Battery relocation, trunk vs bin
#1
Battery relocation, trunk vs bin
I will be relocating my battery soon. I am just not sure if I should place it just behind the rear panel/seat or in the storage bin.
Many in the forum seem to prefer the storage bin but the distance between the two is not much. The storage bin is lower so I guess a bit better for centre of gravity.
It is just that the storage bin area looks very inconvenient in real life scenarios when you need to jump start the car. When you pull up in emergency lane no one can park on your right to help you and I don't think most cars will have such long jumper cables. Plus it's a tight fit so again if jumper cables have thick ends it won't fit in the storage bin etc.
What are your experiences? Should I relocate mine to the trunk or the storage bin?
Btw, I am thinking of buying an Odyssey PC925. Some of the issues I mentioned would not be a problem with PC680 but it goes flat too quick.
Many in the forum seem to prefer the storage bin but the distance between the two is not much. The storage bin is lower so I guess a bit better for centre of gravity.
It is just that the storage bin area looks very inconvenient in real life scenarios when you need to jump start the car. When you pull up in emergency lane no one can park on your right to help you and I don't think most cars will have such long jumper cables. Plus it's a tight fit so again if jumper cables have thick ends it won't fit in the storage bin etc.
What are your experiences? Should I relocate mine to the trunk or the storage bin?
Btw, I am thinking of buying an Odyssey PC925. Some of the issues I mentioned would not be a problem with PC680 but it goes flat too quick.
#2
Classy
iTrader: (17)
I will be relocating my battery soon. I am just not sure if I should place it just behind the rear panel/seat or in the storage bin.
Many in the forum seem to prefer the storage bin but the distance between the two is not much. The storage bin is lower so I guess a bit better for centre of gravity.
It is just that the storage bin area looks very inconvenient in real life scenarios when you need to jump start the car. When you pull up in emergency lane no one can park on your right to help you and I don't think most cars will have such long jumper cables. Plus it's a tight fit so again if jumper cables have thick ends it won't fit in the storage bin etc.
What are your experiences? Should I relocate mine to the trunk or the storage bin?
Btw, I am thinking of buying an Odyssey PC925. Some of the issues I mentioned would not be a problem with PC680 but it goes flat too quick.
Many in the forum seem to prefer the storage bin but the distance between the two is not much. The storage bin is lower so I guess a bit better for centre of gravity.
It is just that the storage bin area looks very inconvenient in real life scenarios when you need to jump start the car. When you pull up in emergency lane no one can park on your right to help you and I don't think most cars will have such long jumper cables. Plus it's a tight fit so again if jumper cables have thick ends it won't fit in the storage bin etc.
What are your experiences? Should I relocate mine to the trunk or the storage bin?
Btw, I am thinking of buying an Odyssey PC925. Some of the issues I mentioned would not be a problem with PC680 but it goes flat too quick.
Storage bin...how often do you plan on needing to jump the car?? and if you are pulling up to an emergency lane, chances are its not because of a dead battery or you'll have bigger issues to deal with than getting a jump. Carry your own cables of longer length and appropriate fit.
Storage bin for cleaner install, lower gravity and just my personal pref.
#3
dorito powered
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 2,839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the previous owner of my car put it in the rear storage area. I hate the way it looks, but it makes life easier since I don't have an Odyssey battery. Super easy to get to and change the battery, and it makes jumping other people's cars (it seems like I'm the one all my friends call for a jump) so much easier.
#4
¿¿What are pistons??
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Queens NYC
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just put a terminal in the front of the car and you can still jump the car from under the hood with the battery in the bin. Thats how I have mine done and I dont have any problems.
#5
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
I had my battery in the bin then in the hatch. But in my case I had to cause I went with jdm rear seats.
Those couple of pounds won't mean much to weight distribution cause you figure when they figured out the fd's 50/50, probably wasn't on a full tank of gas and without driver/passenger.
