For those of us about to buy a downpipe, please give your opinion as to the "best".

Also, for your choice, please comment on:

1) Ease of install
2) Completeness (does it come with everything needed)
3) Fit/finish
4) Performance (does this really matter?)
5) Durability
6) Any other issues I need to think about


If this has been done before - Sorry I did a search on "best downpipe", and didn't find much (I thought it would be nice to have it all in one thread).

 

re-amemiya bar none.

 

Guess I left that one out. Why is it best?

 

Fock Corksport! Here is where i'd like to shove their F'n dam freeken f*ck'n DP --> lying bastards

Corksport didn't advertise theirs as an M2 replica but the owner assured me there was no stud issues, just like M2 when I asked via phone and e-mail ...yeah right!

Pettit - comes with replacement studs. Not a DIY DP in my opinion.

HKS- If you don't mind mild steel.
(it has a squished end just like the pre-cat)

RX7Fashion - Some one will have to confirm that this is a SS HKS replica?

RMS - Supposedly a M2 replica (can't confirm this)

M2 - has a different angle on the pipe
(worth the long wait & high price)

Panspeed and maybe a few other Japanese located company's make a HKS version in stainless steel for triple the cost.

top of the line - Mazdaspeed
stainless steel, squished end, dual pipes 2-into-1 just like headers but priced at $1k.

 

ooh i forgot about the mazdaspeed one, that thing's sick.

 

The pettit one isnt that hard to install. I did it myself at age 17 for gods sake! You just have to jack up that side of the engine a wee bit to slide it over one bolt. I didnt replace any bolts.

 

I don't have mechanics experience. My bro-in-law allways used to work on my car. Not everyone here has experience even at twice your age. I don't tell data entry users that computers are easy. Something is only easy when you have experience with or knowlegde of.

As far as Pettit's DP, I don't understand your reply. Studs are stock, not bolts. The problem is "not" slipping the studs through the holes of the DP but getting a nut on all four. If you didn't have any problems removing the studs that's great but there are 100 who did for every one of you.

 

sorry, I guess my comment was pretty ignorant. I didnt have to remove any of the 4 studs, I took a crowbar with a piece of wood inbetween the engine and the bar, loostened a motor mount and raised the turbo side of the engine up a bit and it allowed the downpipe to slip over all 4 studs (one of the studs is juuust to long for it to slip over without doing this ).


wait I just read on, so the problem is getting the bolts over the studs after the downpipe is over the 4 bolts?

Steve

 

I got the Bonez DP
Someone else installed it for me
As a consequence, I found it quite easy.

 

Yes, and the stud hitting the pipe.

The stud looks like a bolt without the head. The nut is what you screw on to the bolt or stud to tighten it down. The pipe bends over one of the four studs and actually hits the DP, preventing it from being screw down flush and tight. I can fix the problem using a rotozip thing and saw off 1/2 or 3/4's of the stud (sticks out like 2"). Some guys are lucky and can remove the stud to replace them with a short, high tempered bolt. The Pettit DP comes with bolts.

Here is the problem: You try to remove the stud to replace it with a bolt but it's stuck so tight it snaps off at the flange. Not enough sticks out to put a nut on. Now you have to drill it out. There is barely enough room for your hand much less a drill. At this point, would you consider this a DIY bolt on kit?

 

In my mind, Tripoint Engineering makes the best downpipe.

No issues whatsoever with installation and they had this figured out >5 years ago.

 

Any opinions on the GReddy 3" SS dp?

-Dan

 

goracer send me a pic of your avatar. i want a full size one.....not that little thing...PLEASE!!!!!

spoolin7@midsouth.rr.com

oh yeah, pettit dp

 

Did this happen after I left?

 

BTW, if anybody is interested, I will be selling my Jethot 2000 coated Tripoint downpipe in 2-3 weeks.

 

No, I tried to turn the stud but couldn't. I've allready heard the stories of it snaping off, so I gave up. RR&R said they drill all four out and replace them with high tempered bolts.

 

Now you tell me, uhg!

 

Question asked in Japan section:
Laujesse2

 

Remember any of the Japanese produced down pipes will not flow as well as most of the US ones. Not saying that they are bad or anything I had a Mindtrain, which was a copyof the, HKS one when I was twin.

BUT the Japanese downpipes are designed for RHD cars and that is why the collector is flat and crimped...so that it won't hit the steering colum.

Now on US cars you don't have to worry about it and so the US made down pipes can have a larger bend there.

Just my 2 cents.

Chris

 

N-tech, but that is the one I have and no problems.

 

do all dps have the o2 bung already welded on? and I've read that some have more than one welded on later is this true? and why?

 

All of them will have the O2 bunge pre welded before purchase. M2 will weld another upon request and additonal fee. Most others brands wont. The 2nd bunge can be used for wide band dyno tuning or for EGT.

 

thanks!

 

I have the N-Tech pipe. Fit was very good, studs are replaced with bolts.

BTW, for removing the studs, use a lot of penetrating oil, let sit over night, then take your time. They will come out.

Mark

 

ATR (A copy of the ASP)