Blowing EGI fuses
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Boxford, MA
Blowing EGI fuses
I am having an electrical problem and I would appreciate help. Here are some details of what has lead up to the situation - not sure if they are relevant or not:
I replaced my FPD on a Thursday evening, finishing up late at night. I drove the car to work Friday morning to test it out and everything went fine, it ran well. Friday evening when I drove the car home I boosted a bit and popped a hose off, which caused a high idle. I wasn't surprised because I hadn't gone to the trouble of replacing some of the zip ties I had cut to remove the UIM. I drove the car home with the high idle and shut it off when I got home. On Saturday morning I popped the hood again, replaced the zip ties and plugged the hose back in. I also noticed that I had forgotten to plug the TPS in after doing the FPD so I plugged it in. A little surprising that the car ran fine without it but I have a PFC so I figure it only relies on that for transients and I wasn't driving too aggressively at all the previous day. I tried to start the car up after taking care of those little items and it would crank and crank but no start. I took a look at the fuses and saw that the EGI fuse had blown.
At first I hoped this might be some freak incident with a 20 year old fuse since I hadn't done any electrical work so I replaced the fuse and tried to start again. Once again, lots of cranking, no start, and blown EGI fuse. I then looked over all of the wiring I could easily access which I knew to be associated with the EGI fuse - particularly the fuel injection and solenoids which were in the vicinity of the FPD work I had done. One of the injector connectors looked kind of sketchy with damaged bare wires coming out of it so I replaced the connector. I replaced the fuse again and tried starting again and it the fuse blew again. Just as a test which I should have done earlier, I tried a new fuse and turned the key to the "accessory" position and saw that the fuse was intact. I then turned to the "run" position and I could hear the fuse pop immediately. So the problem is not actually associated with starting.
The thing I need to do now is check resistance from the egi fuse point to all the pins at the ECU. In the meantime, I'd like to ask if anybody has had a similar failure and if so, what was the culprit? Would be great if someone could save me some time. Also, it looks like I see ~10 V on the downstream contact of the EGI fuse even when there's no fuse in there. I assume this has something to do with the airbag diagnostic module leaving some floating voltage there but thought I'd check if anybody had similar results in their car.
If you've made it this far, thanks for reading. Any thoughts are welcome.
I replaced my FPD on a Thursday evening, finishing up late at night. I drove the car to work Friday morning to test it out and everything went fine, it ran well. Friday evening when I drove the car home I boosted a bit and popped a hose off, which caused a high idle. I wasn't surprised because I hadn't gone to the trouble of replacing some of the zip ties I had cut to remove the UIM. I drove the car home with the high idle and shut it off when I got home. On Saturday morning I popped the hood again, replaced the zip ties and plugged the hose back in. I also noticed that I had forgotten to plug the TPS in after doing the FPD so I plugged it in. A little surprising that the car ran fine without it but I have a PFC so I figure it only relies on that for transients and I wasn't driving too aggressively at all the previous day. I tried to start the car up after taking care of those little items and it would crank and crank but no start. I took a look at the fuses and saw that the EGI fuse had blown.
At first I hoped this might be some freak incident with a 20 year old fuse since I hadn't done any electrical work so I replaced the fuse and tried to start again. Once again, lots of cranking, no start, and blown EGI fuse. I then looked over all of the wiring I could easily access which I knew to be associated with the EGI fuse - particularly the fuel injection and solenoids which were in the vicinity of the FPD work I had done. One of the injector connectors looked kind of sketchy with damaged bare wires coming out of it so I replaced the connector. I replaced the fuse again and tried starting again and it the fuse blew again. Just as a test which I should have done earlier, I tried a new fuse and turned the key to the "accessory" position and saw that the fuse was intact. I then turned to the "run" position and I could hear the fuse pop immediately. So the problem is not actually associated with starting.
The thing I need to do now is check resistance from the egi fuse point to all the pins at the ECU. In the meantime, I'd like to ask if anybody has had a similar failure and if so, what was the culprit? Would be great if someone could save me some time. Also, it looks like I see ~10 V on the downstream contact of the EGI fuse even when there's no fuse in there. I assume this has something to do with the airbag diagnostic module leaving some floating voltage there but thought I'd check if anybody had similar results in their car.
