woudlnt it rule out that myth if you just cryo the drilled rotors?

theyl be virtually indistructable.

 

autoRND is beginning to sell racing brake 2 piece rotors for the FD with convergent vanes that allow better cooling. theres some thread about it somewhere here. they currently come only in oe sizing, check out the autornd vendor section or head to racingbrake.com - if i were upgrading my brakes i'd be taking that route

 

Believe it or not but drilled discs like on AMG,Ferrari etc will crack as well. Maybe not Ferrari though because they are Brembo's by standard but anyway.

Reason mostly is to fast heating up to max temp and cooling down too fast.

People tend to be sitting at the pits warming up the engine and the hiting the track. Brakes need warming up as well. Either for trackuse or 'spirited' driving on the street.

 

Has anyone purchased rotors from Cquence? They have a website at www.cquence.net. The rotors look pretty nice for only 160. I got a recommedation from a few other people and said they were great with a 120 warranty. I was wondering with anyone here purchaes from them?

 

That pic looks like a $2 rotor cut and drilled in a garage. I have had Z-Speed drilled/slotted rotors on my CRX since '92 with no problems except when I tried green stuff. That stuff chewed up the rotors so bad I threw them in the trash (they suck). Anyhow, Z-Speed are directionally cross drilled as well as the slotts and the cooling veins inside the rotors. They serve a usefull purpose, not for looks. Those rotrs int hat pic look like ebay chinese crap drilled by kids "lol".

 

I'm not saying anything about drilled rotors in general. I'm not saying anything about the numerous performance cars and bikes that come with drilled rotors that may work fine on the track. I'm not saying anything about an FD that has stock-sized drilled rotors and never goes to the track. I'm not saying anything about FDs that are used on the track, but have large drilled rotors from a brake upgrade.

But, if you put stock-sized drilled rotors on an FD and you drive it hard on a track, the rotors are pretty likely to crack on the first track day, and are nearly certain to crack before they need to be replaced due to wear. This is not a myth. A lot of people, including me, have witnessed this personally.

-Max

 

I think that many people who use the "but Porsche does it, or Ferrari ect" argument are overlooking WHY those companies have holes in their rotors. I can only speak about Porsche since that is the only brand I am familiar with.

Porsche casts their rotors with the holes in them not because of cooling or because of increased gas release, but they do so for decreased weight. They looked at the benefits/risks and determined that is was more important to the performance of the car to have lighter rotors than the durability of the disc.

Anyone who has driven a Porsche on the street or the track will certainly acknowledge that they are not morons when it comes to creating brake systems, but please do not believe that since they have holes in their rotors it's a good idea to drill them in yours. They took the time when designing the system to compensate for the deficits of their "drilled rotors" by doing things such as running larger diameter rotors (than they would need to for a solid rotor).

 

Agreed with Kento and Max. I have personally seen a tracked FD with drilled rotors crack. Not sure what brand though..

I have a Porsche 911, Honda CRF450 and GSXR1k. The CRF is one piece (non-floating)front rotor unlike most of the other dirt bikes and they work fine for the track and 99% of the people out there. I think the main point of 2 piece floating disc is to prevent warping due to thermal gradients, not cracking. But you can't compare cast vented rotors to stamped bike rotors. Way different.

 

There are two main points to running a 2-piece rotor:

1) weight reduction, as the hats can be aluminum instead of iron
2) the ability to only replace the actual rotor section instead of the entire hat/rotor assembly

And yes, x-drilled stock-size rotors crack during track use. Period.

 

And why do you think they crack?

 

I think we should ask you that question. What is your explanation?

 

That’s why I got out of this thread and why I’m going to stay out. I shouldn’t have said anything on post 35.

The answer has been posted for everyone to read. I am not going to argue with anyone over reason why metal fatigues and brakes. You’re going to believe what you want to believe and argue that right or wrong. Tired of sharing knowledge for people to hack apart from what they heard from this one forum this one time at forum camp. Sorry for posting in the beginning.

 

I agree...

If you had $ ~ Porsche GT3 6 piston conversion....

 

Hmm, well....

 

Fact is your an idiot. You dont know what your talking about. People posting in this thread have true real life knowledge on the subject and you are still sticking to your guns defending your sweet arguement that "but ferrari does it". Face it, your wrong and thats all there is to it.

