Battery reloctation......."homemade"?
12-24-02, 05:33 PM
#26
If you guys plan on drag racing the car you cant just relocate the battery to the bin even if its a dry sell battery. You might not pass tech inspection if they are picky. for our cars since its a hatchback with no barrier between the trunck and cabin the battery has to be in a totally sealed container with a vent tube out of the car. At least thats what the tech at sears point told me. I bought the only kit that i know of that is nhra leagal the morosso bin which was around $100 without cables. And running a fuse would be a good idea also. And for the ground wire your battery might not charge up fully if its not routed back to the engine block, i've notice that in a few cars that ive seen, the cars crank really slowly but once the ground wire was routed back to the block everything was find. But for some reason some cars run find without routing the ground wire back to the block.
12-24-02, 08:43 PM
#27
The reason that the cars dont' charge right if they're not grounded back to the block is that people probably aren't grounding them right. For most of the body it's painted, which means that you have to sand the grounding spot down, and unless you do a really good job, or have a pre-sanded/prepared spot, you might not ground fully.
Grounding back to the block is always a good idea, particularly on the 3rd gens since we already know that grounding issues can cause things like 3krpm hesitation, etc. Do it right the first time and never worry about it again
Patrick
Grounding back to the block is always a good idea, particularly on the 3rd gens since we already know that grounding issues can cause things like 3krpm hesitation, etc. Do it right the first time and never worry about it again
Patrick
12-24-02, 10:30 PM
#28
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Originally posted by jeff48
For those, like me, afraid of a non-fused connection to the starter, simply put a large (power amp stereo system type) fuse (mine is a 150 amp) in-line with the + power cable. That way any problem or exposed wire blows the fuse and no increased risk of fire.
For those, like me, afraid of a non-fused connection to the starter, simply put a large (power amp stereo system type) fuse (mine is a 150 amp) in-line with the + power cable. That way any problem or exposed wire blows the fuse and no increased risk of fire.
01-05-03, 11:22 PM
#29
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Originally posted by rx7will
If you guys plan on drag racing the car you cant just relocate the battery to the bin even if its a dry sell battery. You might not pass tech inspection if they are picky. for our cars since its a hatchback with no barrier between the trunck and cabin the battery has to be in a totally sealed container with a vent tube out of the car. At least thats what the tech at sears point told me. I bought the only kit that i know of that is nhra leagal the morosso bin which was around $100 without cables. And running a fuse would be a good idea also. And for the ground wire your battery might not charge up fully if its not routed back to the engine block, i've notice that in a few cars that ive seen, the cars crank really slowly but once the ground wire was routed back to the block everything was find. But for some reason some cars run find without routing the ground wire back to the block.
If you guys plan on drag racing the car you cant just relocate the battery to the bin even if its a dry sell battery. You might not pass tech inspection if they are picky. for our cars since its a hatchback with no barrier between the trunck and cabin the battery has to be in a totally sealed container with a vent tube out of the car. At least thats what the tech at sears point told me. I bought the only kit that i know of that is nhra leagal the morosso bin which was around $100 without cables. And running a fuse would be a good idea also. And for the ground wire your battery might not charge up fully if its not routed back to the engine block, i've notice that in a few cars that ive seen, the cars crank really slowly but once the ground wire was routed back to the block everything was find. But for some reason some cars run find without routing the ground wire back to the block.
Marc
01-07-03, 11:35 AM
#33
Originally posted by mmonaco
Anyone?
Anyone?
I ran the 0 gauge power wire through the hole in the firewall near the brake booster, through the interior along the sill edge. The problem that I've noticed with relocating the battery is that of ground loop. Tried Taylor ground wire; tried running a ground wire next to the power wire, that helped alot but no room in the sill. Next, I tried two ground loop isolator and that got rid of 99% of the alternator whine.
Battery is a drycell for a BMW 1200cc motorcycle. B/c of the cool trunk, it is still going after 2 years whereas I was replacing battery every year in the front.
01-07-03, 12:35 PM
#36
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Sorry but those are the crapiest pictures that I have ever seen; very very unclear.
Anyway, I ran a 2 gauge up drivers side and through the firewall (protected the wire of course) and did something a lot like Crispeed's site shows. the battery is in the passenger side bin with some bolts to hold it in. Furthermore, I just added a battery quick-disconnect because I have problems with the battery dieing all the time if the car just sits. I will try and have pics of as much of this as possible.
Anyway, I ran a 2 gauge up drivers side and through the firewall (protected the wire of course) and did something a lot like Crispeed's site shows. the battery is in the passenger side bin with some bolts to hold it in. Furthermore, I just added a battery quick-disconnect because I have problems with the battery dieing all the time if the car just sits. I will try and have pics of as much of this as possible.
01-07-03, 01:04 PM
#37
Originally posted by ttpowerd
Sorry but those are the crapiest pictures that I have ever seen; very very unclear.
Sorry but those are the crapiest pictures that I have ever seen; very very unclear.
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