If you've made it this far, thanks for reading. Any thoughts are welcome.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: campbell river british columbia
your wires for the egi fuse run in the fender. i had a problem where my egi wire (black with a white stripe) had a tiny knick in it and got water in it and it corroded, while i still had power to my relays and my ecu. my ecu wouldnt stay on it would flicker on and off. sounds to me like something similiar has happened?. or maybe it actually shorted.
I am having an electrical problem and I would appreciate help. Here are some details of what has lead up to the situation - not sure if they are relevant or not:
I replaced my FPD on a Thursday evening, finishing up late at night. I drove the car to work Friday morning to test it out and everything went fine, it ran well. Friday evening when I drove the car home I boosted a bit and popped a hose off, which caused a high idle. I wasn't surprised because I hadn't gone to the trouble of replacing some of the zip ties I had cut to remove the UIM. I drove the car home with the high idle and shut it off when I got home. On Saturday morning I popped the hood again, replaced the zip ties and plugged the hose back in. I also noticed that I had forgotten to plug the TPS in after doing the FPD so I plugged it in. A little surprising that the car ran fine without it but I have a PFC so I figure it only relies on that for transients and I wasn't driving too aggressively at all the previous day. I tried to start the car up after taking care of those little items and it would crank and crank but no start. I took a look at the fuses and saw that the EGI fuse had blown.
At first I hoped this might be some freak incident with a 20 year old fuse since I hadn't done any electrical work so I replaced the fuse and tried to start again. Once again, lots of cranking, no start, and blown EGI fuse. I then looked over all of the wiring I could easily access which I knew to be associated with the EGI fuse - particularly the fuel injection and solenoids which were in the vicinity of the FPD work I had done. One of the injector connectors looked kind of sketchy with damaged bare wires coming out of it so I replaced the connector. I replaced the fuse again and tried starting again and it the fuse blew again. Just as a test which I should have done earlier, I tried a new fuse and turned the key to the "accessory" position and saw that the fuse was intact. I then turned to the "run" position and I could hear the fuse pop immediately. So the problem is not actually associated with starting.
The thing I need to do now is check resistance from the egi fuse point to all the pins at the ECU. In the meantime, I'd like to ask if anybody has had a similar failure and if so, what was the culprit? Would be great if someone could save me some time. Also, it looks like I see ~10 V on the downstream contact of the EGI fuse even when there's no fuse in there. I assume this has something to do with the airbag diagnostic module leaving some floating voltage there but thought I'd check if anybody had similar results in their car.
If you've made it this far, thanks for reading. Any thoughts are welcome.
I replaced my FPD on a Thursday evening, finishing up late at night. I drove the car to work Friday morning to test it out and everything went fine, it ran well. Friday evening when I drove the car home I boosted a bit and popped a hose off, which caused a high idle. I wasn't surprised because I hadn't gone to the trouble of replacing some of the zip ties I had cut to remove the UIM. I drove the car home with the high idle and shut it off when I got home. On Saturday morning I popped the hood again, replaced the zip ties and plugged the hose back in. I also noticed that I had forgotten to plug the TPS in after doing the FPD so I plugged it in. A little surprising that the car ran fine without it but I have a PFC so I figure it only relies on that for transients and I wasn't driving too aggressively at all the previous day. I tried to start the car up after taking care of those little items and it would crank and crank but no start. I took a look at the fuses and saw that the EGI fuse had blown.
At first I hoped this might be some freak incident with a 20 year old fuse since I hadn't done any electrical work so I replaced the fuse and tried to start again. Once again, lots of cranking, no start, and blown EGI fuse. I then looked over all of the wiring I could easily access which I knew to be associated with the EGI fuse - particularly the fuel injection and solenoids which were in the vicinity of the FPD work I had done. One of the injector connectors looked kind of sketchy with damaged bare wires coming out of it so I replaced the connector. I replaced the fuse again and tried starting again and it the fuse blew again. Just as a test which I should have done earlier, I tried a new fuse and turned the key to the "accessory" position and saw that the fuse was intact. I then turned to the "run" position and I could hear the fuse pop immediately. So the problem is not actually associated with starting.
The thing I need to do now is check resistance from the egi fuse point to all the pins at the ECU. In the meantime, I'd like to ask if anybody has had a similar failure and if so, what was the culprit? Would be great if someone could save me some time. Also, it looks like I see ~10 V on the downstream contact of the EGI fuse even when there's no fuse in there. I assume this has something to do with the airbag diagnostic module leaving some floating voltage there but thought I'd check if anybody had similar results in their car.
