To answer a few questions... Car had 3/4 tank, water temp was at 85C, intake temp was at 50C. The intake temp was a little high but nothing crazy. Overall, the engine should not have blown considering all the factors.

I will not be keeping the car because it’s a money pit with no end in sight. If I had a home already and a daily driver this wouldn’t be a big deal but I don’t. It has been a blast and I don’t regret any of the time/money I spent on the car already.

 

That sux. Mine hasn't even been having any problems and I still dip into future house saving to add to it. I feel for ya man.

 

Sorry to hear that.

 

whell atleast sell as is.. parting out a beautiful car with no body damage? i would understand you wrecked it but just a motor?

 

just tunedd and blew motor...something isnt right.......

 

Did you do a compression test?

I'm surprised noone's asked that one yet.

 

Sounds really weird.

Anyway, don't sell it, rebuild it yourself. It's surprisingly to do with these engines, they are so light they can literally be rebuilt on a coffee table. In fact an integral part of home rebuilding rotary engines is a large coffee can.

Don't part it out.

 

I agree. What a/f and timing are you running? Relavent mods? How old are the injectors?

 

did you over rev it?

 

Hmm I don't think he cares too much on how he blew it, it's blown period....and he has his mind set on selling it. I feel for you, I just went down the same path.

My opinion on the sale, if you have a clean title car, either:

1. Rebuild the motor and sell the car as is, you'd probably get between 13-16k, but you have to obviously subtract the recent rebuilt motor. It's just more of an appeal to sell it faster if you got a car running.

2. Sell the car as is right now as it sits. You'll get a **** load of lowballers and you'll be lucky to walk away with 11k. I don't recommend you doing this option.

3. Part all your aftermarket pieces, pull the motor and sell it as a core or something, and sell the roller. If the roller is really clean you'd probably get 7-8k for it. I know you don't want to take this path, but i strongly believe this is the best option to make most of your money back. It might take a little bit of patience but you can walk with over 14k easy. I'm almost at 14 once I sell the roller and I still have a couple more parts to sell. Just my .02.

Good luck.

 

posibly a blown intake Gasket? i blew mine awhile back and it seemed to give symptoms of a blown engine

 

I feel your pain! You gotta do what you've got to do! My new motor went out on me three weeks ago with just over 4k on it! Full tank of a 91 octane and VP racing 101 fuel. Got on it in 4th gear....felt something strange @ 6500rpm, quickly let off the throttle and coast to the side while my boost gauge needle bounces out of control . Turn off the car and pop the hood.

A fellow "rotorhead" notices me as he passes, get off the highway and comes back around and waits with me until the tow truck shows @ 12am (thanks "Buzz") The Rex started after engine cooled, but idle as disgusting!

After a year of waiting and $18,596.49 w/out price of audio system of parts and labor I'm back to where I started!! the FD is now sitting at the shop that did all the work and not even a compression check as been done! WTF was I thinking!!


Engine-
*Pineapple Racing motor, w/ Streetport for Greddy kit below
*Stage 2 Oil Mods
*HD Water seals
*Greddy TD06SH single turbo kit / HPC coated
*Greddy 3 row FMIC
*Greddy elbow
*HKS SSQ Blow-off Valve
*Fluidyne Radiator
*3" to Blitz Nur Spec (too darn loud!!)
*New motor mounts
*Jacobs Electronics FC1000
*341rwhp

Transmission-
*Pineapple Racing rebuilt Transmission, w/ all new gears
*Exedy clutch
*C's Short Shifter

Fuel/Air-
*RP FD Sec Rail and 1600cc inj with Reg and pump
*Fuel Inj pigtail and resistors
*New O2 sensor
*Apexi Power FC /Commander
*FC-Datalogit
*Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller

Exterior-
*Racing Beat, Front Chin Spoiler, Side Skirts and Rear Spoiler

*New paint half Copperhead Metallic, half Prowler Orange, with House of Color Orange Candy (needs to be touched up)

*Carbon Fiber Bumper Guard, Painted with the House of Color Candy to turn fibers same color as the car
*Deposit sent for FEED type carbon fiber plain weave hood

