Can you explain what the purpose of the extra fuses in the bin are used for? Are they used for powering things like amplifiers?

 

It's in the link. He ran lines up to the dash and terminated them with molex style connectors for accessories.

 

VERY nice write-up! I'll be relocating mine soon. This in an excellent template. Though I won't need the extra wiring going to the dash.

 

hey N3philum, did you bolt that battery down to the chassis too or did you bolt it down to the bin only.

 

I am very impressed. Very nice/clean install. I really like what you did with the ground, I may have to copy that.

 

Through the bin to the chassis. Even if I hadn't, that thing isnt moving anywhere. I test fit it just to the bin but changed my mind and got longer bolts to extend it to the chassis as well.

 

I used that battery relocation document as well for mine. This is what i came up with. If your looking for the breaker box you wont visibly find it as its mounted to the bottom of the board there within reach so i can trip/reset it as needed.

The battery you may not recognize, i have a post on it here on the forum. Its a voltphreaks battery. Pretty much a giant cellphone battery. I picked one up while it was relatively inexpensive compared to the current prices. The newer versions of the batteries are real nice. as it will never leave you stranded. If you want more details on this, contact me, as i dont want to thread jack, just want to show how i designed the bin with that document and my choice of the battery.

Thanks for making that document, it was very helpful.

 

I added some text and a picture to explain these. They can be used for any ignition-activated accessories. I use them to power an auxiliary pump, a wideband sensor, and some gauges.

Each circuit can only carry a maximum of 15 amps, which is not sufficient for sound system components.

 

Here is a link to moconnor's original thread with lots of discussion on the topic for anyone who wants to read the history.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/battery-relocation-writeup-533616/#post5577123

FYI - It is linked to in the FAQ thread stickied in this forum.

 

Hey guys, been reading up on this and wanted to know where do you mount the factory ground at the front where the battery was originally? pics are great too...

Also is there room for a full size battery in the rear passenger side bin location? I know i have to hack it up just wanted to know if anyone put a red top or a yellow top (not 51r series) with the bins in place?

 

And on that note.... I just merged both threads so we don't rehash previously discussed info.

See posts and pics above Max

 

gracer

I looked all over those threads and it does not have a pic of the actual left over negative terminal from the front of the car or a good solid description of where to route the mount the factory negative wire!!! And the normal size battery i see pics of how much room but none of the actual successful install of that red top...Thats why i asked!!!

 

Excellent write-up! I'll be relocating mine soon using this as a guide as well. Look forward to your AI write-up!

 

You just leave it alone. zip tie it somwhere to keep it from flopping around.



I have no idea what you are looking for with that. Get a battery tray like the one that I linked to in my posts on Page 4 of this thread for the mounting of my Optima red top and bolt it down to the bin floorboard. Its not that complicated really.

 

Can someone tell me what battery tray tie down used in the versions mounted into the bin? Im buying all the stuff now and Im using the Westco battery.

 

Sadly, the link doesn't work anymore...

 

Hate to be the one to bring back a dead thread from the grave but this needs to be done:
http://www.ls1fc.com/pdfs/FD_Battery_Relocation.pdf

This should fix the dead link, well replace it at least.
Hope it helps someone.

 

^ Thanks for the PDF, I was looking for this write up to move my battery this Spring.

 

Thanks for the PDF, I'm pretty car savy but I have never relocated a battery before. I just got my FD and it's the first thing I want to do.

Thanks again for the write up, seems many people enjoyed it because it was the easiest write up to find.

 

original post was answered 3 threads ago sorry

 

Here is my ghetto installation. I don't have the storage bins (I can drive with 2 chicks behind me so it's better).

It holds really tight by the way!

 

FYI the original link to the DIY in post 1 is now dead

 

Here is a PDF of the write-up. I'll try to update the initial post with it too.

While I do not regret doing this relocation (particularly since I learned a crap ton doing it and have not been afraid of dealing with electrical problems on cars since), I would not do it again. It involves a significant amount of interior panel removal, something I have developed a strong distaste for. While it worked well in this particular case, this removal and reinstallation often results in hard-to-find rattles and many broken clips.

I did the relocation so that I could install a large (M2) intercooler. Since I did the relocation, many v-mount systems that work with non-relocated batteries have become available for the FD.

That said, this relocation has been pretty solid and the battery used in the installation is still widely available (for $150 or so).

 

No worries. I did my own relo but used your original post as a guide. I was going through my bookmarks and noticed the direct link to your original page was gone. I installed a greddy Vmount kit and the original battery location was moved by the previous owner but from what I see now, at least with a single turbo setup, I’m not sure where a stock battery would go with the Greddy kit but again, I haven’t had stock setup in my car since I’ve owned it.

 

Just went through all this. Antigravity batteries are tiny as hell, weigh 4lbs, and fit in the spare tire well in a battery tray. I bought a steel battery tray and welded that into the well. Expensive batteries, but for the weight, CCAs and not having to cut stuff, I'm happy for sure.

Less mAhs than a normal lead acid, but no cutting interior panels, just pulling cables to the trunk.