
No missing coolant at all. When I drained it no signs of oil or anything. I am going to do the front rotors in a couple minutes. It literally feels like its running on one rotor though so i assumed it was the rear rotor since i didnt have any oil going there from the omp. What else can lead to blown symptoms. I was revving to 5k and when i let off the gas it stalled out and this stuff happened.
12-21-12, 09:10 AM
#4
i hope that you are premixing to make up for no oil going to rear housing....
if your omp is jut leaking oil on top of your engine...you can block the omp and oil injectors off and just premix or look for replacement parts to fix that....
lets wait and see how front rotor compression test comes out
- list all your mods if any
if your omp is jut leaking oil on top of your engine...you can block the omp and oil injectors off and just premix or look for replacement parts to fix that....
lets wait and see how front rotor compression test comes out
- list all your mods if any
12-21-12, 12:42 PM
#5
The only mods I have are intake and down pipe. The omp line no longer connects to the rear rotor. I premixed a bit but stopped after I ran out and that's when it blew but today when I did the compression check it showed up healthy. I tried doing he front rotor but I couldn't tighten the spark plug all the way so no compression test on the front yet. After reading your post I searched up coolant seal tests. I read about the bubble test and pressure testing. Should I do those if the rotors come up positive. I was reading that a blown coolant seal could also lead to one rotor. But what else. Can a cracked coil do that too.
12-21-12, 02:38 PM
#6
Don't assume from the start that your motor is blown, there are several things that need to be checked prior to a blown motor. Does your white smoke smell sweet? You should check your coolant levels from the neck as well as the AST. When was the last time you switched your plugs and wires? This is also rare but your stock igniter may also be at fault. Do you have a boost gauge to see your vacuum pressure?
I had a one rotor turning issue few months back but since my car is heavily modified it turned out that I needed more juice for my spark plugs so a twin power solved my issue. This shouldn't be the case for you if you only have a intake and down pipe.
Can you show us what your cracked coil looks like?
I had a one rotor turning issue few months back but since my car is heavily modified it turned out that I needed more juice for my spark plugs so a twin power solved my issue. This shouldn't be the case for you if you only have a intake and down pipe.
Can you show us what your cracked coil looks like?
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12-21-12, 06:29 PM
#9
whats your mileage? its may just need a good cleaning and all around service.
I personally would check everything from right to left. valves, check valve, plugs, vacumm hoses, battery, clamps, etc etc. it would be easier to narrow it down rather then pointing and shooting hoping you get lucky.
What you could do is grab a shop mirror and remove the plugs and check inside the chamber for what would look like rust and see if you are burning coolant.
I personally would check everything from right to left. valves, check valve, plugs, vacumm hoses, battery, clamps, etc etc. it would be easier to narrow it down rather then pointing and shooting hoping you get lucky.
What you could do is grab a shop mirror and remove the plugs and check inside the chamber for what would look like rust and see if you are burning coolant.
12-21-12, 06:55 PM
#10
The mileage on the car is 122k stock non rebuilt engine. I'll check those out but I don't think I smelled a sweet smell. I have a cracked coil on the front that I super glued but that never gave me problems. I tried doing the compression test on the front rotor and it didn't do anything like my video. The gauge didn't move it just stayed at 0. Does that mean its blown. Shouldn't a blown engine have some sort of compression. Well the gauge starts at 25 psi could that be the reason?
12-21-12, 09:43 PM
#11
The mileage on the car is 122k stock non rebuilt engine. I'll check those out but I don't think I smelled a sweet smell. I have a cracked coil on the front that I super glued but that never gave me problems. I tried doing the compression test on the front rotor and it didn't do anything like my video. The gauge didn't move it just stayed at 0. Does that mean its blown. Shouldn't a blown engine have some sort of compression. Well the gauge starts at 25 psi could that be the reason?
everything under 90 psi i would rebuild before it gets damaged further
if you do not have compression on front rotor...you need rebuild
you will know exactly what wrong with the engine once you take it apart
12-21-12, 10:06 PM
#12
oh yeah I was asking because i thought i did it wrong because the first time I did the rear rotor I had tester in one whole and left the other spark pllug hole empty so i got 0 the gauge didn't do anything. The second time I put one spark plug back in and got the compression. The front rotor I did I got 0 also the gauge needle didn't move so I was worried I did it wrong. If it's blown does the gauge move at all? Is my engine just blown then... dang haha
12-22-12, 06:07 AM
#14
yea its blown..i cant tell you why that happened without taking the engine apart...
simple thing to do now would be to take your engine out and buy low mileage engine from someone and just swap it in
make sour
that it gets 100+ psi on all rotor faces
also twins need to be in good condition no shaft play ,no cracks in manifold and not burning oil
you will be up and running within a week or two if you can swap it yourself ...witch is not hard at all
you should also have your injectors cleaned and flow tested ...and fuel filter replaced...replace all stock vacuum lines, inspect omp and lines.... make sour everything its working before starting new engine
simple thing to do now would be to take your engine out and buy low mileage engine from someone and just swap it in
make sour
that it gets 100+ psi on all rotor faces
also twins need to be in good condition no shaft play ,no cracks in manifold and not burning oil
you will be up and running within a week or two if you can swap it yourself ...witch is not hard at all
you should also have your injectors cleaned and flow tested ...and fuel filter replaced...replace all stock vacuum lines, inspect omp and lines.... make sour everything its working before starting new engine
12-23-12, 04:20 AM
#15
I think i am going to buy my own compression tester to make sure since I couldn't really tighten the tester I had used on the front rotor. It was a rental from autozone. As of now I am pretty sure it's blown too, but I just want to be sure. I wish it wasn't and i'll be sure to do just that serbRX7, thank you. I'll update on results if it changes at all.
12-24-12, 04:14 AM
#19
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12-24-12, 04:44 AM
#20
Yeah it is rare haha and thanks ssonsk. I think I am going to redo my compression tester with a new one just in case. I was rethinking and the first time I did it I tightened the spark plug but not enough because right after I cranked the engine it unthreaded itself so there has to be compression, it can't just be 0 right?
12-24-12, 10:53 AM
#21
Yeah it is rare haha and thanks ssonsk. I think I am going to redo my compression tester with a new one just in case. I was rethinking and the first time I did it I tightened the spark plug but not enough because right after I cranked the engine it unthreaded itself so there has to be compression, it can't just be 0 right?
i think gauge you used to test rear is good...you said it starts at 25psi ....
there might be lil bit compression just not more then 25psi...i wouldnt wast money trying to find out how low it is...
just redo the test and make sour you tighten it good so that no air is escaping
battery needs to be recharged
the way i do it - jack up the car on the driver side take the tire off and get to spark plugs from the bottom
if you still don't see numbers over 25psi that just means you compression is not above 25psi and i wouldn't bother finding out what it is - 5psi, 10psi it don't matter - its time for rebuild or to replace the engine
if you get good numbers this time around will star looking at other things
make another video of front rotor compression test
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