Does this car see track time? not 1/4 mile , but actual tracks ? how has the no thermostat / EWP held up?

P.s. Just realized this was from 2009 hah but well 4 years is good test period

 

I have taken my car to the local road course, I ran for about 2 hours, can recall the outside temp but it was Texas summer. I still have nothing to say bad about this setup.

I am thinking about a v-mount setup soon, the turbo has been removed and I'm working on down grading to a GT4082 w/ variable exh vane tech.

 

I am going to go ahead and revive this for a small discussion..

I think this great thread can be even more beneficial if people can post there cooling setup details a long with temperatures they see at the track (include environmental, ambient temp info). This should help give insight on the correlation between various setups vs temps, along with data on what temps are "normal" or safe in extreme conditions.



My FD which has stock r1 coolers, a monster V-mount, Koyo Rad ducted, RE medly water pump will reach 103c-105c on an extreme 100 degree fahrenheit track day. On cooler days >75F, the water temp does not pass 90c ever. Even on hot days, my car stays below 85c on the streets.

I am running about 10%coolant 90% water with a .9 bar cap. I know this may be dangerous at higher water temp levels but I monitor my temps carefully.Although rare and only possible on super hot summer days, I typically stop racing after 103c. This may be too conservative though. I dont think electric water pumps are vital to building a proper cooling setup on an FD. Especially if you race in non-extreme conditions IMHO.

 

I see the description of water temps. My questions is. I would rather put the strain on the cooling system before taxing the fans.

I have read threads where most people set the low speed fan on the powerFC to 85C. Then set the other fans on at 87-88C or so. If the thermostat gets fully opened at 95C, should the fan activation come on at a later time?

Perhaps run the low speed at 88C and the medium/second one at 95 or 96C?

What temp is optimum temperature to run at? 82C to 95C?

I am just trying to figure out what to dial my fan settings in the powerFC to run the best temperatures while reducing the load on the fans.

 

My fans kick in at 85c and the secondaries at 90c. Sometimes on the freeway on just cool days my water temps dont go above 80c. I think its safe to run the car hard at 80c but more importantly oil temps are what should be up before wot.

Update on my water temps.
Track day at willow springs 93f ambient and my water temps didnt go above 101c. I think thats pretty good for such hot ambient climate.

 

At idle mine went to 190 fan turned on and shut off like 180 to 183 F, this sound right?

 

I'm looking for the size of the FD radiator cap- I want to order another one, but the local parts stores here in Australia are HOPELESS and do not listen to me.

Is it an RC33 size? Or what sizing do they use on radiator caps?? Is it a standard size off a chart somewhere? Does RC33 mean the neck hole size is 33mm??

I'm totally lost. I just need the size of the cap please?

 

Radiator cap?

Are you referring to the cap on the thermostat housing or air separation tank? The one on the thermostat housing is the same size as that for the Miata or FC. However, I think the FD's original equipment cap does not have the spring since the cap on the AST handles pressurizing - IIRC...

 

I ran my car pretty hard at 8,500FT above sea level. I think the outside temps were in the 80F's.

I have a knock off FMIC (2 row), a single turbo, koyo radiator, dual oil coolers 19 row, stock hood, and ducted everywhere to flow air through the radiator and oil coolers. My max temps I got to were 90-91C on mountain roads with some sections going up to 120mph. I have new hoses, upgraded water pump (remedy), and a 13PSI cap. I was running probably 10PSI or something up there, but remember that the atmosphere pressure is only 10.7 PSIa. so I was boosting around 10.7 +10 or 20.7 absolute pressure.

Remember that at 8,500FT above sea level at 80F, we have 27% less air density and less RAM pressure at that altitude. My car would run even lower temps at sea level.

running a FMIC does not effect temps if you set it up properly. I set mine up like the Feed race car. Notice how the FMIC sits on the car, I ducted everything else to the radiator. I have my fans set to 87C and 89C.

 

Thanks, I meant thermostat housing cap.
Im not looking for what it fits, or what is close to it, but the size of it.

Just like a tire could be a 275/30R18, radiator caps can be RC32, RC23, etc. There is a unified sizing for them. I want to know what size the FD cap is.
Then I can tell this company to make me a cap "R34 size, with blah blah blah" ....

 

Can the TO Heater nipple on the rear iron housing AND the FROM heater nipple on the radiator be plugged and bypassed ? Will that affect the cooling of the engine or improve the cooling with more flow? This is the perfect thread / place to ask that question =D

 

So to add coolant to my car because my add coolant light came on, I add where it says filler neck on the picture ?

 

You guys ever had this problem?



My "Twins"coolant hardpipe was leaking. Took it off and with a little effort it broke in two....

 

Ok, after reading this entire thread I have one question unanswered.
I have a JDM 13b in my USDM 94'. I did not personally do the swap, and I just bought the car but I have noticed after looking at other's cars, the filler neck and cap to the coolant reservoir is very different on the JDM vs USDM.