Your right, you dont need to post in this thread anymore cause you have already been owned like 5 times. Thanks for trying though.

 

Cgotto6 ouch man well damn why don’t they just higher you for the next break engineer for bear and design F1 brakes. You obviously have all the forum knowledge you need. Thanks for bringing me back in and the entire name calling thing was great.

 

You, my friend are a complete moron....
Read everything ppl have writen before you post (specially iceblue, since he was talking about Real RACE Life).

I've race with drilled rotors and know many ppl that race with them (hard or not so hard) in the Track (Estoril, Portugal) and the only time the brakes when bad were due to brake lines failing (stock) and pads wearing out... never saw one break at the track... but did saw one brake caliper piston get welded into the disc.... :P (pads were out, but he kept racing his ITR)

Always think Brembo's are worth the money. At least for the fact they're huge and make quality parts..
EBC Greens are great... Red are even better if you track alot and hard..
Hawks never tested them.... everybody talks good about them, so i'll give them a try next replacement.

 

Eh go figure the dudes profile puts him at about 19yrs old.

The only reason I wanted to stop posting in the thread is because it was heading towards arguments and would not matter if I was right or wrong or the other is right or wrong and unless a Ferrari engineer stops in, no one is going to provide sufficient information to change anyone’s mind. With that in mind the argument of a thread benefits no one in the group and only wastes people’s time.

 

If you want to slow down faster put stickier tires on the car.

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/more-drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-480082/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/do-rotors-lines-pads-really-make-big-difference-231994/

https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/cross-drillled-slot-brake-rotor-207758/

 

That’s true and good and all but this thread was never about stopping power or potential. It was over statements of "never use drilled rotors" and "drilled rotors are the reason they crack" and "drilled rotors serve no purpose" "If you have drilled they will fail"

 

iceblue,

Nobody is doubting that Porsche, Ferrari and other exotic cars use rotors with holes in them. What people are talking about is the available rotors for the FD which have holes in them have been drilled aftermarket wise, not cast with holes in them like the exotics have done.

We have all agreed (and you have as well) that drilling is less than idea so I'm not sure what the big deal is at this point. If there were true cast rotors with holes in them for our car, most likely they would be in a price range that 99% of the people wouldn't pay for them anyways.

Nobody is doubting that true 'cast' rotors with holes in them are useful. People are doubting the currently available 'drilled' rotors for the RX-7.

 

I am sure you are 100% correct on this statement. Outside of custom high end brakes there probably is no real good brakes for the car over the shelve.

I was only arguing the notion of drilled rotors in general on any car on any rotor. While also providing information on why to use 2 piece rotors and the fact high end brakes non ceramic will be 2 pieces always.

 

i recently saved a boatload on my car insurance by switching to geico! (im acually with geico and they seriously do have good rates)

on another note this is like arguing religion at this point lets quit it. this guy wants to hear more about PADS! lets just all agree that rotors are to be determined by personal opinion or to be discussed in pm.

im in the market to replace all of my pads soon... where can i get the shims? am i limited only to ray crowe?

what were looking at so far that i've gathered is that the ebc greens are good for street driving (dont need to be warm to work). ebd reds are good for track (need to be heated to seek benifits). and ebc yellows i have no idea. the hawks i heard eat paint off the car if you dont was the dust off immediately i think i read once.... anyone want to clarify this? please add some info and lets work together as a car community here

-Lance

 

FWIW I know a guy with a pretty much stock gt3 who tracks his car, he runs aftermarket 2 piece slotted rotors after having problems with cracking stock x drilled rotors.

For street pads I like the axxis ultimates - great bite, minimal dust, no noise, cheap and readily available.

 

Yep, the Axxis Ultimate is the best aggressive street pad I've come across too.

The Hawk HP+, EBC Reds, and other "street/track" pads do NOT work on the track. Maybe the first couple of times you go as a newb, but after that, forget it. You need real trackable compounds (PFC 01/93, Porterfield R4s, Ntech Lapping Day pads, Hawk Blues, etc).

I will never run Hawk pads again. They dust excessively, the dust is corrosive, the HP+ squeal under light braking, the dust from the Blues/Blacks can ruin your paint if left on the car and gotten wet, etc.