Best aftermarket motor mounts for street car?
#1
Best aftermarket motor mounts for street car?
So I'm looking to replace my worn out mounts..
I'm considering the following:
•Xcessive motor mounts which they offer 80a or 65a durometer.
•Banzai racing street mounts 90a durometer
•IRP mounts which he offers soft or hard material
•Or possibly the himni updated mounts (waiting to hear back on what durometer is used)
Just wanting to hear some feedback on how you liked the following mounts I listed.
They will be going on my single turbo rx7 fd street car. I do have a twin disc clutch/light flywheel as well. Looking for something that feels good for daily driving.
Thanks
I'm considering the following:
•Xcessive motor mounts which they offer 80a or 65a durometer.
•Banzai racing street mounts 90a durometer
•IRP mounts which he offers soft or hard material
•Or possibly the himni updated mounts (waiting to hear back on what durometer is used)
Just wanting to hear some feedback on how you liked the following mounts I listed.
They will be going on my single turbo rx7 fd street car. I do have a twin disc clutch/light flywheel as well. Looking for something that feels good for daily driving.
Thanks
Last edited by Rx7Jordan; 05-01-17 at 08:32 PM.
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (19)
I bought some IRP Street mounts for my FD recently and have no complaints. Definitely not harsh or anything like that.
Polyurethane Motor Mounts | IRPerformance
Don't forget you're also gonna need one steel motor mount arm. Our cars came with one steel and one aluminum. The aluminum one doesn't get reused, so you'll need to source a steel arm. I found a clean used one for here for like 40 bucks IIRC.
It's not only IRP, most aftermarket MM manufacturers will tell you to get another steel arm.
Polyurethane Motor Mounts | IRPerformance
Don't forget you're also gonna need one steel motor mount arm. Our cars came with one steel and one aluminum. The aluminum one doesn't get reused, so you'll need to source a steel arm. I found a clean used one for here for like 40 bucks IIRC.
It's not only IRP, most aftermarket MM manufacturers will tell you to get another steel arm.
#6
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
I really like the design of the FFE ones.
If that is too much $$ the Xcessive mounts also isolate the motor from subframe (which the others do not as they have a through bolt) while offering strength and are just $189.
I have the el cheapo poly puck style on my FD from when I bought it and the vibration was bad and unbearable with the AC on (shakes dash). I actually bought new stock mounts to put in (makes FFE seem a bargain $$).
If that is too much $$ the Xcessive mounts also isolate the motor from subframe (which the others do not as they have a through bolt) while offering strength and are just $189.
I have the el cheapo poly puck style on my FD from when I bought it and the vibration was bad and unbearable with the AC on (shakes dash). I actually bought new stock mounts to put in (makes FFE seem a bargain $$).
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#8
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Oh, talk to them about that.
It sounds like Xcessive have two different height ones for the difference between steel and aluminum arm or something.
They could get you set-up with the lowest combination of arms and mounts (like steel arms for both and the mounts for aluminum arms for both).
It sounds like Xcessive have two different height ones for the difference between steel and aluminum arm or something.
They could get you set-up with the lowest combination of arms and mounts (like steel arms for both and the mounts for aluminum arms for both).
#9
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
I really like the design of the FFE ones.
If that is too much $$ the Xcessive mounts also isolate the motor from subframe (which the others do not as they have a through bolt) while offering strength and are just $189.
I have the el cheapo poly puck style on my FD from when I bought it and the vibration was bad and unbearable with the AC on (shakes dash). I actually bought new stock mounts to put in (makes FFE seem a bargain $$).
If that is too much $$ the Xcessive mounts also isolate the motor from subframe (which the others do not as they have a through bolt) while offering strength and are just $189.
I have the el cheapo poly puck style on my FD from when I bought it and the vibration was bad and unbearable with the AC on (shakes dash). I actually bought new stock mounts to put in (makes FFE seem a bargain $$).
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (33)
Too bad Noltec mounts are NLA, they were apparently a great set for daily driving, just had to make sure they are shielded properly from the heat so they don't melt.
Vibra-techics is a newer-ish product...its also not a single bolt through puck design (like the Noltecs)...so should isolate vibrations well...kind-of pricey though
Vibra-techics is a newer-ish product...its also not a single bolt through puck design (like the Noltecs)...so should isolate vibrations well...kind-of pricey though
#14
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Not really. They are too soft for the application, especially on modified cars. There is also not physical bolt boing through the mount. It has 2 studs the rubber is cast around. Over time the engine torqueing against them and the heat pulls them apart. The passenger side one does seem to last longer though.
#15
OEM mounts are hydraulic (oil filled). The aluminum arm mount fails at a ridiculously high rate, I have had cars in the shop with less than 30K miles with no mods that have a separated aluminum mount. Mazda replaced it with the steel arm mount in 95, which made the actual motor mount replaceable. These still fail, but instead of separating from the arm, they split in the middle, oozing all the oil out. Basically they collapse, which is a very common problem even now on the RX8.
The OEM diff mounts are also oil filled.
The OEM diff mounts are also oil filled.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 05-10-17 at 10:17 AM.
#18
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Sgtblue
Is there a way to make OEM last? Seems like the failure rate was kind of high...and early. But maybe that was just with the aluminum arms.
Is there a way to make OEM last? Seems like the failure rate was kind of high...and early. But maybe that was just with the aluminum arms.
f128-39-040- Right side
f128-39-050- Left side
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs.../97CatComp.pdf
#19
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
Hard to objectively state "best" aftermarket mounts w/o trying all that's out there with no other variables. All I can provide is my experience with the xcessive mounts, and only on their fitment (below) because I've made substantial suspension mods so it's impossible to comment solely on the engine mounts.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nment-1085345/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nment-1085345/
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
I have the same "problem" myself. Car is a 94 with 35k original miles, and is pretty much untouched. But i got driveline slack, and after doing the Diff mounts, i guess engine mounts are next. But the OEM ones are expensive, and if i read this correct, prone to failure.
What Aftermarket stuff can i get that is as close as possible to the OEM softness? And where can i source the other steel mount?
What Aftermarket stuff can i get that is as close as possible to the OEM softness? And where can i source the other steel mount?
#21
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
An easy improvement that really helps driveline slop with no other mods is the Banzai transmission brace (the one with a bushing). I installed that before making any other changes (still completely stock at the time) and it really seemed to tighten up the driveline.
#23
Our Transmission Crossmember takes a lot of strain off the motor mounts as well as the diff mounts and PPF. It drastically reduces drivetrain movement without any increase in vibration.
Transmission Crossmember
Transmission Crossmember
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THE TECH (09-06-17)