Best setup for best response.
#1
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
Best setup for best response.
I'm throwing this question out here becasue I want to know what the guys with the shops will say on this one and anyone else out there looking for the same.
What is the best setup to get the best response from the engine. Meanning minimum turbo lag, best accel, and all around good power through the band? On a twin turbo set up. Other then reducing weight on the car. Which I've already done the best I can by ripping everything form the interior out and getting rid of all the plastic bs and equipment I don't need like the A/C and the air pump. I plan to buy a carbon fiber hood and probably the hatch as well to reduce weight even further. Mid pipe will without a doubt reuce weight even further. But as far as a engine setup goes. making anywhere form 300-340 hp? If you can get even better response at higher horse powers please feel free to put your two cents in.
What is the best setup to get the best response from the engine. Meanning minimum turbo lag, best accel, and all around good power through the band? On a twin turbo set up. Other then reducing weight on the car. Which I've already done the best I can by ripping everything form the interior out and getting rid of all the plastic bs and equipment I don't need like the A/C and the air pump. I plan to buy a carbon fiber hood and probably the hatch as well to reduce weight even further. Mid pipe will without a doubt reuce weight even further. But as far as a engine setup goes. making anywhere form 300-340 hp? If you can get even better response at higher horse powers please feel free to put your two cents in.
#2
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
What do you mean by 'response?' Throttle response? I'll try to answer as best as I can.
For min turbo lag stay with the stock seq twins--they will support your hp goals. If you have removed the p/s and a/c you only need one of the stock crank pulleys---remove the smaller one, they are oriented one inside of the other from the factory, if that makes sense.
As far as weight reduction, the best thing you can do is junk the entire stock exhaust system and run with no cats and a nice lightweight catback like a greddy to. A c/f hood will save you like 5 pounds (I am estimating) over stock so based just on weight savings def is not worth it in my opinion. They seldom fit well and also don't take well to painting.
For min turbo lag stay with the stock seq twins--they will support your hp goals. If you have removed the p/s and a/c you only need one of the stock crank pulleys---remove the smaller one, they are oriented one inside of the other from the factory, if that makes sense.
As far as weight reduction, the best thing you can do is junk the entire stock exhaust system and run with no cats and a nice lightweight catback like a greddy to. A c/f hood will save you like 5 pounds (I am estimating) over stock so based just on weight savings def is not worth it in my opinion. They seldom fit well and also don't take well to painting.
#3
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Also, for increased throttle response it doesn't hurt to put some lithium grease on the portion of the thottle cable where it wraps around the moon shaped metal rocker. And removing the double throttle may be a good idea as well.
#4
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
M2 large caliper rear brakes with street brake.
Does anyone still carey the large M2 rear brake kit with the option for a street e-brake? I wa slookign at that a couple of months ago and now I can't find it anymore. Are there any possible replacments for this?
#6
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
I'm still running with a P/S. But I have hear dpeople liek the feeling of no P/S. For track and Auto X what would you suggest. And yes I ment throttle response. But through out the enitre power band?
Increasing tourque more than Hp would also increase throttle response would it not?
Increasing tourque more than Hp would also increase throttle response would it not?
#7
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Get a good ECU and have it tuned well by a pro. That should be the most helpful, especially if they can adjust the timing of the wastegate opening.
From what I've heard, increasing the compression ratio and decreasing boost will lead to a quicker response. Also shorten the piping after the turbo as much as possible (route the piping in such a way that it doesn't travel as far of a distance, and avoid using an intercooler that is too large for your application).
Keep the hot side of the turbo hot, with a heat shield or ceramic coating of some sort. This has been proven to decrease turbo spoolup times.
Good luck,
-s-
From what I've heard, increasing the compression ratio and decreasing boost will lead to a quicker response. Also shorten the piping after the turbo as much as possible (route the piping in such a way that it doesn't travel as far of a distance, and avoid using an intercooler that is too large for your application).
Keep the hot side of the turbo hot, with a heat shield or ceramic coating of some sort. This has been proven to decrease turbo spoolup times.
Good luck,
-s-
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#9
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Thread Starter
Yeah I have already decide to go with an ASP SMIC. I figured all the FMIC pipping would cause lag. But upping the compression woudl mean replacign the rotars with higher ones right? Should I go with an after market blow off valve? And besides the PFC as an ECU option, which I will most likely go with, does the MoTeC offer even more tunning precision becasue I have been considering it as well. And I have heard of of conserving heat to the exhuast side of the turbo as well. ActuallY think it was twins turbo that was doing it to a supra where they enclosed the heat side of the turbine with a heat sheald to keep the temps up becasue heat = energy= power right? Only problem I see with that is the damn thing over heating the oi....