Suspension-
*Ksport Kontrol Pro Coilovers

*RP Rear Toe Link Set

*18" Falken Tourqe 5

*3 Pod Pillar, w/ 60mm Blitz BLM gauges, Boost, Water Temp., and EGT+


Interior-
*Nardi steering wheel

*3 Pod Pillar, w/ 60mm Blitz BLM gauges, Boost, Water Temp., and EGT+

*Eclipse AVN5435 CD/DVD/NAV

*Two Boston Acoustics GT-24 2 Ch 2x120W Amps

*Boston Acoustics Z6 6.5’’ Carbon Fiber Cone W/Chas component set

*One Boston Acoustics G5 Series 10’’ Subwoofer G510-44

*All Monster cables

 

If you sell it as is, what do you want for it? Inquiring minds would like to know.

 

The motor was not over rev'ed or anything crazy. Injectors are about two months old and they were brand new when installed. Steve Kan tuned the car a month ago, I don’t know the afr because I forgot to ask, and I doubt the car blew due to a bad tune. Even after this I would have Steve tune my car again.

I’m thinking about having Ricks Rotary look at the car now just to make sure the apex seals blew. I’m 99% sure but don’t want to lose a couple grand because I didn’t have the car looked at.

Finally, I did get a new car and will be sadly selling the RX7 (Not sure if it will be a roller or not yet but I will find out soon). I will post pix later today but I’m happy with the purchase even though it has pistons.

 

Here are a two pix of my new car. I hope you guys like it as much as I do

 

Awesome looking car, enjoy it in health.
2 words for you, Jackson Racing. LOL
Just an observation on your list, more than 1/2 the money you spent on the car was not for reliability parts.
So, you could have kept the RX7 and still buy the house.

 

A lot of the upgrades were actually repairs. My stock turbos were toast, the stock suspension was dead, and the car was running a stock ecu with more than 3 mods when I bought it. There is also repairs not listed like all new ball joints.

 

It is extremely rare that a rotary will blow in 1st gear (even under boost). 1st doesn't put much of a load on the engine. It's more than likely you had a fuel injection problem. Did you have your injectors cleaned and flow tested? IMHO anyone having any rebuild done to any forced induction car, and not having the injectors serviced is asking for trouble. I don't care how solid the engine is built or how perfect the tune is, fuel flow is the most important thing with these engines.

Also given how you claim that the engine still fires up and is drivable indicates you blew a corner or side seal. Broken apex seal weakens the compression on two faces of the rotor. I've personally cranked an driven my own car with only one rotor when it finally blew. All three of my apex seals in the rear rotor were toast. Trust me it wasn't easy and had Zero power. It's also possible someone did a poor porting job.

 

Breaking a corner seal is VERY rare. Usually a corner seal problem is from improper build. Side seals breaking aren't that common either. That being said, I always recommend that injectors be at least cleaned and tested when the motor is rebuilt. The fuel filter should always be changed every 15k miles or more often. Any REAL tuner should know to check these things. If a car was deemed safe to be tuned, then there is no reason it should blow up shortly after unless something major went wrong. Congrats on the S2000. I think you'll be alot happier with Honda reliability.

 

You guys need to give me a little more credit... 550cc injectors are brand new (Not even rebuilds) and 1300cc injectors are of course from RC. The fuel pump is a new denso supra tt unit and the pump has been rewired as well. All this was done around 6K miles ago.

 

You can't go wrong with a blue S2K. good job on buying something ppl will still say "nice car" at every stoplight

 

Just because an injector is new does not mean it can't be defective. I advise testing new injectors. Several places that sell them can also test them.

How old was your wiring harness? What was milage on motor & who built it?

As you indicated, many parts on the car were worn out and needed replacement. That's part of the game when buying a 10+yr old performance car, be it piston or rotary.

As for the guy with the Pineapple motor. I wouldn't put much confidence in that motor based on personal experience.

Jack

 

That is what I’ve come to realize....Live and let learn, now its time to pay the piper once again or sale as is...

 

Congrats on your new car...
For that same reason I keep my cars stock... I get the same story all the time and I repeat the same answer.. it was running fine when it was stock....

being that said, are you keeping the RX-7 or what?
If you are going to sell it, sell it as is. no need to destroy a perfect car. besides it is less of a headache to sell...
enjoy your new ride...