oorx7

iTrader: (2)

If you decide to to relocate your battery. I highly suggest putting some kind of fuse / circuit breaker, near the battery.

I purchased an FD for a project. It had an engine fire and interior fire. After receiving the car, I had a chance to diagnose the cause. For what I can tell, the power cable grounded and caused a spark near the fuel lines. The fuse did not blow because it was installed in the engine bay, near the stock battery terminal. Apparently this person thought he could just use his existing amplifier kit and use it for a battery relocation. This is not a good idea unless you swap the fuse to near the battery.

Here is the engine bay shot. The red circle on the left looks like were it started. The red circle on the right is were the un blown fuse is.


Here is a shot of the interior.

Maglin

LoL... That sucks. Yeah it grounded out before the fuse so thus the fuse can't protect anything that is between it and the battery. That does look like a pretty big project man. I would assume you got a very good deal on the car.

Heisenberg

iTrader: (3)

That will buff right out

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Actually the exterior is in pretty good shape.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

WOW.

Doing a battery relocation RIGHT is not easy. Pretty much every car I've ever seen with a relocated battery did it crappy - wires aren't run well, grounds are weak, battery constantly has to be jumped, etc.

I'm BIG TIME not a fan of battery relocations, BTW.

Dale

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

I am going to be doing a battery relocation on my silver FD. I will try and take pics of the process. Mine will not be cheply done. I think I will have over $400 into it after I am done, including a battery. I am tired of small battery's and this is the reason for relocating.

BuffDaddy915

Hey brandon, when ur doin ur battery do a write up or somethin. I wanna relocate mine but dont wanna do it cheaply either.

Just to update u, my car is FINALLY gettin work started on it.

bryant

yellow or blue top is the only way to go.

Milwgearhead

haha. "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. . . . "

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

I have a write up here. Cost is not really an issue in a battery relocation. I got the highest quality components I could still spent only about $250 (including battery). The problem is the time that is required to do it right.

CMonakar

You're not the first person to say this, but keep in mind that the stock starter is connected directly to the battery by a wire that follows the same basic path as with a battery relocation without a fuse . Someone jump in and correct me if I'm wrong here.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again for that good writeup.. I used it a few months ago just changing out a few connectors. It looks really clean and battery is still reading at a good 14.2...

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

This is true. What I've always wanted to know if it is a fuseable link wire.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Damn im still undergoing my batter relocation.

Originally it was moved to the rear bin location WITHOUT a fuse but this time i cut that and put a fuse block and continued to the hatch area where the battery is gonna be located at.

I hope all goes well. Thats the last thing i want, is a damn fire.

CMonakar

I don't think so. I took apart my alternator harness. It looks like a normal 4-gauge wire. Good thought though.

I am relocating my battery while I am redoing my electrical system. I am going to upgrade that wire to a -2 and daisy chain from the battery to the starter to the fuse block. This cuts down on the amount of redundant wire compared to how most people do it. It will be a very easy route to follow because it is not much different from the stock setup.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Glad to hear that you are getting started on it.

I can give you some pointers when you get ready to relocate your battery, just give me a call.

highwayinthesky

instead of a fuse by the battery i will be using a breaker. the last thing i need is to pop a fuse and be left stranded.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing there are a few reasons for the starter being unfused.

1.) Mazda routed the wire so it's got a very very low chance of rubbing against anything and shorting out. Using a high-quality wire with nice thick insulation is a good idea as well.


2.) The extra cost of adding a big fat fuse (in both money and packaging constraints) didn't seem to outweigh the likelihood of that short length of wire being shorted somehow. I've measured 600cc motorcycle starters drawing over 80A, I wouldn't be surprised if our starter pulls over 100A.



That said, I agree that it's very important to do battery relocations the right way. Use high-quality wire, route it very far from heat and sharp corners, and put a fuse or breaker right next to the battery.


-s-

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Damn good point.