moconnor

iTrader: (14)

You are right. Even though the harness wire is fused, its current capacity is significantly higher than that of much smaller remote-on wire. I will install a suitably rated inline fuse close to the T-tap and update the write-up.

It is a little indirect. The second fuse panel could have been installed in the engine bay near the stock fuse blocks, but I could not find any decent place to mount it.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Lots of cars have batteries that are not located in the engine bay (e.g., Miatas, many BMWs and Porsches). Such cars always have a postive connection in the engine bay for jump starting. In the case of this relocation, the stock positive fusebox connection can be used - so this is a non issue.

Houdini

iTrader: (3)

Yellow top Optima 51R fits in the bin with minor clearancing. I installed mine in the pass. bin and routed the + wire under the bins to the driver's side. I drilled a hole to under the car near the plastic channel that covers the brake or fuel lines. Then I routed the power cable inside that channel and had it exit near the starter. The beauty is, you don't have to route all the way to the fuse block at the stock battery position. There's already a thick gauge positive cable that comes from the distribution block straight to the starter. All you do is terminate the new battery cable with a standard connector. Remove the nut on the positive starter cable stud, connect your new cable, and fasten the nut back on. There's a solid ground under the bins to terminate the negative battery cable. You can remove the original battery terminals and leave the distribution block as is. This method requires quite a bit less cable and it's a little cleaner than having to route through the cabin and all the way to the front. I can't take complete credit on this, terminating at the starter was a technique Rick(of Rick's Rotary) recommended. I didn't use a fuse breaker, mostly out of laziness and the fact that I couldn't find a high amp one locally, but if you run grommets and stay away from moving parts, you should be fine. That's why I went over the center hump while inside the car and then punched a hole underneath. I've been running this setup for well over a year with no problems. I bought a 1.5F cap to install next to the battery because there's still plenty of space, but that's been sitting around for 6 months. One of these days.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

I really like the idea of having a second fuse terminal there.

It gives you the option to run leads from the dash area straight to the disconnect-able (if that is even a word) points that you ahve now added. no splicing or anything. VERY CLEAN!

I like the whole layout. looks fantastic and was definately thought out. i will be doing something VERY similar.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Running unbreakered positive cable next to fuel lines is about the worst thing one could do in a battery relocation. If the cable and fuel lines are damaged in an accident you are almost guaranteed a fire as the battery dumps every amp it has next to leaking fuel.

The starter terminals and also the alternator terminals are fairly common points to attach the positive cable in a relocation.

Running a line to the stock fuse box is about the easiest part of the install because there is already a wire harness path through the driver fender and inside the engine.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

You could have a battery relocation kit proffesionally installed like I did, only to now find out the battery cable was run under the car, right next to the fuel lines. If you are like me, you'll also find out the cable was crimped and exposed in several places. How's that for safety?

Sometimes I think I have a "kick me, I own an FD" sign on my back.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Keep an eye on that yellow top.....read this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/battery-reccomendation-602665/

Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

Two things: 1) your choice of circuit breaker is not a good one IMHO. We’ve had a lot of problems with suitable automotive circuit breakers. Just an FYI.
2) You don’t have to run the power wire all through the car and engine bay like that. Just go down and directly to the starter.
Now with that being said...I think you did a great job and it looks very professional!
-J-

Houdini

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, but I didn't like my options in circuit breakers. The 200AMP ones I found looked kind of cheap. The last thing I want is to pop a circuit breaker while I'm driving and the battery cables I used had some industrial strength insulation on there, not that soft crap that audio cables have. I do have a fuse on my 5 channel amp for that reason even though it's less than 3 feet from the battery.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Em, you have a specific objection to it?

In my setup, it simply parallels the stock harness wiring going to the fuse box for about 2'. The distance down to the starter terminal is perhaps 8" shorter and there is no stock wiring path to guide the cable. I fail to see any advantage. And drilling a hole in the chassis and running the cable under the car is poor design IMHO.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Well, If you are driving down the road, then you are alright if the battery is no longer part of the electrical system. Not the best for it.. but you will manage. jsut don't turn your car off untill you are home.

Something you could always do is setup a warning light system that gave you the status of the circuit breaker. set it up where there is a red warning LED that comes on (very easy to wire up with a single relay and a diode) that will come on if the circuit is popped. The you know something is up and you know that you are running the car on direct alternator output.