Those couple of pounds won't mean much to weight distribution cause you figure when they figured out the fd's 50/50, probably wasn't on a full tank of gas and without driver/passenger.
#7
Bubblicious DEF.
iTrader: (36)
i have it in the rear bins, its not that hard to jump. in real life scenarios i think its actually easier since the car jumping you doesnt have to turn around and face you... i can get jump with a car just behind me... doesnt need to be on the side.. and with the hatch open is very accessible.
Trending Topics
#9
I guess you guys are right, it's not like I will jump the car everyday.
I don't know any shops here which do corner balancing.
I'm not sure about putting the terminal in the engine bay, I don't know the pros and cons.
Eitherway I'm convinced, so I will relocate the battery to the storage bin.
I don't know any shops here which do corner balancing.
I'm not sure about putting the terminal in the engine bay, I don't know the pros and cons.
Eitherway I'm convinced, so I will relocate the battery to the storage bin.
#10
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
I guess you guys are right, it's not like I will jump the car everyday.
I don't know any shops here which do corner balancing.
I'm not sure about putting the terminal in the engine bay, I don't know the pros and cons.
Eitherway I'm convinced, so I will relocate the battery to the storage bin.
I don't know any shops here which do corner balancing.
I'm not sure about putting the terminal in the engine bay, I don't know the pros and cons.
Eitherway I'm convinced, so I will relocate the battery to the storage bin.
lol when i used to store the car most of the time during the winter months back in the day, it was a pain to get the car jumped when the battery was in the bins.
I then resulted into just buying a jumper pack (every car guy should have one anyway). It made things a lot easier although even fitting a jumper pack by the bins is a PITA too.
If i had to go back, i probably wont. Not using the hatch for a "hatch" kinda sucks. It would also suck if i had to change a flat and needed that spare (never had to *knock on wood*) and IMHO, it makes the car more "race like" lol.
I cant tell you how many times i had people comment me about the battery, just because it was in the hatch. They thought my car was pure track. When they saw the battery, they immediately asked me if i had a roll bar or was going to put one in. They thought i did that mod for better weight distribution. I told them i had no choice cause of my FMIC piping up front, and my jdm rear seat inside. I think im happy where its at.
Here is what mine looks like.
#12
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
I put it (PC680) in the trunk, because:
A. Helps rear weight
B. It's not like I carry a lot of luggage in the FD, but the bins are handy for quick detailer, oil, premix, etc.
C. I have a pig-tail connector for a battery tender, and it's a lot easier to hook up in the garage by just popping the hatch.
I actually put it in the back of the spare tire well, since the spare won't go over my brakes anyway.
A. Helps rear weight
B. It's not like I carry a lot of luggage in the FD, but the bins are handy for quick detailer, oil, premix, etc.
C. I have a pig-tail connector for a battery tender, and it's a lot easier to hook up in the garage by just popping the hatch.
I actually put it in the back of the spare tire well, since the spare won't go over my brakes anyway.
#13
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there something holding the battery down inside that box? How about a gromet on the cable where it passes through the box so vibrations don't cut through the insulation?
OP if you want to do it proper:
1) You need to have something under the battery to absorb vibrations like styrofoam, that's what comes under OEM battery trays these days. It makes the battery last longer because the vibrations will speed up the process of the lead plates breaking down as sulphur builds up on them.
2) It needs something to bolt it down for obvious safety reasons.
3) A sealed battery is better for two reasons. They don't vent fumes so they don't need to be put inside of a sealed battery box. Also they won't leak acid if they are upside down.
4) Be careful about those wires. When you run them under the car, use rubber grommets for the spots they pass through sheet metal. Otherwise after a few years you're going to get a nasty short. Also make sure the brake lines are run next to a frame rail or something sturdy like how your brake lines are. If you take a hit on the bottom of the car you don't want it to hit your battery cable.
5) If you don't have a fuse, get one. You can use 250 amp ones from the audio shops. If it's not enough, you can stack two of the fuses inside the holder. You don't want an electrical fire inside your car.