#11
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by Xeros
Is it also true that an after market BOV with stronger springs will allow for better response in the turbo as well?
#12
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by Xeros
Yeah I have already decide to go with an ASP SMIC. I figured all the FMIC pipping would cause lag. But upping the compression woudl mean replacign the rotars with higher ones right? Should I go with an after market blow off valve? And besides the PFC as an ECU option, which I will most likely go with, does the MoTeC offer even more tunning precision becasue I have been considering it as well. And I have heard of of conserving heat to the exhuast side of the turbo as well. ActuallY think it was twins turbo that was doing it to a supra where they enclosed the heat side of the turbine with a heat sheald to keep the temps up becasue heat = energy= power right? Only problem I see with that is the damn thing over heating the oi....
#13
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Thread Starter
Not exactly building a street car though. Auto x, track and drift mainly. And each diffrent event I would think requires a fundamentally diffrent layout of the ECU maps. I belive it was mahjik who said some after market BOV's help turbo response https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/best-bov-383207/ . Anything else I can do to increase the response of the trubos as well?
#15
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by Xeros
Not exactly building a street car though. Auto x, track and drift mainly. And each diffrent event I would think requires a fundamentally diffrent layout of the ECU maps. I belive it was mahjik who said some after market BOV's help turbo response https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=383207 . Anything else I can do to increase the response of the trubos as well?
Rich
#16
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Thread Starter
I already coated both ends in ceramic paint.....hahah did that when I was rebuilding the motor. But yeah your right I guess it isnt exactly a ***** to the walls race car. I'm running a spec 6 puck. Where did you get your lightened pressure plate? And how do you like it as a daily driver? Oh what about a lightened drive shaft? does anyone make those for our car?
Mahjik. What about a smaller single ball bearing turbo running in the 300-380 range?
Mahjik. What about a smaller single ball bearing turbo running in the 300-380 range?
#17
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It seems like you are pretty new to the game. I strongly suggest you slow down a bit. The stock FD is very track capable as it is. Blindly replacing everything with a bunch of hodge-podge modifications isn't going to make you fast.....
Slow down and spent a few months researching. Drive the car at the track a few times.
Slow down and spent a few months researching. Drive the car at the track a few times.
#18
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Thread Starter
I understand what you mean but a lot of the parts have to be replaced becasue I am repairing a salvaged car. One of my struts is **** straight form the auction so the struts have to be replaced. The car was pretty muich messed around with when I got it DP, CB intake. I replaced the fuel pump because it was messed up and went witha higher out put model from denso. I got rid of the A/c becasue there is absolutely no use for it up here in WI. And I got rid of the air pump becasue well it was dead weight to me. I want a PFC to ensure the car doesn't mess up on me like going lean and then blowing the engine. Its not as if I am doing anyting insane here. My main concentration isnt even on power here but response and handeling. I have to replace a lot of parts thanks to the previous owner of this car. And I am not exactly aiming for hodge odge mods either.
#19
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good advice. An fd with old stock twins like mine is still fast enough to kill you. The car is incredibly fast. Don't just look at the times, look at it on the track. It pulls out of every turn faster than the rest.
#22
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I'm sorry I didn't mention this before but why was the double throttle put in place, and how much would it really help to take it out. Reason I'm asking is becasue I have the UIM off right now. And if you think it is worth the time, I might eliminate it. I've heard a lot about people taking them off but I havn't really heard of much gain. What is your opion on this GoodfellaFD3S? Since you mentioned it.
#23
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by Xeros
Oh what about a lightened drive shaft? does anyone make those for our car?
Originally Posted by Xeros
Mahjik. What about a smaller single ball bearing turbo running in the 300-380 range?
#24
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"So like I said and just as this thread stated I'm not looking for more power but better response from the throttle..."
Didn't Goodfellas and the other responses already answer that? Stick with stock twins and a decent SMIC and ECU like the PowerFC.
"and handeling."
I think Howard summed it best for you.
"I'm sorry I didn't mention this before but why was the double throttle put in place, and how much would it really help to take it out."
Check out the newbie links, scuderia. Been discussed many times before. Feel free to use the search button too. Then if you have any specific questions post them.
Didn't Goodfellas and the other responses already answer that? Stick with stock twins and a decent SMIC and ECU like the PowerFC.
"and handeling."
I think Howard summed it best for you.
"I'm sorry I didn't mention this before but why was the double throttle put in place, and how much would it really help to take it out."
Check out the newbie links, scuderia. Been discussed many times before. Feel free to use the search button too. Then if you have any specific questions post them.
#25
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
Aight thanks, and yes they did answer it, its just when Mahjik metioned the M2 upgraded turbos it got me even more curious. Then again curiosity killed the cat....