But hey, i guess you probably don't like the main fuses that are in the engine bay in the stock location either.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Those 0-gauge cables are composed of very fine strand wires so are quite easy to cut. I bought the following tool at PepBoys for $10:



It is great for making clean cuts in vacuum hose too.

telum01

i have the Craftsman equivalent of that there tool, costs less than $20 and works awesome for a lot of things. made my hose job a lot less painful and i've cut a number of other materials with it, too.

mad_7tist

they do have a stock charging light

i dont get the problem everyone has with the line being sheathed and secured under the car under the plastic cover for the fuel lines.

also what peoples fascination with running the wire up to the fuse block and not stopping at the starter.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

It is absolutely fine if you do not get into an accident and both get damaged. It is an unnecessary risk and is done purely for reasons of laziness. How many factory wires do you see exposed underneath the chassis? (And the reason the fuel and brake line are outside is so that flammable fluid is not squirted into the cabin.)

You could probably not wear a seat belt for the rest of your life and not have a problem, but I would not recommend it.

If you look at the picture above you will see that it involves running 2' of cable along an existing wire harness trail - as opposed routing it in an area with no wire guides and several fuel lines. And installation, debugging, and later checking can all be done without jacking up the car.

Houdini

iTrader: (3)

Well, if you really wanted to, you could run along the tunnel inside the cabin and drill a hole at the end to exit where the starter is. Plus, if you have a circuit breaker, you shouldn't have a problem in the event of an accident.

On the same not, if people ar that worried about accidents, then they shouldn't run carbon fiber hoods or aftermarket steering wheels without airbags right?

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Even with a circuit breaker: It only takes a single spark to create a large fire when dealing with fuels.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Wasn't making any comment on your location, was just laughing at the way electricity works. In order for you to have a switched source, you have to have have a wire that is basically powered through the entire electrical system before it ends up... right next to the source.

Just thought it was funny.

I actually like the location of the extra fuse panel. It allows for additions easily and quickly, and outside of the weather. great work! And I will be using your install as inspiration for mine.

Your site have a full listing of part numbers used?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Question...

Why would one bother using a battery tray? Why not just bolt the battery to the body?

I'm using an Optima Red Top.

Thanks.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

um.

so as not to destroy the bin.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Bottom of the bin will be totally removed to accomodate the normal sized Optima Red top.

Kinda like this
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=195143

and this (half way down)
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm
More like Crispy's I guess.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Hopefully these pics and measurements helps someone out who might be wondering about how much space is available.

I was doing some research to try and see if I could fit a NHRA approved battery box in the bins so that I wouldn't ever have to worry about a track tech complaining about the battery relocation.

The Moroso box is 13" wide (left to right) by 10.5" deep and 9.5" in height.

The Optima Red Top is 9.5" wide at the base (left to right), 10" wide up top, 7.5" in height (measured to the top of the terminals), 6.5" deep at the base and 6.75" deep at the top. Quite a bit smaller than the Moroso box.

Here are some pics of the floor under the bins for reference. Hopefully these pics and measurements helps someone out who might have thought about the same thing. The Moroso box is too big all around. It will only fit in the trunk.

The Optima just fits in the space in which you see it. That area you see the wire protruding to the left of the battery in the pic is about 3/4" higher than the surrounding area. The pics also don't illustrate the curve in the rear of the floorboard very well. The Optima just fits from a depth perspective (front to back of car). Anything larger would need some kind of shelf to raise the battery up so it can be mounted evenly (and hopefully not sit higher than the top of the bins).

Going to try and finish this up tomorrow.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Couple more pics with the battery.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

This and Crispy's thread are probably the 2 best battery relocation threads on here. I'd like to add to it by offering an alternative in regards to wiring and mounting.

I never really liked the routing of the Positive battery cable that Moconnor and Crispy took (and others). The issues I had with the routing are as follows:

1. The positive battery cable only needs to go as far as the starter. Routing to the original location is just wasted cable, increased complexity, increased failure points (rubbing against something along the route) and increased cost. There is a cable already going from the starter to the fuse box. Why duplicate that? Plus I personally have never had any luck getting anything through that wiring mess near my left foot...

2. Routing the positive cable along the fuel lines (like Crispy did) is just a bad idea. You can easily run over a rock or other road debris (like Rynberg did) and rip things up. Why make it a riskier situation by routing high amperage power along fuel lines? I actually ripped up the fuel lines twiceon my e36 BMW and they run in the same location as the RX7.

I wound up routing the Positive power cable along the tranny tunnel [to the Starter]. This area is not directly exposed to road hazards (barely even any dust/dirt from 130k miles of driving) and has plenty of room for cabling and is not along side fuel lines.

The last issue I had was the cost associated with running the super duper expensive 0/1 gauge wire and audiophile quality cable connectors. Unless you've got a serious sound system, I don't think its worth it.

I was basically looking for a cost effective, safe and easy relocation using a battery that I could replace locally at a moments notice. After going through 2 PC680 batteries (available mail order only) mounted in the engine bay, I decided on an Optima Red Top from Sears.