I'm not trying to be captain safety here but I always wondered what would happen if the car ended up on it's roof? Well I found out one day. Nothing happened! The battery stayed put, it didn't leak, and even though there was massive damage on the underbody the battery cable was unaffected.
This was a different car thank goodness but here are the pics of the setup:
There's a foam tray under the battery. Yeah I know the cables aren't the best. After I made the positive cable I learned that you can just go to a battery store and they will solder+crimp a connector on a cable for you and put the little heat shrink tubing over the end so it doesn't corrode. I had to redo the ground because I wasn't getting enough current so I went with a bigger cable and it helped. The battery store guys said to not use the side terminals because they add resistance. They also said to not use gold battery terminals because they are only gold plated, inside it's still just lead. So they actually add more resistance. Makes sense.
Pic of said accident:
The battery was safe! I can only imagine what that 20 lbs brick would've felt like in the back of my head if it hadn't been bolted down.
OP if you want to do it proper:
1) You need to have something under the battery to absorb vibrations like styrofoam, that's what comes under OEM battery trays these days. It makes the battery last longer because the vibrations will speed up the process of the lead plates breaking down as sulphur builds up on them.
2) It needs something to bolt it down for obvious safety reasons.
3) A sealed battery is better for two reasons. They don't vent fumes so they don't need to be put inside of a sealed battery box. Also they won't leak acid if they are upside down.
4) Be careful about those wires. When you run them under the car, use rubber grommets for the spots they pass through sheet metal. Otherwise after a few years you're going to get a nasty short. Also make sure the brake lines are run next to a frame rail or something sturdy like how your brake lines are. If you take a hit on the bottom of the car you don't want it to hit your battery cable.
5) If you don't have a fuse, get one. You can use 250 amp ones from the audio shops. If it's not enough, you can stack two of the fuses inside the holder. You don't want an electrical fire inside your car.
I'm not trying to be captain safety here but I always wondered what would happen if the car ended up on it's roof? Well I found out one day. Nothing happened! The battery stayed put, it didn't leak, and even though there was massive damage on the underbody the battery cable was unaffected.
This was a different car thank goodness but here are the pics of the setup:
There's a foam tray under the battery. Yeah I know the cables aren't the best. After I made the positive cable I learned that you can just go to a battery store and they will solder+crimp a connector on a cable for you and put the little heat shrink tubing over the end so it doesn't corrode. I had to redo the ground because I wasn't getting enough current so I went with a bigger cable and it helped. The battery store guys said to not use the side terminals because they add resistance. They also said to not use gold battery terminals because they are only gold plated, inside it's still just lead. So they actually add more resistance. Makes sense.
Pic of said accident:
The battery was safe! I can only imagine what that 20 lbs brick would've felt like in the back of my head if it hadn't been bolted down.
#16
lol when i used to store the car most of the time during the winter months back in the day, it was a pain to get the car jumped when the battery was in the bins.
I then resulted into just buying a jumper pack (every car guy should have one anyway). It made things a lot easier although even fitting a jumper pack by the bins is a PITA too.
If i had to go back, i probably wont. Not using the hatch for a "hatch" kinda sucks. It would also suck if i had to change a flat and needed that spare (never had to *knock on wood*) and IMHO, it makes the car more "race like" lol.
I then resulted into just buying a jumper pack (every car guy should have one anyway). It made things a lot easier although even fitting a jumper pack by the bins is a PITA too.
If i had to go back, i probably wont. Not using the hatch for a "hatch" kinda sucks. It would also suck if i had to change a flat and needed that spare (never had to *knock on wood*) and IMHO, it makes the car more "race like" lol.
When I spoke to Cam from Pettit, he told me this car was designed as RHD for Japan and then converted to LHD for other markets, but they kept the battery on the same side iow wrong side. So whether in the bin or in the trunk the battery should be on the right side I think.
