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Being paranoid, coolant light came on

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Old 07-18-10, 05:30 PM
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Being paranoid, coolant light came on

Being a n00b again, I'm being paranoid.....

This afternoon I flushed the radiator and engine with distilled water. Some pretty nasty stuff came out so I was glad I did it at first. However after a test drive I'm kinda freaked out.

Here was my process:
Pull plug from radiator, waited till it all drained.
Added distilled water
Started car (heater on full blast)
Let car warm up for 5 mins.
Shut off car & let it cool.
repeat back to top 3 times.

after the 3rd time I added coolant, started it & let it run. Added some more coolant, then burped it 3 times. I went for a test drive (down the street and back) and I got about 1/2 mile and the add coolant light came on, and I'm pretty sure my PFC was saying 130*. I immediately parked it in my garage, shut it down, put some fans blowing on the engine bay. 30 minutes later I added maybe a 1.5 cups of coolant & burped it again twice. Would 1.5 cups of missing coolant really throw the low coolant light and let the temps jump up to 130*?

I drove it again and my temps are staying lower on pfc (~95*). I've also noticed that when I shut the car off and the pfc is reading 90-95, if I go out 5 mins later the pfc will say 110*+ before I turn on the car. Is this normal?

I'm being paranoid, I know, but being new to the car I'm worried I have already screwed it up. My pfc is showing ~-480 mm HG, which convert to roughly -18.9 inHG, so I'm sure my compression is still good. I don't see much much smoke, if any, of any color, when starting/running so I don't think I'm burning coolant. Still, the 130* has really got me worried.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06b-QEhOXY

Should I do some other tests to confirm/deny I screwed up the engine?
Old 07-18-10, 06:11 PM
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On my way to get a coolant pressure tester
Old 07-18-10, 06:25 PM
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Just sounds like there's air bubbles in the system. Take a 2 liter bottle fill it up with distilled water, and tape the opening where the cap is so it fits snug on your water pump housing opening. Flip it quick and connect it.... air bubbles should eventually start coming out of the system. give it a couple squeezes as well...but keep it snug on the opening as not to spill coolant everywere. Do it when the car is cold, then warm it up and about halfway disconnect it. Do it a few times over and over..
Old 07-18-10, 07:03 PM
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I was using this to burp the radiator/coolant system:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

Tried to use the coolant pressure tester, but the fitting was too big and didn't come with any adapters. I'll take it back tomorrow and try a different store.
When I pulled the cap off, there was a little bit of coolant missing, maybe a 1/4 cup that I refilled. Hopefully that was just bubbles in the system and not coolant I burnt.

***fingers crossed***
Old 07-19-10, 02:26 AM
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well do you see white smoke from your exhaust? and smell coolant (sweet exhaust smell)?
Old 07-19-10, 02:46 AM
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I agree that it sounds like there's still air in the system inhibiting circulation.

If the AST was shut while you were burping the system, that would explain the initial 130 degrees on PFC.

While replacing the coolant, keep the air separator tank open, otherwise air in the system will block the coolant from circulating. Cap the AST when you think the system is almost full. The following day, with the engine cold, fill the coolant level to the top, cap it, and you should be straight.
Old 07-19-10, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mannykiller
well do you see white smoke from your exhaust? and smell coolant (sweet exhaust smell)?
I don't see white smoke. I tried to use my camera this morning to record the exhaust after sitting for a night, but I forgot to push the dang recrod button.
My nose is not very good at smelling...It smells like an exhaust but couldn't tell you if it was sweet or not.

This afternoon I'll be getting a replacement coolant pressure tester, that should give me a definitive answer.


Originally Posted by juicyjosh
If the AST was shut while you were burping the system, that would explain the initial 130 degrees on PFC.
I don't have an AST.
Old 07-19-10, 01:37 PM
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Got a better tester kit from a different parts store at lunch. I'll learn for sure tonight if I have a coolant leak.
Old 07-19-10, 09:00 PM
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When I hooked it up, I set it at 20 psi.
I just checked it (about 2 hours later) and it lost about .5 psi.

Is this bad? how bad?

I'm also gonna leave it set overnight.
Old 07-19-10, 10:35 PM
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I really think its fine man...... theres just still air in the system. did you try the 2 liter bottle trick? "Take a 2 liter bottle fill it up with distilled water, and tape the opening where the cap is so it fits snug on your water pump housing opening. Flip it quick and connect it.... air bubbles should eventually start coming out of the system. give it a couple squeezes as well...but keep it snug on the opening as not to spill coolant everywere. Do it when the car is cold, then warm it up and about halfway disconnect it. Do it a few times over and over.. "

It takes a while to get all that air out of the system man... You should also think about deleting the water line to your throttle body as it's the highest point in your motor...ei.where air will sit and collect. Keep adding water/coolant man.
Old 07-19-10, 10:42 PM
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Did you drain the block as well? There's a 14mm head bolt on the driver's side bottom of the intermediate iron.