Materials:
- Battery Cable: You need about 10' of positive cable and 1' of negative cable. I got 2 gauge cable from Summit Racing.
- 1 Rubber grommet for the 2 gauge cable (included with the kit from Summit).
- 4 "eyelets" for the 2 gauge cable. Summit's kit included 2. One for the Ground. One attaches the wire to the starter. The other 2 attach the power cable to the circuit breaker.
- cable holders and screws (included with Summit's relocation kit)
- Stainless steel screws to replace Summit's (hardware store). It is important to get stainless screws so that you don't have to drill a pilot hole when attaching the cable holders in the tranny tunnel. Summit's screws wouldn't pierce the sheet metal.
- Battery box/hold down: Here are 2 examples:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Polis...spagenameZWDVW
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I used a battery box b/c there is no way you can SECURELY attach the battery using only 2 points and J-bolts.
- 150 Amp Circuit Breaker
- Battery

Tools:
- Drill bits to drill holes for battery tray/hold down
- Power Drill
- Wire crimper/cutter
- 12mm socket/wrench for Starter bolt
- 10mm socket/wrench for the under body covers under the bins.

Once I figured out how I was going to wire it, this was super easy. I did it over the course of a Sat morning and early afternoon - about 4 hours going slow.

0. Start by disconnecting and removing current battery.

1. Next start in the interior by removing the side panels and bins.

2. Remove the rubber grommet on the bottom of the driver's side bin area (see pic). Replace with the grommet for the cable.


3. Cut the Positive side of the cable 18" from the positive terminal. This is the length that you will use between the battery and the circuit breaker. This will leave you with a long length of positive cable that you will use to route from the circuit breaker to the starter.

4. Terminate one end of the positive cable. Don't terminate both ends as the "eyelets" won't fit through the hole in the bottom of the bin.

5. Jack up driver's side of car.

6. Loosen the bolt on the Starter. You'll have to pull the rubber/plastic shield out of the way to see the bolt. Attach the terminated end of the Positive cable to the Starter and reattach the bolt. I oriented the curve of the cable so that it went upward alongside the tranny. See pic.


8. Route the cable along the tranny tunnel as pictured to the hole at the bottom of the driver's side bin. This is near the rear trailing arm.


Pic with the cable running through the hole:

You will route the cable above the fuel lines at this point. Note that this is the only point where the power cable intersects the fuel lines. Since it is protected by the under panels under the car and its 2-3" above the underside of the car I feel confident that there is little risk of accidentally mixing fuel and spark. See pic.
Routing along tranny tunnel:


9. Spray some fantastic on the 2 gauge Positive power cable and start feeding it through the grommet. Once you have it started, get inside the car and pull it gently through. I found it easier to pull than push and the Fantastic provided the right amount of lube to get it through and evaporated so that it wasn't oily.
Once you have most of the cable pulled reasonably tight, get under the car with your power drill and the Cable Holders and Stainless Steel Screws. It is time to secure the Positive Power cable. I secured it in 4 locations as you might be able to see in the pic above.
Here is a pic of the Cable Holder things:


10. Once the cable is secured under the car in the tranny tunnel, reattach the under body panel under the driver's side bin. 10mm bolts.

11. Mount the circuit breaker. I used sheet metal screws rather than nuts and bolts and mounted it to the rear wall of the bin. Can't find pic right now...

12. Get back in side and measure how much Positive cable you will need to route to the circuit breaker. Note that it is better to have the cable be lax rather than pulled tightly along the bin. Cut the cable and terminate the remaining end.

13. Next, attach the Ground Cable. I used a spot under the side panel where the factory already has a ground. Using the tip of a flat head screw driver, I scraped some paint off so that there was a good connection to bare metal. Its a 10mm bolt holding it down. Forgot to take a pic...

14. Jack up passenger side rear of car to drill for the battery box.

15. Drill the bolts for the batter box/tray. There are no fuel lines or brake lines under there so its pretty safe. Drill a test hole to make sure the bolt is coming through an accessible location.
Here is a pic of that area.


16. Bolt down the battery box.

17. Install the battery into the battery box and secure the battery hold down.

18. Get a fire extinguisher (just in case).

19. Attach Positive battery cables to the circuit breaker. Attach Positive terminal to the battery. Attach Ground or Negative battery cable to the battery.

20. Reassemble your interior.

Thats about it. Hopefully this helps someone. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

I did mine like moconner, except I ran the cable right down the drivers side underneath the carpet, plenty of room no buldge. I then ran it under the bin...
Excellent set-up and you cannot tell. No lines under the car everything hidden.

Sorry, I am not into running 12 volt power cable under the car...