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Battery reloctation......."homemade"?

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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 03:06 PM
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Question Battery reloctation......."homemade"?

Hey guys..........

So I got to thinking today and what I was thinking about started to scare me. I want to relocate my battery and change it out for a dry cell. anyway I'm not quiet the electrician of the year. So I was wondering if anyone has made their own relocation kit and done a write-up on it. oh ya, I'm a lazy slob and that's why I didn't search.

thanks dudes, Matt
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 03:27 PM
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All you really need is a good length of 4 gauge stereo power wire to go from under the hood to the rear bin, or trunk...

I haven't done this yet, but will very soon.

You'll need good connectors for the ground and things like that, but I don't know the exact sizes.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 03:30 PM
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I relocated my battery without buying a kit. I used 4 gauge cables for postive and ground. I just hooked up the 4gauge positive to the fusebox where it connected to the battery before and the ground someone back around the bin area. I installed the drycell into the passenger side bin.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 03:34 PM
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Garfinkle has done this , he uses welding cable . a customer came with a Pettit kit , the small wire with that is in a storage box were it belongs. do solder all your connections.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 04:07 PM
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No need to run the wire all the way back up front. Pettit just hooks the + cable up to the starter.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 04:12 PM
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Originally posted by Lost Time
No need to run the wire all the way back up front. Pettit just hooks the + cable up to the starter.
Really? You have an illustration by chance?
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 04:29 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys......There wouldn't happen to be some kind of diagram would there. Again, I want to emphasize that I am very new to all this stuff.

Matt
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 05:22 PM
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Originally posted by jdhuegel1


Really? You have an illustration by chance?
Of what exactly? Just mount the battery wherever you want it. Then run the - to the nearest good ground. Then run the + to the hot side of the starter. All done.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 05:42 PM
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Originally posted by Lost Time
No need to run the wire all the way back up front. Pettit just hooks the + cable up to the starter.
yes. this all you need to do. makes for a cleaner install, and shorter length of cable needed. the wire to the starter goes to the fuses anyway.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 05:50 PM
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Oh okay guys......Thanks for all the absolutly joyous information.

Matt
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 05:52 PM
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oh and when am I going to be an "Insane Burnout"
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 05:52 PM
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.........oops I really didn't mean to post this. I know I know, I'm a post *****.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 06:14 PM
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post *****. you will be...once youget the hell out of the garage.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 06:20 PM
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Does it strike any of you as odd/wrong that the Pettit kit goes straight to the starter and doesn't go through the fusebox (like the stock battery stuff does)? That sort of scares me, considering the propensity of our cars to catch on fire to begin with. The last thing I need is something wierd to happen and have a fire caused by something that was wired without any foresight in mind. Just my $.02, but I'm also curious about the battery relo because of the possibility of me getting a bigger IC in the future.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 08:21 PM
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Originally posted by SanJoRX7
because of the possibility of me getting a bigger IC in the future.
Thats the problem I have, I just got a front mount. Now that you bring that up it kind of freaks me out also. How do the kits wire it? is there a problem with going to the starter? thanks guys

Cheers

PS. I'm moving my computer to garage.
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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 11:02 PM
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Originally posted by SanJoRX7
Does it strike any of you as odd/wrong that the Pettit kit goes straight to the starter and doesn't go through the fusebox (like the stock battery stuff does)?
nope. actualy it make a lot of sence to me. in my case i dont want steel braided fuel lines running up that tight space cutting into a HOT wire causing the steel to fray away after it has rub enough insulation off the HOT wire to cause the rubber below it to melt, in the end causing a total catastorphy. fuel and sparks dont mix.

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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 11:04 PM
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that is anthonyNYC car. a similar situation happened to this car. (maybe not exactly as i described...but you get the idea.
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 02:55 AM
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YOU can run the battery cable in the rocker pannel away from the fuel lines with out any rubbing wire failures
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 08:25 AM
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use 2gauge or lower!
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 01:20 PM
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Originally posted by skunks
use 2gauge or lower!
didn't they just say 8 guage
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Old Dec 22, 2002 | 08:21 PM
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screw 8 guage ,go 2 or lower Get the job done , also get bigger ground wires .
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 12:26 PM
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What I did (FWIW).

http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm

To summarize: $200 for everything incl. an Optima
Red Top battery.

BTW Don't sweat the install. Most of my troubles centered around the roll bar which always seemed to
be in the wrong place.

Regards,
Crispy
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 02:08 PM
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For those, like me, afraid of a non-fused connection to the starter, simply put a large (power amp stereo system type) fuse (mine is a 150 amp) in-line with the + power cable. That way any problem or exposed wire blows the fuse and no increased risk of fire.

Last edited by jeff48; Dec 23, 2002 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 02:55 PM
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if i were to go with the m2, would i have a harder time powering my 1700w sound system ? if so, what battery should i use. m2 uses 2 guage why did some of you say 8 guage?
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 07:08 PM
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so if you have a fuse in line to the starter it should be ohkey-dohkey?

Matt
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