I put it (PC680) in the trunk, because:
A. Helps rear weight
B. It's not like I carry a lot of luggage in the FD, but the bins are handy for quick detailer, oil, premix, etc.
C. I have a pig-tail connector for a battery tender, and it's a lot easier to hook up in the garage by just popping the hatch.
I actually put it in the back of the spare tire well, since the spare won't go over my brakes anyway.
A. Helps rear weight
B. It's not like I carry a lot of luggage in the FD, but the bins are handy for quick detailer, oil, premix, etc.
C. I have a pig-tail connector for a battery tender, and it's a lot easier to hook up in the garage by just popping the hatch.
I actually put it in the back of the spare tire well, since the spare won't go over my brakes anyway.
#18
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
My optima has 15x the vibration resistance compared to standard batteries.
That corrugated plastic wrap my positive cable is in, that's supposed to be a grommet but I guess over time moved out of the hole like a snake. Ill remember to resleeve that cable better.
This mod was done in early 07. I havent had problems.
To OP, yes the box is huge. When I bought it it said for mustang but I thought a box is a box and when I got it, I didn't want to return it so I just used it.lol
#19
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well hopefully you never have to test that. I agree it's a very small possibility of happening. And at least it's an Optima so it won't spray you with acid or anything crazy like that. But on the other hand it doesn't cost very much to install a proper bolt down kit. Just some threaded rod, a couple washers and nuts, and the hold down piece on top. The foam could come out of the packing that comes from a TV. The fuse might be a little more expensive, $40.
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (14)
Here is a picture of my install:
I think it looks very clean. (Full write up is here.)
I don't understand the need to run jumper cables to the bins. When jump starting, the current needs to get to the starter so attaching the positive cable in the engine bay makes more sense. I attach the positive cable to the line running to the fuse box (see below). The negative cable can me clamped to any metal chassis contact point in the engine bay.
I think it looks very clean. (Full write up is here.)
I don't understand the need to run jumper cables to the bins. When jump starting, the current needs to get to the starter so attaching the positive cable in the engine bay makes more sense. I attach the positive cable to the line running to the fuse box (see below). The negative cable can me clamped to any metal chassis contact point in the engine bay.
#21
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
iTrader: (13)
I don't understand the need to run jumper cables to the bins. When jump starting, the current needs to get to the starter so attaching the positive cable in the engine bay makes more sense. I attach the positive cable to the line running to the fuse box (see below). The negative cable can me clamped to any metal chassis contact point in the engine bay.]
Only reason you should jump from the battery in the bin is if you relocated all these fuse boxes inside the car like some of you have been doing.
#24
White chicks > *
iTrader: (33)
Well hopefully you never have to test that. I agree it's a very small possibility of happening. And at least it's an Optima so it won't spray you with acid or anything crazy like that. But on the other hand it doesn't cost very much to install a proper bolt down kit. Just some threaded rod, a couple washers and nuts, and the hold down piece on top. The foam could come out of the packing that comes from a TV. The fuse might be a little more expensive, $40.
I said in another thread that i hate FD downtime since this is only a weekend car. So driving the FD on the weekend is basically one of the things i look foward to when the weekend comes. Since i HAD a boring daily driver.
But im picking up a GTO in the next 2 weeks so now FINALLY i can start doing the things i wanted to do to the FD. Because even if there is some FD downtime, i have another car i can enjoy while i do it
But yeah when i did the batt rel. to the hatch, it was a quick job i did on a nice spring morning, just to get the job done and continue to have the car drivable.
I then got lazy from then til now and never got back to it lol. Trust me there are A LOT of little things i need to attend to that i always wanted to attend. Now im finally gonna attend to them.
#25
Planning my come back
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had it in the truck in my last FD and my current one is in the rear bin. I dislike the bin because it is a small battery and can't do much without draining the battery quickly. I like to use my storage bins to store basic tools, oil and rags/shop towels then the other one for car cleaning supplies.