As I bought my car the AST was deleted and there is no overflow tank in sight, as Cam at Pettit pointed out. Wait a sec, after looking at a usdm neck, there is a black plastic piece under the cap with a nipple on it to vent to the overflow tank on a usdm car. On my JDM 13b there is none! No black plastic piece or nipple, no tank, no where to put lines. Nothing? And the Cap is a no spring? cap.

He said he was shocked to see that and that there needs to be a way for the coolant to expand as needed to an overflow tank and pressure to be relieved. How does this work in a JDM set up? I'm super confused and just want to make sure I'm not going to blow up my car, lol.

 

As you can see in the crappy photo zoom under the hood of my car notice the jdm filler neck doesn't have the black nipple and piece under the cap, it's all one metal neck. Next photo is a usdm neck. See the difference? What gives?

 

Not 100% sure but seems like the previous owner installed a 2nd gen filler neck. Lots of people do it so that they can remove the AST on there cars. Either that or you keep the stock filler neck and plug the nipple. The 2nd gen one just makes for a cleaner removal of the AST.

 

Ok so with it set up how I have it do I need to get the 86 rx7 16psi cap and neck as outlined here?Coolant Air Separation Tank Elimination

Remember right now I have the stock cap with no venting (yellow top) and no line at all to run into an overflow tank. It is just a bare neck with no fittings at all and the cap on top. My question is with a set up like this where is the coolant going when it expands? And how is pressure escaping?

 

when i got 2 jdm motorsets sent to me 1 was exactly like my USDM model, it also had the early emissions style rats nest.

the 2nd one had a water neck cast as 1 piece. this motor had a different rats nest, different ignition coil brackets, different hard fuel line pipes, but did not have the 99 style c-clamps on the turbo housings.

 

Yes. You need the top from an S5 filler neck and a .9 bar (13 psi) cap. Personally I don't recommend the 16 psi cap as mentioned in that link. IMO, the best way to delete the AST is to get a NPT tap and plug old nipple. Then plug the nipple on the bottom end tank of the radiator (see picture below). But most probably just use a section of good hose, and bolt for a plug and a couple of clamps.
If your car doesn't have an overflow tank or an avenue of expansion for the coolant, I would get that S5 kit ASAP. Not having one will unnecessarily raise the pressure in your cooling system. Fine for not boiling over, but it's also putting strain on things like hoses and most importantly, coolant seals.
Get in touch with Ray @ Malloy Mazda https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mazda-1033616/
He's a well known and reliable source for OEM parts on this forum and an FD owner himself. Tell him you want to delete the AST and he'll know exactly what you need and send it out in 'kit' form.

 

Ok so after reading what you wrote I attempted a fix. I swapped the filler neck I have with the nipple under the cap to run to an overflow reservoir. Capped the ast and this was my result. Oh and as per your suggestions I went with a 13psi cap from the parts store.

 

I also did notice when changing the necks, it was disgusting in there. A ton of Orange rust colored corrosion. Should this have me alarmed? Also thanks sgt so much for that detailed reply. Gave me all the info I needed

 

any opinions on low temp thermostats? good or not? which one? together with adjusted PFC fan start temps I think it can be of benefit.

opening starts at:

stock: 82C

Mazmart: 76C

sard: 75C

Mishimoto: 68C

I run Evans at low pressure.

 

Then I'd also change coolant asap too. Probably mentioned earlier in this thread, but it goes acidic over time and the corrosion inhibitors degrade. Hard on water pumps, gaskets, hoses and those same coolant seals. And know that in addition to draining the radiator there is a drain on the left side of the block in the intermediate iron. Use as much distilled water as you can safely get away with where you live, but keep at least 20% coolant.

 

Ok. I did just that, and I'm having a WORLD of overheating problems that never existed before i added the overflow tank (as I know I should). My symptoms are that my overflow tank just never stops overflowing. It slowly all leaks out while driving and I hear boiling water and bubbles upon shutdown. I have pressure tested the cooling system, and the results were both no leaks external or internal (overnight). Pulled plugs, bone dry and didn't lose one psi of pressure. I even hydrocarbon tested my coolant for the presence of exhaust gas (coolant seals) and passed with flying colors.. and as per the reccomendation of Cam at Pettit, I held 5psi with a pump to the filler neck and cranked my car. He said his method for testing cooling seals the pressure would build/jump to 10psi+ as exhaust would pressurize the system. Again, I passed with flying colors. I have tried deleting the ast with the black nipple neck to overflow, I even tried adding an AST, tried multiple pressure caps with no luck. No white smoke, no hesitant starts EVER, hot or cold, and no internal or external coolant leaks. I'm so lost right now. Please anyone help !

 

hey, you may want to start your own thread on these issues. I moved your old thread from the newbie section to this one.