I have old stock brakes. They are getting very very old. I want new ones. I don't have the much money so i was wondering of the options i have. My mechanic said to get Hawk pads and il be fine with that. Let me know your opinions
-Thanks

 

stock sized slotted rotors and either hawk hps (NOT hp+) or ebc greens, and stainless steel lines.

 

http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdbrakes.html

Bönez Stage 1 Pads

 

I agree that new pads are probably the best inexpensive way to refresh the stock brakes- which are very good BTW. Although I would consider stock caliper rebuild kits and hardware kits. The rebuild kits are cheap and will refresh your seals, dust boots and clips. The hardware kits will give you new shims and pad clips. I splurged on cryo'd slotted rotors and Endless stainless steel brake lines and SSS pads (package deal at AutoRND), but these aren't really necessary and the less expensive (but not cheaper) pads mentioned above will work great. My brakes were missing shims on the rear, the front shims were heavily corroded and the right rear caliper had the wrong kind of pad clip jammed into place. My dust boots were in terrible shape (although my seals still looked good) and there was no evidence of brake grease anywhere in my brake system. Speaking of brake grease, I recommend Pastelub- not expensive and has ridiculously high temp ratings.
Note: For the front brake hardware kit get the 4-piston 2nd Gen kit, it is cheaper than the FD kit even though the hardware is exactly the same.

 

I personaly prefer hawk HP+ pads.

 

tripoint installed hawk pads on mine. seem to work ok. but next time I'll just go with the stock mazda.

Jeff

 

what are your guys opinion on Xdrilled and slotted rotors?

 

I bought RedStuf, anyone have opinions on them?

 

If you ever plan to hit the track (road course), never used drilled rotors. If you are only going to be on the streets, then it won't matter so just get whatever looks nice to you.

 

This what I run on my RX-7. No issues at all. More than enough brake for the streets and autocross.

 

Drilled rotors are perfectly fine. Why do you think every high end super car and sport bike, dirt bike anything with race in the name run them?

AMG Mercedes
BMW
Porsche
Bugati
Ferrari
Lamborghini
Noble
Masserati

Before you make such a claim please have facts.

Use high end components, personally I only use 2 piece drilled rotors.

 

Oh no, not this again.

 

EBC PADS and rotors all the way green stuff. ran them for a long time low dust no noise great stopping power

 

Haha, why does this always come up? When you track your car you will crack drilled rotors. Its that simple. If you can afford them go nuts.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/more-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-480084/

However, there is a difference from the aftermarket 'drilled' rotors verses the rotors 'cast' with the holes (like Porsche and other exotic cars use). Not the same thing.

 

Helpful info. to know, along with some other responses as well!

 

I am not interested in what some forum ***** on the net think about brakes. To claim drilled rotors are bad is just false and irate.

I have been in the racing industry my entire life and actually race motocross professionally. Now also moving into super bikes. I am only interested in what is race proven. There is a reason we run 2 piece drilled rotors. When I grab the front brakes with 2 fingers at 195mph into a corner I am confident my brakes work and do not crack. If they cracked that is a good way to become dead!

I am frankly just discussed over all the kids spreading misinformation and hear say from forums and some magazine about products and brakes and drilled holes. Sorry if you take this post personally but it’s an aggravation of a whole and not you. “and the fact im in a really bad mood lol”

The real fact is your brakes have failed and people notion drilled is bad because of misinformation on here and the direct fact they use cheep products and they failed. What the hell do you expect to happen? There is a reason a professional brake system costs between 40,000 and 175,000 dollars and your friend in the FD with 800$ brakes failed. Stop blaming the design and blame the individuals stupidity.

 

I couldn't stand the squealing, it drove me nuts. The excessive dust kind of sucked, but I removed the HP+'s from my FD b/c of the noise. I'm currently running EBC yellows with cryo'ed powerslot rotors and s/s lines and pretty happy with my setup. I need to flush the fluid though, it's pretty damn dirty

 

really lol. I like mine. I have run the EBC green and red and liked them. I have a heavy foot or I apply more solid force to my breaking and they do not squeal for me. The OEM pads on my RX-8 squeal more they drive me insane.

 

I have personally seen cross drilled rotors crack at track events. It's more than a simple "myth".

 

Sorry, but it's not a "false and irate" statement. The reason that there is no instances of cracking with "drilled" rotors (actually, the majority of the motorcycle brake disc setups are not "drilled"; they are stamped stainless steel blanks that have the holes punched during manufacture) on motorcycles is because there is a huge difference in the amount of energy that must be bled off between a several thousand pound car and a 350-400 pound motorcycle. That energy gets converted to heat, and even with the comparatively huge size and thickness of car rotors, the amount of heat that an automobile disc must absorb dwarfs that of motorcycle. This is why ceramic matrix discs have found their way onto production cars, but still haven't been used on production sportbikes.

The reason you see holes in many high-end car discs is because-- as was previously mentioned-- the discs were cast that way.

There have been way too many instances of stress cracking with drilled rotors on cars that see heavy track use, FD or otherwise. And they weren't "cheap" products, either.

 

Well yea taking a drill and boring a hole in the rotor is retarded. When I classify a drilled rotor it is grouping a rotor with holes into it such as a drill like hole and not slots.

I only used bikes because it is a profession I am in not limiting myself to cars or automotive racing.

The main reason behind the brakes lasting is they are 2 piece brakes and not single. No high end brake will be a single cast setup. That is for street use drilled or not and will fail on the track.

 

Well, motorcycles are my primary profession, but I try and keep up with cars and automotive racing as much as possible...

There are plenty of single cast disc setups on cars that don't fail under heavy track use...

 

This thread is going to get intresting. stay tuned!

 

That’s not what I said. Anyways im done before this gets pointless and just argument bs.