I agree that it sounds like trapped air. Google 'Lisle Funnel'
Old 07-19-10, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Did you drain the block as well? There's a 14mm head bolt on the driver's side bottom of the intermediate iron.

I agree that it sounds like trapped air. Google 'Lisle Funnel'
lisle funnel or a 2 liter bottle or something big.....
Old 07-19-10, 10:54 PM
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There are a few important differences between a Lisle Funnel and a 2 liter bottle of coke
Old 07-19-10, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Did you drain the block as well? There's a 14mm head bolt on the driver's side bottom of the intermediate iron.

I agree that it sounds like trapped air. Google 'Lisle Funnel'

What does he need to google it for if he is already using one



To the OP, there is definitely still air in there. I recently flushed my coolant as well and had the same problem. The Lisle funnel just was not getting all the air out.

You can try the throttle body coolant hose trick if you still have it. Search for this one, it has been covered plenty of times.

I also like to pump the radiator hoses when I am filling the coolant. That helps get some air bubbles out.

Just fill it up as much as you can and drive around the block a couple times keeping an eye on the temps. Let it cool down and top it off. Repeat.
Old 07-19-10, 11:21 PM
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Used properly, a Lisle funnel ensures a minimum of trapped air in my experience.

I didn't watch the vid, but based on his sky high temps i assumed he didn't have one.
Old 07-19-10, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Used properly, a Lisle funnel ensures a minimum of trapped air in my experience.

I didn't watch the vid, but based on his sky high temps i assumed he didn't have one.
Agreed, definitely a must have for anyone who works on their own cars I believe it was the air separator tank that was giving me problems.
Old 07-20-10, 12:03 AM
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thats why i prefere a 2 liter bottle haha... because you can slightly jolt the system by squeezing it... I've done it a several times before and everytime squezing or jolting the system causes air to be displaced...and it comes to the top...
Old 07-20-10, 07:10 AM
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About 10 hours later and I lost a total of 3 psi in the system. I pulled the gauge, put on the cap, and started it up. No smoke whatsoever. So if there is a leak, it's not an internal leak, because that should've forced plenty of coolant to burn if there was a leak...right?

I didn't drain the block.

I have been using the lisle funnel (see post #4).

I feel a lot better now. Yesterday I was searching for places to call up for a rebuild, looks like I was really just being paranoid. Thanks for all the help.
Old 07-20-10, 01:49 PM
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keep adding water/coolant....is it still low when you take off the AST cap?
Old 07-20-10, 03:27 PM
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Oh no , not the "add engine light "
Old 07-20-10, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mannykiller
keep adding water/coolant....is it still low when you take off the AST cap?
Don't have an AST.
Old 07-20-10, 04:30 PM
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hmmm... well is it still low on the water filler neck? not the plastic resevoir but the actual capped coolant filler on the motor?
Old 07-20-10, 04:43 PM
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Last night before I put on the pressure tester, coolant was filled up to the very top of the cap. After I took off the pressure tester this morning (and lost 3 psi in the system somewhere), the level was about 1.5 inches below the cap.

Should the fluid level stay all the way to the top, or would it push that little amount of coolant out to the resevoir tank?
Old 07-20-10, 05:00 PM
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it should be pretty consistent.....if it's low then there's still air in the system and it's collecting where there is still room..i.e that cap and other highest points in the system. Use the lisle funnel until temps are more consistent...it's a long process especially since you don't have an AST anymore.
Old 07-20-10, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JhnRx7
...To the OP, there is definitely still air in there. I recently flushed my coolant as well and had the same problem. The Lisle funnel just was not getting all the air out.

You can try the throttle body coolant hose trick if you still have it. Search for this one, it has been covered plenty of times...
Originally Posted by mannykiller
it should be pretty consistent.....if it's low then there's still air in the system and it's collecting where there is still room..i.e that cap and other highest points in the system. Use the lisle funnel until temps are more consistent...it's a long process especially since you don't have an AST anymore.
Even though I still have the AST, disconnecting the TB coolant hose until coolant runs out while filling to get the majority of the air out of the system is a huge help in purging.


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