best first mod (reliability-wise, not performance).
10-09-02, 12:36 AM
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Rotor Shaped Blood Cells
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best first mod (reliability-wise, not performance).
I have a bone stock FD, and was just wondering what u guys think is the best first mod to do out of the list of things to do before throwin performance mods; if u guys have a certain order of reliability mods, please let me know as well! I want this car runnin as bulletproof as I can get it,... and then I wanna pump the pounds up...eventually. Thanks
10-09-02, 12:45 AM
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Well, I HAVE A STOCK FD . The first mod I made was replacing the stock couplings. I mean the plastic rubber ones from the Y-pipe to the intercooler and on. The least of your worries will be boost loss... PS, get a boost gage, their easy to install and they will let you know whats up with your car!!!! 
10-09-02, 12:48 AM
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10-09-02, 12:49 AM
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10-09-02, 12:53 AM
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If you just got it, then change all your fluids and your air filter. Replace the stock plastic AST (Air Separation Tank) with an aluminum one, or eliminate it. Get a boost gauge. If your boost is out of whack, then maybe your vacuum hoses need to be changed. Get a 3" S/S (stainless steel) DP (Down Pipe). It lowers engine bay temps, improves power, and has been known to fix boost issues.
10-09-02, 12:55 AM
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Re: best first mod (reliability-wise, not performance).
Originally posted by Stevey629
I have a bone stock FD, and was just wondering what u guys think is the best first mod to do out of the list of things to do before throwin performance mods; if u guys have a certain order of reliability mods, please let me know as well! I want this car runnin as bulletproof as I can get it,... and then I wanna pump the pounds up...eventually. Thanks
I have a bone stock FD, and was just wondering what u guys think is the best first mod to do out of the list of things to do before throwin performance mods; if u guys have a certain order of reliability mods, please let me know as well! I want this car runnin as bulletproof as I can get it,... and then I wanna pump the pounds up...eventually. Thanks
-downpipe (run cooler!)
-bigger/better radiator (run cooler!)
-keeping the fans on (run cooler!)
10-09-02, 01:19 AM
#11
Rotor Shaped Blood Cells
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wow...thx for the replies guys. I guess I left out asking what brands to use.... boost gauges, downpipes, experiences with them... I think Im going to invest in a downpipe and a turbo timer very soon...Im tired of sitting and waiting for the motor to cool off. OH...and that downpipe, replaces the pre cat. will I still be okay for smog? not that I have to worry about it, but my car is running rich as is (I think) and I dont wanna make it any more gas inefficient than it already is.
10-09-02, 03:51 AM
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My order of reliability mods:
AST
downpipe
boost and water temp gauges
hopefully everythings ok at this point
I think a turbo timer is worthless. Letting your car sit there for several minutes getting hot isn't worth it. Just drive it easy the last minute or two and let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute. If you've really been driving it hard, let it idle with the A/C turned to 3 for a few minutes. BTW, if you can, open your hood after a highway or hard drive. It helps a lot.
IMO, there's no need to replace the radiator unless it's broken. Also, the fan mod is pointless to me as I drive around with the parking lights on, which kicks the fans on much sooner. I haven't had any overheating problems.
As far as brands go,
AST - any
Downpipe - any stainless steel one, although the M2 and Pettit are the easiest to install
gauges - your choice, Defi's are very nice
removing the pre-cat is illegal in California, you will still pass the sniffer but may fail the visual (not likely)
And yes the car will still run pig rich with a downpipe. The stock ecu maintains an A/F ratio of 10:1 or less for boosting and over 4000 rpm. Turboed rotaries need to run rich to prevent detonation.
AST
downpipe
boost and water temp gauges
hopefully everythings ok at this point
I think a turbo timer is worthless. Letting your car sit there for several minutes getting hot isn't worth it. Just drive it easy the last minute or two and let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute. If you've really been driving it hard, let it idle with the A/C turned to 3 for a few minutes. BTW, if you can, open your hood after a highway or hard drive. It helps a lot.
IMO, there's no need to replace the radiator unless it's broken. Also, the fan mod is pointless to me as I drive around with the parking lights on, which kicks the fans on much sooner. I haven't had any overheating problems.
As far as brands go,
AST - any
Downpipe - any stainless steel one, although the M2 and Pettit are the easiest to install
gauges - your choice, Defi's are very nice
removing the pre-cat is illegal in California, you will still pass the sniffer but may fail the visual (not likely)
And yes the car will still run pig rich with a downpipe. The stock ecu maintains an A/F ratio of 10:1 or less for boosting and over 4000 rpm. Turboed rotaries need to run rich to prevent detonation.
Last edited by rynberg; 10-09-02 at 03:54 AM.
10-09-02, 04:47 AM
#13
AST is first, IMO. You are likely to kill the engine if the AST breaks, but the other mods don't have as much urgency. New fluids, fuel filter, and a boost gauge come next. Then downpipe.
-Max
-Max
10-09-02, 11:23 AM
#15
Ex fd *****
Not a MOD per se BUT if you have not already done so, get the Compression checked and the coolant system pressure/leakdown tested, doing any mods on a weak engine and/or coolant system is a sure path to an early rebuild.
Mods:
1- AST REPLACEMENT (I don't recommend elimination)
2- BOOST GUAGE (will tell you a lot about the health of your engine)
3- Down Pipe (M2s is the BEST imho)
4- CatBack (Racing Beat Dual Tip is my pers. pick)
5- K&N filter in Modified Stock Airbox ( 10hp for $60 can't beat it)
6- Underdrive pully(s) (SR Power Pully) if you plan on extended High rpm operation (ie track/autocross) prevents cavitation in the water pump.
Mods:
1- AST REPLACEMENT (I don't recommend elimination)
2- BOOST GUAGE (will tell you a lot about the health of your engine)
3- Down Pipe (M2s is the BEST imho)
4- CatBack (Racing Beat Dual Tip is my pers. pick)
5- K&N filter in Modified Stock Airbox ( 10hp for $60 can't beat it)
6- Underdrive pully(s) (SR Power Pully) if you plan on extended High rpm operation (ie track/autocross) prevents cavitation in the water pump.
Last edited by maxpesce; 10-09-02 at 11:48 AM.
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