I have a pair of the Elites old version motor mounts .never used so not sure if there was anything better( besides the Full function ones) before i install the motor? or am i overthinking .

 

dont use their mounts... buy a different set from literally anywhere else.

 

As far as I know, Elite's are just regular lame puck style mounts that reuse the stock steel arm. I'd use OEM before I swapped to pucks personally.

 

New OEM mounts are the best.
If you want a stiffer drivetrain, your money is better spent on a Banzai transmission brace.

 

A lot of people use these https://www.irperformance.com/produc...-motor-mounts/

 

The irp mounts are good initially. Mine deformed and fell apart after about a year of street driving. They were installed correctly of course. I'm using the ones from himni now and other than having the motor sit super high, are great. I will be pulling my motor next year for a refresh, so we will see how they held up

 

I think if I had to change, I’d spend the cabbage for the FFE mounts.

 

Is there anything about the design or materials of the FFE mounts that better protects the actual bushing from heat and deformation/deterioration? Or do you say you would choose them for another reason entirely?

They look well made but I don't really 'get' the value proposition for their brackets over factory just from looking at the product page on their website.

 

I'm using the "street" mounts from Banzai. I didn't feel any more vibrations than with the OEM mounts and they seem to be holding up fine after 1.5 years.

 

Please elaborate here. Any theories on how the IRP mounts degraded in your case? When did you buy / install these? I have these on my car.

 

Well, I’ve been running a set of Noltec mounts for almost 15 years. They’re NLA now, but their design controlled movement better than OEM while isolating the engine from chassis by not directly bolting it to the crossmember. No added NVH. The FFE design appears to do the same. And I believe there were favorable reviews on it posted. They also come with a choice of firmness on the bushing and you can even get longer hardware if you’re running an oil pan brace.
I’ve ridden in other cars that had aftermarket straight forward thru-bolt design. Not bad, but even in the passenger seat they were a bit noisier.

 

A lot of guys in the UK use Landrover mounts. They're pretty much identical to FD mounts and available in poly for around $40.

 

Thanks Everyone tbh i was looking at The IR ones and the Banzai ones but i am intrigued now about the Landrover idea

 

There are some vendors offering Mazda Comp FC engine mounts modded for FD

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ts-fd-1143908/

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...8/#post5448682

Only things I do different:

- buy 3" urethane drops off ebay for cheap (mcmaster is many times what it should cost for pretty much anything)
- freeze the urethane before cutting it
- cut 2 1-inch sections instead of 1 2-inch section so it's easy to change out between mount arms and subframe
- I put a 1" section on the bottom of the subframe, not 1/2"

I have no engine vibrations and can make new mounts whenever I want from the same drop for about $50 initial cost. For me they're the "best".

 

It's just the nature of polyurethane. Especially cast polyurethane. The more heat/oil/moisture you add to the equation the worse it gets.

 

I have almost a year and a half with the IRPerformance motor mounts and they have been great, not any noticeable extra NVH. Also I don't drive my car alot, I have less than 5,000miles since the new motor mounts, the only drawback is that it will increase the height of your engine since the mounts are taller over the OEM ones.
Also their is some OEM heatshield around the mount from the turbo area that I have seen many people don't have and that can cause the mounts to melt.

 

Does anyone know which of the various motor mount options out there don't not raise the engine height up from the OEM position?

I currently have Noltecs as well and while they've been great, they did raise the engine a bit. I'm starting to make a plan for replacement and I would really like to find something that will place the engine at a slightly lower position.

 

on rhdjapan they have the supernow engine mounts with a description to be standard height and -10mm in height

 

I installed a set off FFE "soft" (68A) mounts last week and they created quite a large increase in NVH. I'm somewhat considering replacing them already. Note I was coming from stockers with a (surprise) broken driver side.

Maybe my experience would be different if the driver side stocker wasn't busted, but even with a Banzai tranny brace and street Power Flex diff bushings I used to get quite a bit of shifter movement. Now with the FFEs I get virtually no shifter movement.

The FFEs are 2-position adjustable, so even with am oil pan brace (if that's what you're referring to?) they keep stock motor height.

 

just get new OEM mounts.

 

How well do OEM mounts hold up to abuse? How about when the rest of the drive train is tightened up: e.g. trans brace + diff bushings? (Seems like that would put more stress on the motor mounts) I figured the stock mounts are relatively easy to break. Is that an incorrect assumption?

 

Don't expect the stock mounts to hold up to hard launches, especially if the car has good grip. So limit abuse or get aftermarket ones that vibrate more and maybe make weird resonance in the cabin. If you're going to do a bunch of other stiffening, keep in mind that the stock rubber is all tuned as a system from the factory. You might be disappointed with the NVH and also disappointed with the durabilliy. They might work well, they might not, depending on a ton of other things done to your car (exhaust system, suspension, interior, etc). The stock mounts are expensive enough that "hey let's see how this goes" is tough to swallow. I paid over $500 from Ray Crowe for a set.

For me, with almost completely stock car, I could immediately tell a difference when I replaced broken stock mounts with street aftermarket ones. The noise and vibration were way worse because I went from a system that was tuned to a system that wasn't. The car had 53k miles on it or whatever so it wasn't all wear and tear. So I decided to bite the bullet and get the stock ones and it made a huge difference in that case.

honestly I'm kind of over urethane anything on a street car that mostly sees fun back roads driving.

 

You are incorrect, they are not easy to break. OEM motor mounts are tough, reliable, and have minimal NVH. The pass side motor mount requires the OEM heat shield to be used.
Stock mounts are approaching 30 years old at this point. That's past their service life, replace them with new OEM mounts.
The banzai transmission crossmember will add additional drivetrain stiffness you desire, and less NVH added than poly motor mounts. This does add 5 lbs to the car but it's low CG.
The OEM differential mounts are tough, but once again, way past their service life. Replace them with Mazda comp or poly bushings. A solid lower aftermarket diff mount/cradle will add a ton of NVH.

 

Surely there must have been MazdaSpeed mounts at some point. This vendor claims to have them ($$$!): https://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/i...D3S&fromlink=2

I'd imagine those would be a good compromise between strength and NVH. I feel like I've heard Mazda tends to make these type of things "30%" stiffer than stock. Or maybe I just made that up.