If you've made it this far, thanks for reading. Any thoughts are welcome.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 349
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From: campbell river british columbia
I also had an issue with constantly popping EGI fuses.
It ended up being the connector that plugs into the alternator. Over time the shielding of the two wires cracked, and with the bend of the connector placement allowed the wires to touch. Once I separated the wires at the base of the connector, and rewrapped them, all was good.
It ended up being the connector that plugs into the alternator. Over time the shielding of the two wires cracked, and with the bend of the connector placement allowed the wires to touch. Once I separated the wires at the base of the connector, and rewrapped them, all was good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 791
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From: Boxford, MA
Thank you both for the quick responses.
XLR8, do you mean the easily accessible plug with 2 or 3 wires coming out of it on the side of the alternator? I've taken a look at that and it looks like it's in good shape to me. I did see a thread about somebody else who had that same problem.
zxrazorxz, that sounds plausible so I will see if I can get a better look at that wiring.
It seems that the short is in between the B/W wire at the EGI main relay and the injectors or solenoids because that terminal is at a dead short to ground. If it were after the injectors or solenoids I would expect to see an ohm or two. That is unfortunate because it doesn't help me localize the problem at all. I think I need to pull the UIM again and take a look at all the wiring under it. That will have to wait for tomorrow night.
XLR8, do you mean the easily accessible plug with 2 or 3 wires coming out of it on the side of the alternator? I've taken a look at that and it looks like it's in good shape to me. I did see a thread about somebody else who had that same problem.
zxrazorxz, that sounds plausible so I will see if I can get a better look at that wiring.
It seems that the short is in between the B/W wire at the EGI main relay and the injectors or solenoids because that terminal is at a dead short to ground. If it were after the injectors or solenoids I would expect to see an ohm or two. That is unfortunate because it doesn't help me localize the problem at all. I think I need to pull the UIM again and take a look at all the wiring under it. That will have to wait for tomorrow night.
Thank you both for the quick responses.
XLR8, do you mean the easily accessible plug with 2 or 3 wires coming out of it on the side of the alternator? I've taken a look at that and it looks like it's in good shape to me. I did see a thread about somebody else who had that same problem.
zxrazorxz, that sounds plausible so I will see if I can get a better look at that wiring.
It seems that the short is in between the B/W wire at the EGI main relay and the injectors or solenoids because that terminal is at a dead short to ground. If it were after the injectors or solenoids I would expect to see an ohm or two. That is unfortunate because it doesn't help me localize the problem at all. I think I need to pull the UIM again and take a look at all the wiring under it. That will have to wait for tomorrow night.
XLR8, do you mean the easily accessible plug with 2 or 3 wires coming out of it on the side of the alternator? I've taken a look at that and it looks like it's in good shape to me. I did see a thread about somebody else who had that same problem.
zxrazorxz, that sounds plausible so I will see if I can get a better look at that wiring.
It seems that the short is in between the B/W wire at the EGI main relay and the injectors or solenoids because that terminal is at a dead short to ground. If it were after the injectors or solenoids I would expect to see an ohm or two. That is unfortunate because it doesn't help me localize the problem at all. I think I need to pull the UIM again and take a look at all the wiring under it. That will have to wait for tomorrow night.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 44
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From: Florida
How do you check to see if the EGI fuse is blown? Took my car to the dealer and they said I needed a $500 fuel pump plus labor. I tested the fuel pump and it works fine. Someone here recommended checking the EGI fuse.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Boxford, MA
Open up the fuse box connected to the positive battery terminal. The EGI fuse is in there. It should have a clear cover over it and if the copper conductor inside is broken, the fuse has blown.
they will throw parts at the car until it fixes itself and your wallet dries up. charging you by the hour while they do a 3 minute inspection.
Learn more about the car yourself. Ask around for help if needed on the forum. You'll be happy to fix something like that and it'll cost you much less!
-AzEKnightz
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Boxford, MA
Update: Problem Solved
Mashed a solenoid cable under the UIM when I had reinstalled it. All better now. It threw me a bit that the car ran fine afterwards but I must have knocked something just right when I reinstalled the popped hose.
Thanks all for the suggestions
Mashed a solenoid cable under the UIM when I had reinstalled it. All better now. It threw me a bit that the car ran fine afterwards but I must have knocked something just right when I reinstalled the popped hose.
Thanks all for the suggestions
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