^ Looks good.

You have white rear bins? Interesting...

 

Pretty sure they are tan.

 

I must be tired...

 

they look very very light, but still tan.

 

Nice install and nice writeup!

 

If you call HIFI Connection or e-mail them they have a kit with everything you need to do the install of the battery. Contact Tony and tell them it's for the 3rd gen RX-7.

The kit includes:

* 13 feet of RED "0" gauge cable (SPRO0R)

* 3 feet of BLACK "0" gauge cable (SPRO0B)

* 5 positive and negative connectors (PROBATTZPT)

* 5 Clear covers (SPBCOVZ)

* 1 Positive battery terminal (BTPS)

* 1 Negative battery terminal (BTNS)

* 2 plastic terminal covers (SBTCOV3)

* 1 SBC 150 amp breaker

* 1 Dual Foot Grounding Terminal (SGT0NPT)

We all can thank Moconner for the write up, pictures and contact for the parts.

sales@hifisoundconnection.com

 

Thanks for the new link. I will update the page on Monday.

The breaker is for the positive cable - if it is shorted somewhere on its trek to the engine fusebox the breaker will prevent lots of amps flowing through the cable, which could potentially cause a fire (and will fry the battery pretty quickly). Hence, its location as close as possible to the battery.

The stock fuses are electrically downstream and would not have any effect in this situation.

The reason for using at least a 150 amp breaker is that it must accomodate sufficient current for the starter.

 

Cool. This hardware is definitely worth it. While using generic auto store components may save $50, the install will not be as clean and the wiring will be a lot more painful (and soldering may be required).

Since installing this setup eight months ago I have not had a single issue with it, something I attribute primarily to the high quality hardware. I am also powering a wideband sensor, gauge lighting, and an aftermarket pressure sender through the power block (and still have four circuits to spare).

 

that setup looks clean. i will be needing to do this when i install my alarm..that tiny *** pc680 aint gonna cut it

 

This is a great idea! When i get my FD this mod is definatly on the list. Theifs often use a crobar to open the hood, then disconnect the battery... which renders an alarm useless. Also it probably gives a lot more room in the engine bay to better aranges engine mods.

 

does anyone know when optima will release their new yellowtops?

 

Got everything today. That cable is pretty heavy...

It'll have to wait for a week or so as I am building my motor at the momment.

 

Try this link as well as the e-mail...

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...l/fp/SFV/30046

 

The source for the battery...

http://www.westcobattery.com/miata.html

 

What is new about it?

 

to the threadstarter, your writeup is awesome! it will help me out a great deal in terms of the components needed to relocate my battery when the time comes.

thanks.

 

Anyone know how difficult it is to cut those thick battery cables to size and if you need any special tools other than a wire cutter?

Thanks.

 

there are Cable cutters that will cut wire like that as if it were butter. they took my uncles finger off pretty easily too.

then you'll need a crimper that looks like bolt cutters to do a proper crimp on connection for that guage of wire. a vice is not the proper method. then you use a torch and melt solder into the connector. but what do i know, I am only MECP certified.

But there are other ways that will work.

 

OOps, I also forgot to mention, those connectors you chose are GREAT!!!!!!!!

that would be my first choice aside from a crimped connector.

Don't know how I forgot to put that in there)

 

If you buy the HiFi kit you wont need a crimper as they have screws on the side of the terminals. You will however have to cut the wire but it's easy to cut through due to the fact it's very fine strand wire.

 

And that entire install is GORGEOUS!!!!!

 

Thanks. I've got a regular cutter/crimper from Sears. Hope that does the job.

 

Ok, not to nit-pick, but I am surprised that you did not fuse the switched lead that comes from your dash harness.

You have everything else fused, but that. technically speaking, the power for the relays is small, but your switch power at the harness is not. If that small wire were to ever short on anything, it would burn. A fuse located within a short distance of the T-Tap would be ideal, since that wire is actually powered by the harness.

a funny thought on that is this: battery relocated to bin. the switched power for your second fuse panel is actually coming from your ignition harness under the dash, which gets it's power from the main harness which is powered by where your battery positive cable is attached to (now) which is located RIGHT NEXT to what the switched power is activating.... kind of a big loop. there is no other way to do it, so this route is necessary, but it is still funny to think about.

 

Really Clean job..... but in case you need a jump.. its gon be a little tuff gettin back there.. . so i dunno

 

you can push start a manual...

Or setup up a jump point right in the engine bay since you ground to the chassis during a jump anyways.